Coolant for a Farmall H

[civic09]

Hello gentlemen and I apologize for not asking in the PCMO/Heavy Duty Engine oil section last night, but this is the COOLING SYSTEM AND ADDITIVES section. What kind of coolant should I use for my FARMALL H? I dont know what kind my father put in his SUPER H honestly. I think there is a International dealer halfway up to my real fathers house. Havent looked into this part yet, so any advice is greatly appreciated, as I hopefully will go up to real dads place to check some other stuff over on the tractor.


Thank you gentlemen in advance for any help and info and advice,


adam

 

[Coolant_Man]

My tractor history is a little rusty, but wasn't that made back in the 1940s? If so, farmers usually used just plain old water and drained it out during the colder months.

Today you could probably use Prestone AMAM or Super Tech mixed with distilled water. This isn't a heavy-duty diesel application.

Here is the MSDS for Super Tech in the blue bottle (notice it says Prestone)...

http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/338613.pdf

Unfortunately, it doesn't cover metal wear numbers.

Also, here is a forum of old tractor owners also talking about using Prestone AMAM (remember that Super Tech in the blue bottle is the exact same thing and costs less)...

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=1044965

So for your car in your other thread and this tractor, fill them up with distilled water, run them for 10-15 minutes, drain them, and repeat until the water comes out clear. This may take several tries. There will be water left in the engine blocks so pour in concentrated coolant. Start them back up and let them run for a good 15 minutes so the concentrated coolant mixes with the remaining clean distilled water. You should get around a 50:50 to 60:40 ratio of coolant to distilled water.

 

[Michael_P]

Cheap green stuff is what I put in my Super C. This baby doesn't even have a water pump. Circulation through convection. I guess the H is the same way. Mine is a 1960. Stay away from OAT's. Those are best for sealed systems. I am not a big fan of additives for cooling systems, however, Water Wetter makes those convection circ cooling systems work well in hot weather.

 

[civic09]

Thanks guys for the info and for the links Coolant_Man

Adam

 

[Chris142]

I would not use an all makes all models coolant in your copper and brass radiator. That stuff is for plastic and aluminum radiators. Go with the old style silicated green coolant

 

[Coolant_Man]

I forgot to mention the drain plugs on that tractor. If it has drain plugs on the radiator and on the engine and you open both, there will be very little water left. In that case, make up some pre-mixed coolant and pour that into the tractor.

http://www.ytmag.com//articles/artint270.htm

 

[Rand]

conventional green type.

 

[mechanicx]

On any older gas powered equipment use original Green. And it's also good for diesels if you add SCAs.

 

[Coolant_Man]

The only real issue is wet sleeve cavitation. If that is the case, go with a diesel coolant like Final Charge Global which requires no SCA or DCA...

http://www.finalcharge.com/finalcharge.html

Using conventional green, you may need to add SCA/DCA.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: Coolant_Man
The only real issue is wet sleeve cavitation. If that is the case, go with a diesel coolant like Final Charge Global which requires no SCA or DCA...

http://www.finalcharge.com/finalcharge.html

Using conventional green, you may need to add SCA/DCA.


is wet sleeve cavitation an issue with an antique gas engine with 6:1? compression and no water pump?

 

[MNgopher]

Conventional Green. No all makes all models dex cool clones.

 

[civic09]

Thanks for the info folks. I do have some green coolant at dads place that isnt AMAM.

adam

 

[civic09]

Thanks for the info folks. I do have some green coolant at dads place that isnt AMAM.

adam

 

[Coolant_Man]

Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: Coolant_Man
The only real issue is wet sleeve cavitation. If that is the case, go with a diesel coolant like Final Charge Global which requires no SCA or DCA...

http://www.finalcharge.com/finalcharge.html

Using conventional green, you may need to add SCA/DCA.


is wet sleeve cavitation an issue with an antique gas engine with 6:1? compression and no water pump?

Some on that forum I linked to seem to think it can be and some do not. I know back in the 40s they just ran water in them. A lot of them on there seem to be running Prestone AMAM and some are running the old green stuff. It's an interesting forum if you like antique tractors.

 

[FusilliJerry82]

Why would you want to run a Dexclone in a 40's tractor?

 

[cronk]

I am running Fleet Charge in my Ford 9N.
You can buy it at Tractor Supply Co or Heavy Equipment shops.
Don't be surprised, it is PURPLE in color!

Does anyone think Peak global would work in this type of ap?
I am not sure how well ir works with copper/brass.

 

[mechanicx]

I think Peak Global is acceptable with copper/brass/solder. I think G-05 is too. Fleet Charge is all right but isn't a 9N tractor gas powered? I'd probably just run conventional green since the nitrited coolant is unnecessary. conventional Green is probably the most proven coolant in a cast iron gas engine with a copper radiator.