It is race oil and may not comply with some of the API standards like too much ZDDP for cat converters I guess. But a lot of speciallized oils don't comply (RP, M1 Vtwin, Red Line, etc). The street and non street are different additive packages I'm told but I think it is mostly marketing. If it says not street legal it must be good!!! Most race cars and power sport vehicles (bikes) don't run cat converters so no worries about zinc and phosphorus for those that use these oils. Still good oil regardless of marketing strategy.
Cost effective 20W-50 oil for motorcycles?
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I saw that Autozone has Casrtol 4t motorcycle oil 10w40,20w50 for $4.99 a quart.
You may consider Elf's (http://www.ElfMoto.US) Moto 4 XT Tech (10W-50) which is a full synthetic PAO. We run it in our Hyabusa powered Radical SR3 race car with great results.
Feff
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Racing oils and aircraft oil have reduced "additive" packages in order to provide more oil between the moving parts. With the exception of sacrificial additives (like zinc), additives detract from the oil's ability to lubricate. They're in there to absorb corrosive operating by-products that slip past the piston rings. Multi-grade oils (20W-50 for example) also have viscosity index improvers (VII) to make the oil "seem" like a 50wt oil at operating temperatures. VII chemicals also replace oil and have the additional bad habit of shearing away to the base oil grade when the multi-grade oil gets "pinched" (like between gear teeth).
The most robust oil you could put in your crankcase is a mono-grade SAE-30, SAE-40, or SAE-50. Your engine's cams will love you for this, but you would need to take additional precaution of not "revving" your engine during the first several minutes of operation.
The question was regarding 20W-50. Almost any automotive brand will provide the protection you're looking for. Higher priced specialty oils may represent superior qualities, but sometimes better can be the enemy of "good enough."
The most robust oil you could put in your crankcase is a mono-grade SAE-30, SAE-40, or SAE-50. Your engine's cams will love you for this, but you would need to take additional precaution of not "revving" your engine during the first several minutes of operation.
The question was regarding 20W-50. Almost any automotive brand will provide the protection you're looking for. Higher priced specialty oils may represent superior qualities, but sometimes better can be the enemy of "good enough."
Well, the Motorcraft 15w40 is a syn blend and may be a perfect oil for year around.
the motorcraft 15w40 was the worst i have tested with regards to shearing. 1.9 susvis LOWER than the next brand even though it went .6 hours less time!
I used Schaeffer 7000 synblend 20W50 racing oil in my '08 Sportster and noticed an improvement in engine smoothness and significantly reduced oil consumption over the (presumably) H-D 360 factory-fill. The sample is at the lab now and I should have it posted here in a day or two. At $5.33/qt, the Schaeffer's is significantly less expensive than the M-1 V-Twin for $8.25/qt that I had been using in another motorcycle.
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Sunruh,
Is there anyplace where we could find your test results? I just bought a "Pitster Pro" oil cooled mini motard bike for a local motard racing league. It asks for a 20w-50, and I have no clue as to a good value in 20w-50's or whether I should just go with an HDEO 15w-40 and change it after every weekly race night. The sump is pretty small, so it wouldn't be a big deal.
I remember "fuel tanker man" going on about Havoline 20w-50, and I thought I might try that.
Is there anyplace where we could find your test results? I just bought a "Pitster Pro" oil cooled mini motard bike for a local motard racing league. It asks for a 20w-50, and I have no clue as to a good value in 20w-50's or whether I should just go with an HDEO 15w-40 and change it after every weekly race night. The sump is pretty small, so it wouldn't be a big deal.
I remember "fuel tanker man" going on about Havoline 20w-50, and I thought I might try that.
nope. some are on this site.
havoline 10w40 did not hold up in my test. the 20w50 might.
the hdeo 15w40s are all pretty decent. as are the 20w50s. go with the cheapest you can buy (that gives good clutch feel) and drain it ever time you ride it.
havoline 10w40 did not hold up in my test. the 20w50 might.
the hdeo 15w40s are all pretty decent. as are the 20w50s. go with the cheapest you can buy (that gives good clutch feel) and drain it ever time you ride it.
Quote:
go with the cheapest you can buy (that gives good clutch feel) and drain it ever time you ride it.
LOL!! That sounds reasonable.
go with the cheapest you can buy (that gives good clutch feel) and drain it ever time you ride it.
LOL!! That sounds reasonable.
Originally Posted By: sunruh
nope. some are on this site.
havoline 10w40 did not hold up in my test. the 20w50 might.
the hdeo 15w40s are all pretty decent. as are the 20w50s. go with the cheapest you can buy (that gives good clutch feel) and drain it ever time you ride it.
I've read enough of your posts so that this advice is good enough for me! I am going to follow it.
Thanks for the feedback!
nope. some are on this site.
havoline 10w40 did not hold up in my test. the 20w50 might.
the hdeo 15w40s are all pretty decent. as are the 20w50s. go with the cheapest you can buy (that gives good clutch feel) and drain it ever time you ride it.
I've read enough of your posts so that this advice is good enough for me! I am going to follow it.
Thanks for the feedback!
+1 on the Schaeffers series 7000 racing 20W-50 for your bike with shared sump. This is one of the best bang for the buck, especially if you ride hard. Very shear resistant and low wearing, but reasonably priced, too. PM "salesrep" here if you cannot find locally. He will treat you right.
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