Craftsman snowblower

@Donald sorry no one is answering your question!

A trick that I learned last year from a neighbor who repairs mowers in his spare time. He told me alot but not all carb jets have a tiny starting jet. He uses a welder tip cleaning tool. I useda tiny paperclip as they can get build up. Gaskets get hard and go bad. Then there's the float bowl which can gunk up and not move freely.
We use the wire from twist-ties for small engines.

This was from a Honda EU2000i generator my nephew left gas in for a year or two. We cleaned the jets and then put everything in an ultrasonic cleaner.

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I just had the same thing happen to a FREE Craftsman snowblower that my daughter received. The gas was old and the engine wouldn't start even with the electric starter. I changed out the old gas and put in new gas and it runs like a champ. I posted in this thread:
 
Just a wild guess, posible gumbed up and stuck shut needle valve. If that is the case, a few inches of fuel pressure may not be enough to get it to open.

A higher colum of liquid might break to loose, or connecting a hose with a squeeze bulb. To initially break it loose you need a few pounds of pressure, not a few inches of pressure.
 
@Donald sorry no one is answering your question!

We use the wire from twist-ties for small engines.

This was from a Honda EU2000i generator my nephew left gas in for a year or two. We cleaned the jets and then put everything in an ultrasonic cleaner.

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Many times I have encountered a corroded and pitted hinge pin for the float on those carbs resulting in a stuck float. It results in either in flooding gas or no gas at all depending where the float sticks. Before I dig in, I would try tapping the bowl with something.
 
Yeah you might not need to completely remove the carb if you can just get the float bowl off the bottom. Fiddle with the float and its hinge pin, blast upwards through the main jet with carb or brake cleaner. Reassemble, use a little starting fluid, she'll come to life. Might surge for a while since you didn't clean the idle passage but it'll move snow. Your carb bowl will look like @Ranger83 picture but you can wipe that out.
 
Yeah you might not need to completely remove the carb if you can just get the float bowl off the bottom. Fiddle with the float and its hinge pin, blast upwards through the main jet with carb or brake cleaner. Reassemble, use a little starting fluid, she'll come to life. Might surge for a while since you didn't clean the idle passage but it'll move snow. Your carb bowl will look like @Ranger83 picture but you can wipe that out.
The fuel bowl was pretty clean. Nothing like @Ranger83's fuel bowl. Just a tiny about of crud at the bottom that I wiped out.
 
Just a WAG, but I was given one of these to me free by my old manager last year. It had been to a repair shop and they never did figure it out. I ordered a Chinese carb and everything, still hardly any go. I found the actual fuel tank was plugged up. I had to rig up a conglomeration to get the tank cleared up. It would get just enough gas into the carb to make things look normal, but it wasn't until the tank was cleaned that I got it going.

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Cleaned fuel tank, new fuel line, new carb, and a new pull string, oil change, and it was ready to go to a new home.
 
Many times I have encountered a corroded and pitted hinge pin for the float on those carbs resulting in a stuck float. It results in either in flooding gas or no gas at all depending where the float sticks. Before I dig in, I would try tapping the bowl with something.
Everyone is postulating about what might be wrong with the carb.

What he asked was how to get access.
 
Everyone is postulating about what might be wrong with the carb.

What he asked was how to get access.

Reading fully hasn't been my strongest point...

If I remember correctly there was just a handful of 3/8 (or 10mm) headed screws that held that plastic on there, but it interlocked in with the tank plastic bracket I want to say?
 
Everyone is postulating about what might be wrong with the carb.

What he asked was how to get access.
I would like the carb and all it's glory to be hanging it all out. I don't need a shroud to make it pretty. Shroud around muffler to prevent burned fingers I am OK with.

Safety shroud yes, make-pretty shroud no.

Took of the cover for the belts to get access to a bolt and mouse nest under the cover.
 
I would like the carb and all it's glory to be hanging it all out. I don't need a shroud to make it pretty. Shroud around muffler to prevent burned fingers I am OK with.

Safety shroud yes, make-pretty shroud no.

Took of the cover for the belts to get access to a bolt and mouse nest under the cover.

I wouldn't assume that the shroud is there to make it look pretty-- here's why:

The reason I no longer have my Craftsman is because I bought a snowblower implement for my walk-behind BCS tractor that I use for my hay farming:


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One problem that many have experienced with this setup is that because the carb is relatively exposed on these tractors (i.e., "hanging all out" as you described it).

The result of that exposure is that if there is any wind at all while clearing snow, there is a tendency for wind-blown snow to cause big problems with that exposed carburetor, including stuck governors and throttle linkages. That renders the tractor useless in surprisingly short order.

To deal with that problem, many have taken to fabricating shrouds specifically to protect the engine from this problem. Here is a screenshot from a video:

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And here is a link to that video:



Note that in the video, he specifically compares the shroud he is building to the shroud on his snowblower, trying to replicate that functionality.

In effect, what you describe is sort of the opposite-- you're looking to remove the existing shroud and the carb protection it provides.

So, while removing the shroud might work out, just be aware that doing so might also cause more problems than it solves.
 
Saying it's a "Craftsman snow blower" means nothing. Who made the engine? It looks like the Briggs OHV that is loosely based on a Honda design. I have a similar engine on a log splitter.

Fuel should continue to flow out as long as the bowl bolt is removed. If it does not, the input to the carb is blocked, usually because the needle valve and/or float is stuck. Remove the bowl and these can be worked on. The needle presses against a rubber seat which can degrade and swell and obstruct the fuel flow. If you have the needle all the way out and it still won't flow, check that.

Note that the jet is part of the bowl bolt. Unlikely you will have to poke it with a wire since both sides can be reached with spray cleaner.

The shroud wraps all the way around to the side of the gas tank. I think you may also have to remove a bolt that is close to if not underneath the metal flywheel cover that holds the pull starter. Removing that cover is recommended pre-season maintenance because there is almost always a mouse nest in there.
 
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Been having nothing but problems with my new $1400 2 stage HD Toro with cheap Chinese engine and carb. Never ever had an issue with my Tecumseh S-K over 27 years. The new Toro have a tiny "inaccessible" fuel filter in the gas tank outlet (dealer said no filter - morons!) Got a new carb from TORO and it was defective!

So check for good fuel flow from the tank. I would remove the tank and flush and dump it. Add a medium small automotive style in-line filter.
Also The air passageway drills for the emulsion jet in the carb are tiny and can get plugged with grime from the outside.

Some pretty good pro repair guy from Canada has a YT site, he mention some foaming spray cleaner that can work miracles I do not recall what it was.
 
You need to:

1) disconnect the primer hose from the bulb
2) disconnect the leads from the back of the key
3) remove the choke knob (pull straight off)
4) remove the throttle lever cap (pull straight off)

This will allow the shroud to come off pulling towards the rear of the machine. To get the carb off the mounting bolts you may have to loosen a handle bolt or two to flex the handle rearward to allow clearance.
You must be a lot stronger that this 71 year old. Neither #3 or #4 pulled straight off. Pry off or bang off with a screwdriver.

Neither are going back on until I am 100% sure everything is working.
 
Been having nothing but problems with my new $1400 2 stage HD Toro with cheap Chinese engine and carb. Never ever had an issue with my Tecumseh S-K over 27 years. The new Toro have a tiny "inaccessible" fuel filter in the gas tank outlet (dealer said no filter - morons!) Got a new carb from TORO and it was defective!
It's no wonder people are getting away from gasoline powered equipment; I would too if I had to deal with this stupidity.
 
Did we ever just trickle some fuel down the cylinder to see if it would fire ya know sometimes that's all it takes.
 
So I was able to get the shroud off. And the carb off. Pulled the jet and soaked it a cap of SeaFoam. Carb went into the heated ultrasonic cleaner. Poked the jet with the inside wire of a twistie several times. (Those are getting rare).

Back together and running it to warm it up (and annoy my annoying neighbor).

Garage is cold and the 8' fluorescent lights are flickering waiting for new LED bulbs on order. So not a great working place.
 
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