Could Redline affect my seals (Nissan Titan)
- Thread starter titantruck
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Wow, thanks for all the responses. I think I will go with Royal Purple, I guess I just have confidence in it.
I also have full confidence in my Dana 44's, I got Royal Purple 75W 140 in the rear and I have no doubts that it will last as long as I own the truck with no problems. I think most who have problems have not broken the gears in properly and are to proud to admit it. I followed the owners manual to a T and have full confidence the gears hardend properly and are solid...But if it blows, I'll be the first to post about it.
I also have full confidence in my Dana 44's, I got Royal Purple 75W 140 in the rear and I have no doubts that it will last as long as I own the truck with no problems. I think most who have problems have not broken the gears in properly and are to proud to admit it. I followed the owners manual to a T and have full confidence the gears hardend properly and are solid...But if it blows, I'll be the first to post about it.
titantruck:
I think I'll chime in here. I'm on my second Titan...I own a 2006 SE KC 4x2. I previously owned (traded in for the 2006 at 9900 miles) a 2005 LE KC 4x4...and it had many, many issues with the engine, fuel system, brakes, etc. You can read the ghastly (long) thread if you wish.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003286
Anyway, IMHO as far as oil and some experience with the Titan, just use regular dino-oil (Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme, Havoline--5W30) and a Nissan oil filter (Purolator Pure One, Napa Gold are fine too), change oil/filter at 3k to 5k intervals, and you will be fine...why?
1) Cost
2) No "seal" issue
3) Warranty (I assume your truck is still under warranty)
Well, at the risk of getting seriously flamed (folks, please don't flame me, this is just my opinion), the Nissan manual says:
ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER RECOMMENDATION
Selecting the correct oil... NISSAN recommends mineral based oils.
I interpret "recommends" as "prefers". But if they recommend it, it's for a reason, and that's what I'm using after my fiasco. I will use 5W30 Castrol GTX and a Nissan filter for my first change at 1k (currently ~897 miles), and for all subsequent changes. I am NOT saying synthetic oil caused my engine issues, just stating my opinion.
Now, I'm not saying synthetic will "void" your warranty...it won't. But why spend extra money if you are going to do short OCI's...waste of cash in my book. As Bill in Utah put it in a previous thread:
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One more point not related to engine oil...
Dark Jedi wrote:
Dump that rear oil immediately...I changed mine on the 2005 at ~3000 miles, and it looked terrible, with alot of metal. I used Valvoline synthetic 75W-140. Get a drain pan and 3/8" drive ratchet. Piece of cake to do and only takes a few minutes. You do NOT have to remove the rear cover. Drain plug on bottom, fill plug on top. You will need 3 quarts...2 full ones, and ~4 ozs. out of the third.
The manual calls for 68 ozs, mine took just about that. This really is a must do even with only a few hundred miles on a new Titan. For some reason Nissan is famous for sending these trucks out with low diff. fluid levels, and that's certainly not a good thing.
Please change this fluid ASAP if you haven't already. I am even changing my 2006 diff. fluid when I change my oil.
Sorry mods, slightly
I think I'll chime in here. I'm on my second Titan...I own a 2006 SE KC 4x2. I previously owned (traded in for the 2006 at 9900 miles) a 2005 LE KC 4x4...and it had many, many issues with the engine, fuel system, brakes, etc. You can read the ghastly (long) thread if you wish.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003286
Anyway, IMHO as far as oil and some experience with the Titan, just use regular dino-oil (Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme, Havoline--5W30) and a Nissan oil filter (Purolator Pure One, Napa Gold are fine too), change oil/filter at 3k to 5k intervals, and you will be fine...why?
1) Cost
2) No "seal" issue
3) Warranty (I assume your truck is still under warranty)
Well, at the risk of getting seriously flamed (folks, please don't flame me, this is just my opinion), the Nissan manual says:
ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER RECOMMENDATION
Selecting the correct oil... NISSAN recommends mineral based oils.
I interpret "recommends" as "prefers". But if they recommend it, it's for a reason, and that's what I'm using after my fiasco. I will use 5W30 Castrol GTX and a Nissan filter for my first change at 1k (currently ~897 miles), and for all subsequent changes. I am NOT saying synthetic oil caused my engine issues, just stating my opinion.
Now, I'm not saying synthetic will "void" your warranty...it won't. But why spend extra money if you are going to do short OCI's...waste of cash in my book. As Bill in Utah put it in a previous thread:
I think that sums it up
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One more point not related to engine oil...
Dark Jedi wrote:
There has been some rear end failures on some Titan's...part of it was the gear oil was too thin in all 2004's, and early 2005 Titan's (75W90).
Dump that rear oil immediately...I changed mine on the 2005 at ~3000 miles, and it looked terrible, with alot of metal. I used Valvoline synthetic 75W-140. Get a drain pan and 3/8" drive ratchet. Piece of cake to do and only takes a few minutes. You do NOT have to remove the rear cover. Drain plug on bottom, fill plug on top. You will need 3 quarts...2 full ones, and ~4 ozs. out of the third.
The manual calls for 68 ozs, mine took just about that. This really is a must do even with only a few hundred miles on a new Titan. For some reason Nissan is famous for sending these trucks out with low diff. fluid levels, and that's certainly not a good thing.
Please change this fluid ASAP if you haven't already. I am even changing my 2006 diff. fluid when I change my oil.
Sorry mods, slightly
I have a 2004 Titan and use Delvac-1 5W-40 in summer and M-1 5w-30EP in winter. I am happy with the UOA's; I am just throwing out another option to consider... I am somewhat concerned about the rear end and will be switching to a larger capacity cover for insurance (I am going with the Mag-Hytec brand, but PML has a good rep. also)... You should have a 2005 rear-end cover with somewhat better capacity already, so it may be overkill... My rear end oil was also low from the start, but I replaced it within 500 mi., so I am not too concerned.
titantruck, I also live in VA. I use Amsoil Series 2000 0W30. I have a 2k4 Titan LE. I used Mobil 1 5W-30 for the first year and the Amsoil from then on. I noticed an average of 1 mile per gallon increase with the Amsoil. I've been using it since 94. Personally, I wouldn't use RP for the price and it's UOA's. RL, Amsoil and M1 are superior oils if you plan on extended drain intervals. I use 10k drain intervals. I have been using the M1-110 filter, but they are always too difficult to find. I will be switching to the Amsoil EA line next oil change which is 5k away.
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