CR-V Owners (and others too) - Need advice

[glennc]

Hello folks! We just bought a nice clean first-generation Honda CR-V over the weekend. With 105k on the clock, and having actually been owned by a little old lady, I'd say it's barely broken-in, and it appears to be mechanically very good and I'm looking forward to very likely 100k+ miles of driving it. It will replace my wife's Infiniti I-30 and I will continue to drive my wonderful E30 325i. The CR-V will probably be used for most of our family trips.

I'm looking for advice on oil choice and also other fluids, and of course if anybody has any miscellaneous CR-V insights to share I'd be happy to hear them. I'd like to consider using oils that would improve efficiency compared to a standard 5W-30, and I'm also wondering what people recommend for diff/trans fluids in these. It's an awd auto. Could I assume that I could get a noticeable improvement in efficiency by changing all fluids with efficiency in mind, or are the Honda fluids about as good as it gets?

We did a couple hundred miles through the mountains yesterday and got 27.7mpg.

Thanks to everybody in advance.

 

[glennc]

Oh I forgot to mention that we will put a hitch on it and will probably spend a good bit of time towing a trailer (~1000lb total) through the mountains in hot weather with the car fully loaded, at times also with a canoe on the roof. I would say a good margin of safety on fluid choices would be a good idea.

 

[peking]

I would use any 5W-20 synthetic for the oil, if you're planning on towing. I like buy whatever is free or 0.99 cents after rebate. ATF, I like to stick with Honda. I tried Amsoil before and for some reason it hesitated when the fluid was cold. After that, I drained it out and switch back to Honda. Also, had good luck with Maxlife ATF with my older Hondas. Any long life coolant that's compatible. Sorry, diff fluid, never had a AWD Honda.

 

[ericthepig]

I know there's a PP following here on BITOG, and I didn't think I'd ever join it, and I don't have any hard data of my own yet - but PP 5w20 is doing very nicely so far in my 98 Sienna. The oil is still fairly clean at 3k (I know that doesn't mean anything - but just fyi), consumption is as low as it's been since I've been recording it on this van. I don't think it sounds any smoother or quieter than with M1 and Schaeffers, but it sounds very nice.

Good luck!

 

[ericthepig]

I have M1 ATF in my trans (been draining and putting 3 qts in for the last four years). Also M1 ATF in my diff. If I had it all to do again I'd likely use Schaeffers ATF - supposedly great stuff - that's an area of expertise for them.

 

[FZ1]

Drain and fill the radiator with Honda coolant. Drain and fill the transmission fluid using only Honda brand fluid. Use the factory spec oil weight. If you want thin,then use M1. Don't push the ocis.

 

[datsago]

My brother has one of these first generations CR-Vs. Nice, but he had multiple problems with the transmission (manual) and AC. Manual transmission failed at 106K miles, and then the AC. American Honda service (local corporate office) made a deal to fix the AC since it failed so soon, but they never got it right. Still kept failing, and he's given up on fixing it even though he still drives it. Interestingly, when he brought it into the local dealer (at the request of American Honda), the local dealer stated he had never seen a manual transmission CR-V, only automatics.

 

[ericthepig]

"We just bought a nice clean first-generation Honda CR-V over the weekend. With 105k on the clock"

"My brother has one of these first generations CR-Vs.... transmission failed at 106K miles"

Ooooohh.

 

[glennc]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Drain and fill the radiator with Honda coolant. Drain and fill the transmission fluid using only Honda brand fluid. Use the factory spec oil weight. If you want thin,then use M1. Don't push the ocis.

FZ1 thanks for the reply, and everybody else as well.

This is the sort of stuff I need to learn more about for this car.

Why do you say to use only the Honda trans fluid? And why not use thinner oil or longer OCIs?

I appreciate the advice - looking for the rationale.

 

[FZ1]

The Honda trans can have shift problems with other brands of ATF. I prefer to use the oem spec oil weight,so,if your spec is 5-30, use 5-30. Your use would fall into the severe service category which,at least on my '02 Honda, is 3750 or 6m ocis per the manual. I would think that "harder" use would shorten the life of the oil.

 

[cordeen]

Amsoil Universal ATF specifically states on every container that it is NOT to be used in Honda CR-V transmissions.

 

[glennc]

Originally Posted By: cordeen
Amsoil Universal ATF specifically states on every container that it is NOT to be used in Honda CR-V transmissions.

WOW - that is truly interesting. Do they have another ATF that they spec for CR-Vs?

FZ1 - thanks for the clarification.

 

[rcy]

CR-V forums

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/forumdisplay.php?f=3

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/

 

[ajchien]

Agree with above. Check out the CRV forums.

Gen 1 CRV have had issues with exhaust valves tightening, so many recommend valve adjustments around 30K miles. Also the rear differential fluid should be changed at more frequent intervals such as 30k miles. Oh yeah, you might consider doing the timing belt soon.

I'd stick with standard Honda fluids for the rear diff (dual pump fluid) and transmission (ATF-Z1). I persoanlly stick with Honda coolant too, but many use any non-silicate type made for alum engines which seem to do fine. Motor oil is any API certified oil.

 

[cordeen]

Originally Posted By: glennc
Originally Posted By: cordeen
Amsoil Universal ATF specifically states on every container that it is NOT to be used in Honda CR-V transmissions.

WOW - that is truly interesting. Do they have another ATF that they spec for CR-Vs?

FZ1 - thanks for the clarification.


Amsoil does not have one for this tranny but their Universal ATF works fine in other Honda models.

 

[posty]

Originally Posted By: ajchien
Agree with above. Check out the CRV forums.

Gen 1 CRV have had issues with exhaust valves tightening, so many recommend valve adjustments around 30K miles. Also the rear differential fluid should be changed at more frequent intervals such as 30k miles. Oh yeah, you might consider doing the timing belt soon.

I'd stick with standard Honda fluids for the rear diff (dual pump fluid) and transmission (ATF-Z1). I persoanlly stick with Honda coolant too, but many use any non-silicate type made for alum engines which seem to do fine. Motor oil is any API certified oil.


agree with above ---check those valves ASAP! a visit to hondasuv is a must

 

[tropic]

Originally Posted By: ajchien
...the rear differential fluid should be changed at more frequent intervals... stick with standard Honda fluids for the rear diff (dual pump fluid) and transmission (ATF-Z1)....

That's good advice there. My brother learned the hard way.

 

[PT1]

Ran the 2002 CRV on PP 5w20 5000 OCI and it loved it. Wix napa gold filter. Z-1 trans drain-fill every 15k. Dual pump diff drain fill every 25k. No issues.

 

[glennc]

It sounds like these fluids - diff and trans - really are something special. Anybody know why? I'm always skeptical when they say you have to use their stuff.

Thanks also for the advice on the forums. I will definitely check them out, but BITOG advice is often on a higher level so I've asked here first.

My #1 longevity concern is probably the trans because I'm confident the engine will last. I don't mind checking valves, I'm used to it.

Timing belt was apparently taken care of just before 90k.

Thanks again for the feedback so far and keep it coming!

I've admired the 1st-gen CR-V since they came out. For some reason the follow-up models didn't have the same appeal for me. I like the basic simplicity of the design. There's so much room around the engine you can just about reach in and give it a big bear hug if you want. Like a '70's Volvo, but newer and mostly better.

 

[Audi Junkie]

We've had a G-1 CRV for 3 years now. 132k and everything works (knock on wood). I've used most every ATF in it, inc ATF+4 and I believe there is not much difference. The best improvments were with Auto-Rx. As for service technique, I'd flush it a few times with cheap Dex to clear it out and then start with your selected fluid and/or ARX. These guys who run 20 quarts all at once of top-notch ATF to flush it I think it's a waste. Better to use the cheap stuff to displace the old and at least drive on it a few months to clear the parts a bit.

Now I'm doing once a year 3q drains with Castrol HM ATF and the trans is happy. As for AMSoil Universal, I don't think I ever saw such a warning about CRV, maybe CVTs.

Don't forget now, there is a new fluid for the rear diff, DPF-II or Dual-Pump Fluid Two. It takes like 1.1 quarts, ugh. I posted the part number here somewhere. I'd do it twice, once and again is a year or two.

As for coolant, G-05 in mine. I flush it good and started with a 1/2 gallon dilluted down. Two years later I freshened it by just draining the radiator and refilling with the rest. I suppose Peak Global is a good choice.

I finally did the valve adjust, not too hard. A how-to is posted here too.

We get 25 mpg and are pretty happy with that since it's EPA and we drive briskly. Oversized the tires to 215/70-15 from 205/70.

As for oil, anything goes. Ours ses a lot of Havoline, but now will be going to a bunch of $.01c Pennzoil SUV Blend 5w-30 after I clean up some leftover odd oils like DuraBlend 5w-20.

Again Auto-Rx is your friend. I can use it to turn discount plain oil into good Hi-Mi oil with the maintenance dose.

I do a lot of under body rust proofing. I use all old cans of spray paint up to cover-up, it looks like a rainbow under there....the dealership guys must wonder.

These are the PO's pics at 85k...