Cost of a new central air system

Mitsubishi heat pump. Its working great in Vermont for both heat and cooling. Keeps putting out heat down to zero degrees and below, and cools well too. Our central air is now just sitting, unused, and our oil boiler is back up for when it gets below zero or during power failures.
 
4K for the Carrier I just got. 7500$ counting the Carrier furnace.
Thermostat on 70 degrees will give you frostbite 🥶.
My previous no name unit would be set on 67, and was just acceptable.
I’m saving about 50$ a month on utilities, system is paying for itself.
Replace both at same time, if you are able.
My previous system setup was the original in the home, 13 year old system
I’ll see what the estimates are between the heat pumps and regular ac units. I’m planning on staying for another 2-3 years, so it might not be worth it, but my heating bills are killing me in winter...if I can save a couple hundred a month it might make me want to stay longer. Last winter I was paying close to $900 dollars a month on oil! And my heat is only set to 63. And in summer my AC is only set to 74 and those AC compressors were running all day. Be curious to see what new efficient units can do. I think my state offers interest free loans for up to $15,000 for new units too. That’ll help.
 
My mom just got what I think is absolutely hosed replacing a 10 year old system in her 1,700 SF house. American Standard, 80% furnace, new AC, 4” thicker filter, humidifier and thermostat for $14,000. She didn’t shop around and didn’t even need the thing. The company she uses for semi-annual cleaning and checkups commented about how something was looking dirty and refrigerant prices and blah blah blah she had a new system the next day. She’s happy so I’m not going to rain on her parade.

@doublebase - how old is your home and how’s the insulation? That oil use appears high for setting it to 63, but I’m not in oil country.
 
I had to have new units installed 5 years ago. The original system used the old refrigerant so the entire system had to be changed out. Got new Carrier heat pumps for both floors. Cost ~$10K. I had 4 estimates and chose the company with the best reputation, not the cheapest.
You did it exactly right.

I went through the same thing during the pandemic, July 2020. Mine unfortunately was 50% more than yours.

People in the business or who can DIY are going to insist I got mugged, but let me tell you, they wanted $21k. lol

But what's critical about your post--you don't want the cheapest quote. You want the best job (often higher quotes), but the cheapest price.

In my case, the cheapest quote omitted the chimney liner (when a high efficiency furnace replaces the old 78% one, the water heater is orphaned and now there's not enough heat to prevent condensation which will destroy a chimney over time). I googled and that can be a $2k standalone job.

My price was also higher imho because the system is a TRANE.

Also, I got 0% for 60 mos, equal payments, not to be confused with 0% minimal payments. My buddy lectured me since he's a fan of DR, you can't pay cash, you don't get it. But it's 0% equal payments, same price as if cash. But nothing, and on and on (he didn't do what he said and claims well he's in Jacksonville he can't do without AC like I could in PA, always excuses).

But again, I dare say you hit the nail on the head, you don't want the cheapest, but the best job, often that's reputation.

I noticed that many did not push the 94%-96% furnace--why would they not push something more expensive? My guess? The chimney liner, and less margin as more labor drilling through the foundation for the intake and exhaust. Anytime a vendor doesn't push a more expensive product, that we are interested in, is a red flag.
 
My mom just got what I think is absolutely hosed replacing a 10 year old system in her 1,700 SF house. American Standard, 80% furnace, new AC, 4” thicker filter, humidifier and thermostat for $14,000. She didn’t shop around and didn’t even need the thing. The company she uses for semi-annual cleaning and checkups commented about how something was looking dirty and refrigerant prices and blah blah blah she had a new system the next day. She’s happy so I’m not going to rain on her parade.

@doublebase - how old is your home and how’s the insulation? That oil use appears high for setting it to 63, but I’m not in oil country.
It’s around 23 years old, and it’s a big house.
 
You did it exactly right.

I went through the same thing during the pandemic, July 2020. Mine unfortunately was 50% more than yours.

People in the business or who can DIY are going to insist I got mugged, but let me tell you, they wanted $21k. lol

But what's critical about your post--you don't want the cheapest quote. You want the best job (often higher quotes), but the cheapest price.

In my case, the cheapest quote omitted the chimney liner (when a high efficiency furnace replaces the old 78% one, the water heater is orphaned and now there's not enough heat to prevent condensation which will destroy a chimney over time). I googled and that can be a $2k standalone job.

My price was also higher imho because the system is a TRANE.

Also, I got 0% for 60 mos, equal payments, not to be confused with 0% minimal payments. My buddy lectured me since he's a fan of DR, you can't pay cash, you don't get it. But it's 0% equal payments, same price as if cash. But nothing, and on and on (he didn't do what he said and claims well he's in Jacksonville he can't do without AC like I could in PA, always excuses).

But again, I dare say you hit the nail on the head, you don't want the cheapest, but the best job, often that's reputation.

I noticed that many did not push the 94%-96% furnace--why would they not push something more expensive? My guess? The chimney liner, and less margin as more labor drilling through the foundation for the intake and exhaust. Anytime a vendor doesn't push a more expensive product, that we are interested in, is a red flag.
Funny you mention a chimney liner, that was last years headache. Cost me $3,000.
 
Is the unit not economically repairable? A unit up North may not have all that many hours on it.

Here in South Florida, AC units run just about all year long, and are darn near 24/7 in summer. I am a huge fan of repairs, as long as the original equipment is good quality. I've swapped out fan and blower motors galore, compressors and once, an upflow style A-frame evaporator coil in my air handler. Not to mention a few copper pipe repairs.

Something of note, if the evaporator coil is leaking/bad, the cost is often $300-$650 for the unit itself, includes the drip tray, and might even include new sheet metal, depending on brand.

A new compressor might be $600-$1500. Not difficult to install for a licensed contractor.

At my previous house, I installed a new compressor outside and a new evaporator of slightly larger size. 20 years later, it is still working! The cost was a fraction of a total replacement.
 
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Is the unit not economically repairable? A unit up North may not have all that many hours on it.

Here in South Florida, AC units run just about all year long, and are darn near 24/7 in summer. I am a huge fan of repairs, as long as the original equipment is good quality. I've swapped out fan and blower motors galore, compressors and once, an upflow style A-frame evaporator coil in my air handler. Not to mention a few copper pipe repairs.

Something of note, if the evaporator coil is leaking/bad, the cost is often $300-$650 for the unit itself, includes the drip tray, and might even include new sheet metal, depending on brand.

A new compressor might be $600-$1500. Not difficult to install for a licensed contractor.

At my previous house, I installed a new compressor outside and a new evaporator of slightly larger size. 20 years later, it is still working! The cost was a fraction of a total replacement.
Online, I’ve seen horror stories where yes, the condenser has a 10 or 12 yr warranty and covered. Homeowner gets a $2000 bill nonetheless.

So I had thought as a general rule R22 systems were not usually repaired after 2010 unless they could take a recharge and last a season. I went through one to try and it worked for 3 weeks.

I heard 410a is phased out. I’d be curious, do R454b machines use the same hardware? Because the surface area of the condenser coils got huge with 410a. Are 2023 machines less efficient? I see TRANE has a 15 seer machine that looks like the old 16.5 SEER.

Should a person have gotten a 410a system last year, or a 454b system this year? I guess either way, much pricier than 2019-20
 
Any idea what a new ac system goes for today? My 22 year old unit died. I have two units, the upstairs unit has not been able to keep up with keeping temp when very hot. The shutoff box just melted. Figure the compressor failed or something, either way, it was on borrowed time.

My upstairs square footage is pretty big 2,000 feet or so. I imagine I’d need an entire new setup, as the old refrigerant is obsolete now. I’m hoping to use my existing ductwork. I’m in the New England area.
About $3000- $4000 for a 4 ton unit (Trane) then figure 6 hours installation MAX. How much do you want to pay a master and a apprentice for 6 hours? $1000? 1500?

Anybody paying 10g for a replacement is being taken to the cleaners without the surf and turf dinner and the requisite bottle of Sauvignon Blanc

My buddy had a mini split installed in his garage and he likes it. Can't remember if it's Panasonic or Mitsubishi. More cost there and you may find the evap unit hanging on the wall-ceiling intersection unattractive.
 
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About $3000- $4000 for a 4 ton unit (Trane) then figure 6 hours installation MAX. How much do you want to pay a master and a apprentice for 6 hours? $1000? 1500?

Anybody paying 10g for a replacement is being taken to the cleaners without the surf and turf dinner and the requisite bottle of Sauvignon Blanc

My buddy had a mini split installed in his garage and he likes it. Can't remember if it's Panasonic or Mitsubishi. More cost there and you may find the evap unit hanging on the wall-ceiling intersection unattractive.
I love this statement.

I fixed my BMW abs dsc hydro for ~ $500. It was $4,200 at the dealer in 2016.

So if I made a blanket statement like you did about people paying $4k, well, it would not make much sense. Not everyone can do the job themselves, is licensed, has connections in the industry, and most of all, as mentioned, the warranty is as good as the install job. The simple 10/12 year warranty leaves many people with a $2000 bill if something breaks.

Your surf and turf comment is tongue in cheek, I get it. $4000 for a Trane 4 ton? Mine is listed at $8400 to $12800. Yes, that’s list.

 
I love this statement.

I fixed my BMW abs dsc hydro for ~ $500. It was $4,200 at the dealer in 2016.

So if I made a blanket statement like you did about people paying $4k, well, it would not make much sense. Not everyone can do the job themselves, is licensed, has connections in the industry, and most of all, as mentioned, the warranty is as good as the install job. The simple 10/12 year warranty leaves many people with a $2000 bill if something breaks.

Your surf and turf comment is tongue in cheek, I get it. $4000 for a Trane 4 ton? Mine is listed at $8400 to $12800. Yes, that’s list.

Just talking a 4 ton ac w/ vertical handler in the closet. Don't know if attic evaps cost more or less $

Just saying if the unit cost is $4g's then somewhat overpaying $2g's for an install gets you to $6g's.

So anyone paying $10g's for an "average" AC install is getting taken.

My point is check prices of the unit and don't get taken to the cleaners - if possible.

Might be hard these days.

 
About $3000- $4000 for a 4 ton unit (Trane) then figure 6 hours installation MAX. How much do you want to pay a master and a apprentice for 6 hours? $1000? 1500?

Anybody paying 10g for a replacement is being taken to the cleaners without the surf and turf dinner and the requisite bottle of Sauvignon Blanc

My buddy had a mini split installed in his garage and he likes it. Can't remember if it's Panasonic or Mitsubishi. More cost there and you may find the evap unit hanging on the wall-ceiling intersection unattractive.
Guy came out yesterday, haven’t received a quote yet, but he suggested keeping the costs as low as possible for me. I have two units, one is working fine, he suggests keeping it. The one for upstairs is the problem, he suggested using the existing line set because it runs through the walls and up into the attic. He said he’d run a cleaner through the lines. Guy seemed pretty knowledgable and honest, but he hasn’t gotten me the estimate yet. I’m expecting it to be between $6,000-$10,000. It’ll probably be a two and a half ton unit (just based on the current setup), with two thermostats upstairs. But I really don’t know.
 
This is being installed today and tomorrow. Canadian Dollarettes. The furnace is a replacement for a 1979 Lennox and the AC is a new installation. Gonna be a nice cool summer:

1686092345633.png
 
This is being installed today and tomorrow. Canadian Dollarettes. The furnace is a replacement for a 1979 Lennox and the AC is a new installation. Gonna be a nice cool summer:

View attachment 159793
Is your hot water heater electric? Don’t see any chimney liner listed. Interesting that furnace > AC

Perhaps you already have a high efficiency hot water heater that directly vents outside
 
Is your hot water heater electric? Don’t see any chimney liner listed. Interesting that furnace > AC

Perhaps you already have a high efficiency hot water heater that directly vents outside
No. Old school gas with a pilot. 40 gallon unit. They put a liner in the vent to help draw.
 
I wanted to try one in our bedroom but the says it would make the house look like a motel.
We installed one in a bedroom w/ 10 foot ceilings and mounted the unit about 8 1/2 feet above the floor and we don't notice it. The inside unit is about 26" wide and about 6" tall and about 6" deep so it's nothing like a big hotel room unit that sits on the floor. It's also MUCH quieter. Besides who's going to see it in your bedroom? Other than you, your wife and possibly a GF or two.
 
My upstairs GE window ac cost 270 bucks. I could by TEN of them for $2700.00

that's 60,000 btu total. Ten compresors, ten evaporators, ten condensers.

See the ridiculous overpricing of the whole house AC equipment? And it is usually LESS reliable.

then most contractors are charging over 500 bucks an hour for labour. What blue collar working stiff makes that?

Just a rant. Now I return you to the regular channel.
 
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