"Correct" way to repair thin wood to accept screw?

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JHZR2

JHZR2

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Yes, I know that I could just turn the hardware 45 degreees and make all new holes. But what if I wanted to repair? Epoxy and re-tap for a screw? Water putty? Since there is a full size mortise behind it, there's not a lot of wood. Thanks!
 
I can't see how much is chipped out near the hole. I would use oak dowels, even side by side if needed.( i might drill it for a larger dowel so when you re-drill the hole, is not going to be on the edge of a dowel). You could use epoxy. I find that polyurethane glue works well especially when you wet the wood first. Poly glue fills the gaps better and is strong. After it sets, you could use a flush cut saw ( preferably a Japanese flush cut, the home depot ones will still mar your surface ). then drill the new hole through the oak dowel. You will have to tape off the area with wide paint tape as poly glue expands, you will want to wipe the excess as it expands over the first hour or so. https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-Japanese-S...e+flush+cut+saw
 
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Square dowel with wood epoxy in the horizontal missing piece, and then, believe it or not, tooth picks with or without glue/epoxy to repair the threads in the hole! The toothpick trick is probably the best single diy home life hack I've ever learned for repairing stripped holes in wood. If there isn't anything below the holes, take about 3 square toothpicks, tap them in wood epoxy, stick the in the hole and wait to dry, then break of the ends and rescrew. No need to drill or anything; the toothpicks will splinter and fill in gaps in the threads making a super tight new threadpack.
 
:edit: if there is mortise behind that wood and all you need is for the screw to hold where it splintered out, just jam toothpicks in the hole, break them off to the right length, and rescrew. It works awesome.
 
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It's tough to see what that wood is where the screws go. Is it just plywood? I would use an epoxy filler as a better product than the Durhams water putty. spasm3's glued in, over-sized dowel repair is an excellent solution also. Depending on accessibility, a wood insert might work also: http://www.theinsertcompany.com/index.php That broken out hole on the left......if there is room, could you slide a T Nut shown below into the broken "slot" to work like a hollow wall anchor??
 
I would use wooden dowels glued in and cut flush. Go as big a diameter as you can, it will be stronger. I've done it using a brad point drill bit And one of those Japanese Saws that cut on the pull-stroke. I have one from Home Depot and put 'blue' Painters tape on each side of dowel to NOT mar surface. just take your time and let the glue completely dry.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Square dowel with wood epoxy in the horizontal missing piece, and then, believe it or not, tooth picks with or without glue/epoxy to repair the threads in the hole! The toothpick trick is probably the best single diy home life hack I've ever learned for repairing stripped holes in wood. If there isn't anything below the holes, take about 3 square toothpicks, tap them in wood epoxy, stick the in the hole and wait to dry, then break of the ends and rescrew. No need to drill or anything; the toothpicks will splinter and fill in gaps in the threads making a super tight new threadpack.
I learned a similar method using wooden matches. The matches of today are made from very soft punk wood so the idea is not as good as in the past when wooden matches were much stronger. Your toothpick idea sounds good.
 
I used to use toothpicks (which work fine if the load isn't too great) but for a tougher job I prefer to drill out the offending hole and glue in a dowel. I use plain wood glue. If you make the dowel a little short you can tap it in flush with the surface so you don't even have to cut it off. I've reworked a few door hinges with misplaced or loose screws that way and it makes for a very strong repair. Meanwhile, given that there are 3 holes I'd be tempted to rotate the fitting and drill 3 new holes.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
I can't see how much is chipped out near the hole. I would use oak dowels, even side by side if needed.( i might drill it for a larger dowel so when you re-drill the hole, is not going to be on the edge of a dowel). You could use epoxy. I find that polyurethane glue works well especially when you wet the wood first. Poly glue fills the gaps better and is strong. After it sets, you could use a flush cut saw ( preferably a Japanese flush cut, the home depot ones will still mar your surface ). then drill the new hole through the oak dowel. You will have to tape off the area with wide paint tape as poly glue expands, you will want to wipe the excess as it expands over the first hour or so. https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-Japanese-S...e+flush+cut+saw
What spas says. I have used this repair method many times. After I drill the hole for the dowel, I use a dab of wood glue on it and drive it in. Don't hesitate.
 
Mostly what others have already suggested. However, yellow or white glue will work fine and is very strong when dry. Drill out the round holes then use a dowel w/glue to fill. For the rectangular slot, use a popsicle stick with the end cut square.
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Mostly what others have already suggested. However, yellow or white glue will work fine and is very strong when dry. Drill out the round holes then use a dowel w/glue to fill. For the rectangular slot, use a popsicle stick with the end cut square.
1/64" undersize hole will work. I use a drill index to find the right size drill bit.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
It's tough to see what that wood is where the screws go. Is it just plywood? I would use an epoxy filler as a better product than the Durhams water putty. spasm3's glued in, over-sized dowel repair is an excellent solution also. Depending on accessibility, a wood insert might work also: http://www.theinsertcompany.com/index.php That broken out hole on the left......if there is room, could you slide a T Nut shown below into the broken "slot" to work like a hollow wall anchor??
No these are solid wood panel doors, madein the 20s. Trim is all chestnut but I believe the doors are pine. The issue is that there's maybe 1/4" of wood between the surface and the mortise assembly. Years have loosened the screws on the hardware, and they won't stay in well on the most used doors. This one has a cracked spot (top hole) which needs repair.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Opinions, titebond 3, gorilla glue or epoxy?
I think any of those will work. I am partial to poly glues, some think with the foam bubbles in gaps that its weaker. I have heard great things about titebond 3. The good thing about T3 is it cleans up with water. I'd go with what you have experience using.
 
Well Ive used plenty of wood glue, I'd have to open poly glue fresh, or I could mix up epoxy. I guess the metric I'm interested in is which is more workable when I drill/screw through it.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Well Ive used plenty of wood glue, I'd have to open poly glue fresh, or I could mix up epoxy. I guess the metric I'm interested in is which is more workable when I drill/screw through it.
If you use a large enough dowel, hopefully you will not have to drill/screw into set glue. You would be drilling into the oak dowel. If you are doing a toothpick fix, i have no idea.
 
I determined that I could use a 5/16 dowel easily. Got a bradpoint bit and drilled. Lower wood immediately ripped out. Was planning to use a pine dowel in here for no other reason than I figured the door is pine. Cut another short length in half and used it to fill the bottom. Probably should have just sanded it to a square, but oh well. Stick that in, used system three T88 slow cure, and will re-drill tomorrow... Also added 5/16 oak dowels to some chestnut trim where the screws had stripped long ago. It's been like that since we moved there. Finally fixing it, lol.
 
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