Coolant Bypass

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quote:

Originally posted by carock:
I learned from the Catepillar reps for the Bradley Fighting Vehicle that coolant filters prevent a lot of damage. The sludge that buids up in the system coats parts and prevents them from getting the anti corrosion additives, so they corrode. A look at truck engines with coolant filters shows no sludge at rebuild time, so it seems logical that you are saving yourself some problems by using a good coolant filter. I just don't know if a TP filter is the best answer.I will give it a try.

What is the CAT BFV connection? It has a Cummins engine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by SWHeat:
On the thoughts of using a standard 3/4-16 mount.... [read cheap here].

What are your thoughts on using a fully synthetic element like an Amsoil filter? Would it breakdown similar to the regular oil filters in coolant? That would be cheap and easy.

Also, I'm intrigued with the thought of using a 3/4-16 mount inline with the heater hose with a Trasko filter. I think this would work. Cost effective? Debatable. But between the mesh screen and internal bypass of the unit you would be filtering all of the coolant to some degree all of the time. Thoughts?


I don't yet know how any lube filter stands up to coolant. For all I know they're the same. I know when they mix ..it's a mess. The 3/4-16 sounds like a bargain as far as the mount goes (I, btw, got two 11/16 thred mounts for $2.95 each + shipping of $5). ..but if you're paying for an expensive lube filter ..it's going to catch up in costs. The aspect of having it "full flow" would be more convenient then a bypass setup. Same heater hoses ..just adapt up or down and needed and everything's in line.

What Mel or Pete C. needs to confirm is that there are no special treatment processes that the media for coolant is subjected to ....that is, cellulous is cellulous. Once that's established ..or one of us opens a common lube filter put in this service for 20-30k and finds nothing wrong with it ...then hailyeah ..sounds like a good deal.
 
I have been using coolant by-pass and full flow filters on diesels for some time. I prefer the by-pass filters and now use Ralph's Motor Guard on a 2005 Dodge Cummins since new. The first TP change did show a lot of junk but since then the filter has been fairly clean. I guess it is doing its job.
 
Holson,

What is you change interval for the coolant MG setup? Is it a mess to change? Do you have any trouble with leaks?
 
I first changed the coolant by-pass filter at 2,000 miles and then changed it again at 4,000 total. Now I plan to change it once a year. It does not leak. Where my heater hose comes from the engine to the heater, I cut it and installed a brass valve with a new hose to the by-pass filter. Where my heater return hose goes from the heater back to the engine, I installed another brass valve with a hose to the return side of the Motor Guard housing. When I change filters, I close the valves, change filter, open the valves and add some make up coolant. Very easy.
 
nope Grab one and throw it in a bucket of water. Tape the edge so it doesn't unwind ..and just leave it there. It will change shape a bit ..but it will be intact.

You're not hitting it with a garden hose.
 
Gary is correct. The TP isn't much good when you change it but it is in one complete roll and it is pretty easy to see how much crud it collects. I'm happy with it. Harry
 
The Bradley had a Caterpillar diesel when I worked on them in 1985. I don't believe they have switched, but I am not sure.
 
Here is an oil filter that was used as a coolant filter for about 2K miles. It still looks good inside. I was surprised that it was as clean as it was. It is an old Coast to Coast filter. I don't know if new filters are as made as well.
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That is what my oil filter used as a coolant filter looked like.
It didn't fall apart.
It had some **** in it.
Just like that.
I used a cheap auto zone oil filter.
 
Yes, with T's in both heater hoses; one into the filter and the other out, but make sure the flow is the right direction.
You could probably even just put it into one line, since the flow through the filter would probably be enough for a heater.
Bear in mind that we are experimenting with this setup and it is not a proven long term solution yet. Actually, I have a Trasko filter that I wasn't using so I am using a Trasko now on the remote filter mount instead of a pleated filter.
 
quote:

Originally posted by carock:
The Bradley had a Caterpillar diesel when I worked on them in 1985. I don't believe they have switched, but I am not sure.

Bradleys still had Cummins diesels in 1997 and I'm 99% sure the still do. The definitely didn't have Cat engines before 1997. The MICV vehicles which were essentially Bradley prototypes also had Cummins Diesels from the start in about 1973.
 
I’m using Luberfiner stuff since I get a decent deal on it. I spent about $30 for the filter head (same as most HD spin-on fuel filters) and $8 for the SCA filter. You can also use a Detroit Diesel fuel filter head that is commonly available for about 22 dollars last time I checked. I’ll look up the numbers later; I don’t have them written down where I’m at right now. The coolant filters have really kept the cooling systems clean in all the stuff I’ve used them on. The SCA charged filters are really handy on diesels, IMO.
 
Well, I was wrong. That filter head off the Detroit was 13/16 thread, which is too large. Not sure what I was thinking there, I guess I wasn't thinking. At any rate, the Luberfiner head is LWHB4861 which is real close to the wix head that Gary Allan came up with. The SCA filter is LFW4013, both cost about $35 total. The filter head came with a nice bracket too, a steal at just over 20 bucks. The filter is 20 microns nominal for the Wix equivilant to the LuberfinerLFW4013.
 
quote:

Originally posted by trynew:
Yes, with T's in both heater hoses; one into the filter and the other out, but make sure the flow is the right direction.
You could probably even just put it into one line, since the flow through the filter would probably be enough for a heater.
Bear in mind that we are experimenting with this setup and it is not a proven long term solution yet. Actually, I have a Trasko filter that I wasn't using so I am using a Trasko now on the remote filter mount instead of a pleated filter.


How is the Trasko working out? Is it plumbed in the bypass way (two heater hoses) or inline?
 
I put it on only recently and have only put on about 250 miles so far. I haven't opened it up to look inside and probably won't for a while. The Trasko does heat up so I know coolant is going through it.
Yes, it is plumbed into the 2 hoses. The disadvantage of doing it that way is that the coolant divirted through the filter doesn't go through the heater, so there will be less heat. The disadvantage of using a trasko inline is that if the screen plugs, you get no coolant through the heater core. A pleated filter has a way to bypass all filtering if it plugs. Either way, a lack of heat from the heater is not serious and doesn't harm the vehicle.
 
Hello all. New guy with my first post. I run a spin on coolant filter using an equivelant to the non-SCA Napa 4070. It's a Donaldson P552077. For those looking for a cheap 11/16" threaded filter mount it's a common boating part used for fuel/water separation filters. You can get 'em on ebay or any marine supply store for around $16-20.
 
welcome.gif
Quickbeam. I had the good fortune to pick up 2 of those heads on ebay for $2.95 each. Had a heck of a time figuring out what thread it was (the guy selling them didn't know
dunno.gif
).
 
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