Coolant change - can't get enough back into rad

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: jwmacleo
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Alright. Let it cool for a while. When its cool take the radiator cap back off. Top it off again if possible. Now start the engine with the cap off in your hand ready to go. If there's any room, add more. Keep watching, its gonna rise fast now that the engines running. When its just about to overflow, quickly put the cap on. Keep it running and watch. That should help get any air out. May have to repeat that once or twice.


I'll give it a shot. At this point I'm just trying to avoid a tow.

Hopefully this will work. Just watch as it rises, then cap it so there's no air. If a little overflows thats fine, just get the cap back on before it gets too hot. Don't want you to get scalded.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: EType
To those giving him advice, did you not read the post where he said it overheated and no hot air came from the heating?

Doesn't that suggest some sort of blockage?

Yep, read it. He was fine before he drained his radiator. So should be just air. What we trying to get rid of.

 

[ram_man]

Originally Posted By: jwmacleo
Originally Posted By: ram_man
If no bleeder there is a good chance you can remove the temp sensor and pour fluid in until it comes out in a steady stream. Worked like a charm for my civic.


I'm not sure where the temp sensor is. If I find it, do you mean pour coolant in the rad until fluid comes out the temp sensor hole?



That's it exactly. I have found It to be the easiest fool proof way thus far.

 

[dishdude]

Have you tried a Honda forum? It sounds like there is a bleeding procedure not being followed.

 

[jwmacleo]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Have you tried a Honda forum? It sounds like there is a bleeding procedure not being followed.


Yes, it seems that Honda doesn't have much of a bleed procedure, aside from running it with the rad cap only halfway tight.

 

[ram_man]

http://imgur.com/ToNhVd3.png

Just unplug unscrew . Drain what you have in from the petcock then pour fluid back in. In my experience it is the quickest easiest way to do it.

 

[ARB1977]

Originally Posted By: jwmacleo
Hey, I'm in the middle of changing my coolant in my 2005 Honda CRV. I drained from the petcock plug at the bottom of the rad. Towards the end of the drain, I opened the radiator cap on the top (mistake?). The reservoir is mostly empty, and I haven't found a good way to empty the rest so I'm leaving it there. When refilling, it took only about a litre (quart) or two, and then overflowed from the top rad cap. My understanding is that it should take something like 4-5 liters. I assume there is a big air bubble in there that isn't moving. Any thoughts about how I can fix this?

I've tried draining a bit more from the petcock with the top rad cap open and it doesn't seem to allow me to add more. I've also tried filling with the hose to the reservoir disconnected from the top of the rad. Again, didn't make a difference.

I imagine turning it on with the rad cap loose would get things moving around, but I don't want to damage anything with too little fluid in there.


I did our 08 last week. The resivior just pulls out. The radiator took almost a gallon and a half of honda fluid. The instructions said to turn the heater to full hot while draining...why I don't know. It didn't say to turn the car to on.

 

[jwmacleo]

The car cooled off, so I took a look again. The reservoir had drained (maybe entirely) while it was running. Again, I wasn't watching closely enough.

I was able to add more coolant to the rad, but not a whole lot before it was full again. I can continue to add a little bit at a time (maybe 100ml or so) and then can watch it go into the rad extremely slowly. I'm going to do this for a bit.

ARB1977: I had turned it to hot before draining, but now I'm not positive that I had actually turned the fan on as well. The protocol for coolant change that I saw suggested running the engine once the new coolant was in there with the rad cap still loose (hold fluid in, let air out), and to run it until the fan came on twice (takes ages if the coolant system is working well).

 

[eljefino]

Take the top rad hose off the top of the radiator. I bet coolant won't fall out, or not much.

Hold that hose up high, put a big funnel in it. Cut the top off a 2 liter soda bottle if you lack one.

"Backfill" the engine until coolant oozes out the rad nipple.

Quick, like a bunny, put the hose back on the nipple and tighten the clamp.

Then run it.

 

[JamesBond]

Originally Posted By: jwmacleo
I can continue to add a little bit at a time (maybe 100ml or so) and then can watch it go into the rad extremely slowly. I'm going to do this for a bit.



Yes, just keep doing this. Squeeze all the hoses a few times, each time before you top it off. This will work, it just takes a little patience, do it during the commercials.

 

[jwmacleo]

I got some more coolant in the system. Running it with the cap open helped a bit (it bubbled a fair bit the first time). I ran it for a little bit and it didn't overheat. However, there is still no hot air blowing inside the cabin. Also, I think the rad should still take more coolant.

I'm leaving it with the cap on loosely overnight. Maybe some air will purge that way. Taking it to a garage in the morning anyway. Hopefully I can drive it there.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: jwmacleo
The car cooled off, so I took a look again. The reservoir had drained (maybe entirely) while it was running. Again, I wasn't watching closely enough.

I was able to add more coolant to the rad, but not a whole lot before it was full again. I can continue to add a little bit at a time (maybe 100ml or so) and then can watch it go into the rad extremely slowly. I'm going to do this for a bit.

If the contaminated expansion tank coolant was sucked back into the system then its just an air problem. You did the cap off engine running procedure to purge the air like I told you right? IMO that was the missing step. That, and topping off the expansion tank.

 

[TFB1]

Easiest way I've found is remove the heater hose that's highest up on the block/manifold and fill through the normal filler opening till coolant starts running out, has worked every time for me...

I've seen too many engines with the temp sensor buried to even think about looking for it and many are low on the block, so you'd loose more than you'll be able to pour in...

 

[ram_man]

If you would have unscrewed the temp sensor you would have been done hours ago.

 

[surfstar]

I've had luck with the front end on a jack or stands - gets the radiator fill up high (if you fill from the high point, air should work it self out) which allows me to get a full cooling system w/o have to run the car. I check to add after the next few drives also and its usually not needed. This would vary by vehicle, though.

 

[Merkava_4]

You just have air trapped in the system; this is normal. You need to burp the system. Take the cap off the reservoir and loosen the cap on the radiator to its first click. Run the engine up to full operating temp. When you start seeing large bubbles in the reservoir, that's normal; that means the thermostat has now opened up and the system is burping itself through the reservoir. As the system is burping, the coolant level in the reservoir will start dropping. You need to add coolant (to the hot fill line) as the system is purging its air. If you start to see coolant boiling in the reservoir, then that means it's time to tighten the radiator cap all the way. The engine temp will rise above normal doing this procedure; that's normal. Soon the engine cooling fans will come on at about 215*F and the temp will start to drop back down. This procedure takes about 45 minutes, so don't worry if the air is not coming out right away.

 

[jwmacleo]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
If you would have unscrewed the temp sensor you would have been done hours ago.


I believe you, I just don't know where it is. That pic was of a civic, I think.

 

[eljefino]

One thing you could run into is if your thermostat pellet isn't "underwater" there's nothing that can tickle it into opening. If it's "really tight" it'll keep air from burping out.

IDK where they put thermostats on your motor, but if you can get ccoolant on its "other side" through a heater hose or the top rad hose you may get better luck.

I'd be nervous about having steam do it. Of course there has to be a "right way" they do at the factory.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: jwmacleo
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Overflow has a clip, it should be towards the upper/left corner.

Fire the car up, turn the heat on max temp & fan, then turn off the heat, and allow it to run for 20 min with the cap OFF. Once the t-stat opens, you should be able to fill the rest.


So, coolant won't be constantly forced out the rad if I do this?

If I run for 20mins, won't it overheat again?

No, coolant will not come out of the rad. If you're able to feed more coolant into the system, it will not peg to red. You likely have a big air pocket somewhere that's preventing you from filling.

It's possible that Honda's instructions to turn the heater to max prior to draining, is to open the valves for the heater core. If that is true, perhaps this is what's preventing you from filling.

At this point, you'll just have to tinker with it until it lets you refill. Try all of the ideas that people have suggested here. At worst, you'll just have to tow it to a shop who has a Matco airlift to vacuum fill the system.

 

[LeakySeals]

Please update with the resolution so its not a dead end thread thanks.