Couple of Glock armorers at work

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Mystic

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Where I work there are now a couple of Glock armorers. One guy recommends Hoppes gun oil for Glocks and the other guy recommends Breakfree. The guy who recommends Breakfree says that I will get a different answer from everybody about what lubricating oil to use.

He said to be sure to use an oil that is actually recommended for guns. He said this after a guy said that he uses some kind of grease used in the automotive field.

The guy who recommends Breakfree likes Glocks and is a Glock armorer but he really likes the new S&W M&P. He says that there is stainless steel in the frame that prevents the frame from flexing too much during shooting.
 
My Glock 19 gets cleaned with soap and warm water (no joke). Once dry, I use a couple drops of whatever gun oil I've got on hand, usually Remington. No problems with this method in the 15 years I've owned the Glock.
 
Just keep it clean and lubed, the specific oil you choose isn't that critical on a common handgun such as your G19. Now if you if you were putting 1,000+ rounds a month through that gun I'd say to use SLIP2000 gun lube.
 
I've used WD-40, Hoppes, a few different oils from gun shows, 3-in-1, ATF/MMO mix, Military surplus weapons oil, Rem-Oil, Birchwood Casey, and Breakfree CLP. I've had the best results with Breakfree. I'd always seen it, but never thought much about using it until I spoke with some gunsmiths and watched the AGI Gunsmithing and Armorer's DVD courses. Almost every gunsmith used Breakfree and the couple who didn't used Birchwood casey. If I had to rate them in order by overall effectiveness, I'd say:
Breakfree
Birchwood
ATF/MMO
Rem-Oil
Hoppes
Military Surplus
3-in-1
WD-40

These were used on:
Mossberg 500 12ga.
Remington 870 Wingmaster 12ga.
Sears (Savage) single shot 20ga.
Winchester Model 70 .30-'06
Ruger 10/22 Carbine .22
Ruger Mark 2 Target .22
Springfield Armory 1911 Mil-Spec .45ACP
Misc. other guns
 
I will say that Breakfree and Birchwood Casey gun oils really worked well with my Glock. The one strange thing with Breakfree was that tiny pieces of shell casing were visible in the oil left on the gun. I don't know why that was-could the Breakfree have better solvency?

I am tired of trying all kinds of different stuff. The Breakfree is appealing because I could use it to clean and lube the gun except for maybe the bore of the barrel where I like Hoppes Elite or Hoppes No. 9.

Speaking of Hoppes I can no longer find regular Hoppes gun oil anywhere. I don't know if it has been discontinued or if people just really buy it up fast. At WalMart they have Hoppes Elite gun cleaner, Hoppes Elite gun oil, and Hoppes No. 9.

Birchwood Casey gun oil is nice. And you can get it in a container which has a tiny spout on it. The Breakfree can take higher temperatures however.

I have to agree with you greenaccord02 that I would put Birchwood Casey and Breakfree at the top of the list-my Glock did well with both. But like I said I wonder about the little pieces of shell casing in the Breakfree.

I had WeaponShield on my gun for several weeks because I was not able to go shooting due to the weather conditions and of course work. It seemed to cause some corrosion sitting on the gun so long and I cleaned that stuff off. I kind of lost my respect for the WeapnShield.

Does anybody know why Breakfree seems to wind up with little pieces of shell casing in the oil after shooting? Is it a good thing (maybe indicating that the oil has really good solvency or whatever) or a bad thing?

I discovered when I bought my conversion kit (so that I can shoot .22 long rifle rounds in my Glock) that Breakfree was included. So the people who make the conversion kit believe in Breakfree.

A Glock requires little lubrication so in the case of the Glock I thing a good oil is perhaps best, although you can argue for various gun greases as well. Grease or a lot of oil might be better for the Sig.
 
I also have seen the little bits of burned powder and casing that show up after applying breakfree. The only thing I can figure is it's so thin that it's penetrating into corners and crevasses, dissolving old oil residue and freeing up the bits of trash.

On the semiauto pistols, it's never a bad idea to apply a *little* grease to the rails. I'm still trying to find the perfect grease.
 
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Maybe I was too hard on Breakfree and it is actually a good thing that it traps those little bits of casings.

I do like to put a little grease (like Tetra) on the contact points of a Glock. Those contact points are not replaceable and if they do wear badly the entire frame of the gun would have to be replaced. So I think I will continue to do that.

I want to make things simple so I think I will start to use Breakfree on the Glock. Everybody seems to agree that Breakfree is good. The Breakfree can be used to clean the gun as well as lube it (although I like Hoppes Elite gun cleaner for the bore) and I will use up the other oil and grease lubricating my Sig and other guns.
 
Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
My Glock 19 gets cleaned with soap and warm water (no joke).


As does my 17. Hot water and an oversized phosphor bronze bore brush gets my barrel spotless in seconds. I use a toothbrush under hot running water for the rest of the fully disassembled gun.

I've been using Amsoil HD moly fortified grease to lube my slide, locking block, connector, and the exterior of my barrel. The bore gets a coat of Mobil 1 from a cotton patch on a brass jag once it's dry, then I use a cotton swab to remove any oils from the chamber before reassembly.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
My Glock 19 gets cleaned with soap and warm water (no joke).


As does my 17. Hot water and an oversized phosphor bronze bore brush gets my barrel spotless in seconds. I use a toothbrush under hot running water for the rest of the fully disassembled gun.


Another vote for soap and hot water, although I use a plastic brush. Been doing that since I bought the gun back in....92 I think. The body it self I use...Mil 7 pro...or something like that...cant think of the name right now. When I do a complete disassembly, I use soap and H2O.


Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
[I've been using Amsoil HD moly fortified grease to lube my slide, locking block, connector, and the exterior of my barrel. The bore gets a coat of Mobil 1 from a cotton patch on a brass jag once it's dry, then I use a cotton swab to remove any oils from the chamber before reassembly.


I use my Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 on all my arms. Speciality gun oil is a rip off.
 
I use Weapon Shield because it makes cleaning easy. The EP package is nice to have as well. I've had no rust problems.

Mystic, can you post pictures of the corrosion that occurred on your gun?
 
About 2 weeks ago, I picked up my new Glock 21. When I took it apart to clean the barrel, I noticed what looked like copper based anti-seize on the lube points of the frame. While reading the instructions, it said not to remove this lubricant. Just an observation.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
My Glock 19 gets cleaned with soap and warm water (no joke).


As does my 17. Hot water and an oversized phosphor bronze bore brush gets my barrel spotless in seconds. I use a toothbrush under hot running water for the rest of the fully disassembled gun.


"Fully disassembled" means field-stripped or do you mean "detail stripped," i.e., the firing pin is removed from the firing pin channel, as is the firing pin saftey, the extractor plunger and extractor, etc?

And you don't believe water gets in behind the firing pin safety and into the firing pin channel? Oh, that's right! That's not a firing pin hole in the face of the breech, that's a weep hole!
 
I was able to clean it off. It was corrosion that was just getting started on metal parts of the gun where the lube had been. I did some serious cleaning with Hoppes Elite gun cleaner.
 
green,

It is a special break-in lube. If I recall from my armorer's class, it's a GM special grease that will "take care of itself" after 50 - 200 rounds of firing.
 
For long-term storage, I've used a thin coat of pure silicone wiped on my guns and knives for several years. Practically stays good forever, just clean it off and oil the gun before use. My father has been doing it since the late '70s without issue. I don't know where you're going to get a jar of silicone these days, but that's a proven idea for long term (multiple year) storage.
 
That's one of the great things about Glock pistols, you can use just about anything to clean and lube them and they'll work just fine. I've been a Glock Armorer for several years and I use the often cussed WD-40 to clean with and am presently using an ATF/STP/MMO mix to lube with. I've used regular motor oil, synthetic motor oil and some of each with STP when a little extra slick viscosity is wanted, I've even used just STP to slick up the rails with and I've also just used a little Gibbs one time, which is ultra thin but it worked well too...probably be very good for real cold temps....thing is, even a dry Glock will run well for many rds if it's clean and, it will run dirty if it's lubed. I think break free is fine to use but as was already said, most gun oils are just marketing...why pay so much for so little when something you've already got sitting in the garage will work just as well...especially on a Glock. The factory copper colored lube is just an anti seize put there for it's staying power to have a lubed pistol as it arrives to the first owner...it's recommended to let it wear itself off with the course of normal cleaning and oiling....yep, gotta love the easy maintenance of a Glock, wish all my guns were that easy to take care of.
 
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
My Glock 19 gets cleaned with soap and warm water (no joke).


As does my 17. Hot water and an oversized phosphor bronze bore brush gets my barrel spotless in seconds. I use a toothbrush under hot running water for the rest of the fully disassembled gun.


"Fully disassembled" means field-stripped or do you mean "detail stripped," i.e., the firing pin is removed from the firing pin channel, as is the firing pin saftey, the extractor plunger and extractor, etc?

And you don't believe water gets in behind the firing pin safety and into the firing pin channel? Oh, that's right! That's not a firing pin hole in the face of the breech, that's a weep hole!


Fully disassembled means fully disassembled, as in every part (except for the magazine release and sights) removed from the gun. AKA detail stripped.
 
Originally Posted By: 1WildPig
That's one of the great things about Glock pistols, you can use just about anything to clean and lube them and they'll work just fine. I've been a Glock Armorer for several years and I use the often cussed WD-40 to clean with and am presently using an ATF/STP/MMO mix to lube with. I've used regular motor oil, synthetic motor oil and some of each with STP when a little extra slick viscosity is wanted, I've even used just STP to slick up the rails with and I've also just used a little Gibbs one time, which is ultra thin but it worked well too...probably be very good for real cold temps....thing is, even a dry Glock will run well for many rds if it's clean and, it will run dirty if it's lubed. I think break free is fine to use but as was already said, most gun oils are just marketing...why pay so much for so little when something you've already got sitting in the garage will work just as well...especially on a Glock. The factory copper colored lube is just an anti seize put there for it's staying power to have a lubed pistol as it arrives to the first owner...it's recommended to let it wear itself off with the course of normal cleaning and oiling....yep, gotta love the easy maintenance of a Glock, wish all my guns were that easy to take care of.


How are you liking the MMO/STP/ATF mix? I need to add a little of my STP Racer's Edge to mine... ZDDP never hurt anything!
 
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