Even if you don't work on your own cars, it's neat to see a professional do this delicate operation.
Cool video on how to adjust valves
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ETCG videos are very nice and helpfull.
My 89 Accord was a single cam, twelve valve. I used a go-no-go gauge set to do the adjustments. Honda used to specify that it be done every 15K miles and later changed that advice to "only when noisy." I did mine every 20-25K for 23 years. I found that only about half of them would actually require adjustment and that was a stretch because they were never off by much. I used to attribute that to a lifetime of synthetic oil use. I never pulled the spark plugs and used to turn the engine using a half inch socket wrench on the big crankshaft pulley bolt. It was a bit harder to rotate with the plugs in, but it never caused me any problems.
The big plus about this was that you were replacing the valve cover gasket and hold-down grommets every 20-25K miles so leaks were almost never an issue.
The big plus about this was that you were replacing the valve cover gasket and hold-down grommets every 20-25K miles so leaks were almost never an issue.
EricTheCarGuy has many good DIY videos, many of them are works on Honda. I think the videos are mostly for beginners/novices, detailing every step clearly.
On my Toyotas, I find the exhaust valves tend to tighten over time. The intakes stay good.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
EricTheCarGuy has many good DIY videos, many of them are works on Honda. I think the videos are mostly for beginners/novices, detailing every step clearly.
I like how he shows you the feeling process for tightening fasteners. I used to "kill" fasteners (as he says) and break things from over tightening, especially stupid things like plastic brackets and such.
EricTheCarGuy has many good DIY videos, many of them are works on Honda. I think the videos are mostly for beginners/novices, detailing every step clearly.
I like how he shows you the feeling process for tightening fasteners. I used to "kill" fasteners (as he says) and break things from over tightening, especially stupid things like plastic brackets and such.
On the Honda the intake valves would tend to "loosen" and the exhaust valves would "tighten." Sounds similar to the Toyota. I used to overtighten and sometimes break fasteners when I was younger. The whole concept of feeling the correct tightness is something that comes with experience. If it doesn't there's this thing called a torque wrench that might be your best friend.
I bounced thorough the video.
He seems really good.
One thing about valve adjustments:
I prefer stone cold for consistency. Any warm/hot changes measurements from the first to the last.
He seems really good.
One thing about valve adjustments:
I prefer stone cold for consistency. Any warm/hot changes measurements from the first to the last.
Would you guys believe me if I tell you that I have done one on my 83 Prelude 12valve engine with the help of my brother? I am thinking we used the wheel to rotate the crankshaft. As far as I can remember they were all withing the spec. These days, I am not even doing my own oil changes :-(
Something which I always wanted to know:- Is it really critical to have the crankshaft/camshaft lined up exactly for the valve adjustment? I think as long as the follower is on the circular part of the lobe, it should be good enough, right??
Something which I always wanted to know:- Is it really critical to have the crankshaft/camshaft lined up exactly for the valve adjustment? I think as long as the follower is on the circular part of the lobe, it should be good enough, right??
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You're right. The only critical thing about adjusting valves is that the cam lobe is on the base circle or heel for that valve. IE, the lobe isn't opening the valve at all. For each particular engine design, there are a number of ways and configurations to achieve that, mostly for speed (so professional techs don't have to set each individual cylinder to TDC compression) you can do that but the safest way is to put each cylinder at TDC. That way you know the camlobes for the valves on that cylinder are on their base circle pointing away from the valves.
Some car manuals say it is OK to set multiple valves at one position.
I like TDC for each and every cylinder.
Be exactly at TDC? For this, close enough is OK. It is not like cam timing. A few degrees either way is OK.
Many cars, esp Japanese ones, do NOT like over tightening anything. Parts are great unless over stressed or overtightened.
Valve adjustment lock nuts are easy to strip by an amateur. Same for valve cover bolts - anything that goes in aluminum, too.
I like TDC for each and every cylinder.
Be exactly at TDC? For this, close enough is OK. It is not like cam timing. A few degrees either way is OK.
Many cars, esp Japanese ones, do NOT like over tightening anything. Parts are great unless over stressed or overtightened.
Valve adjustment lock nuts are easy to strip by an amateur. Same for valve cover bolts - anything that goes in aluminum, too.
The K-series engine has 90-degree marks on the camshaft pulley as well, which makes valve adjustments very easy. I did it at about 55,000 just out of curiosity, and only a few of the exhaust valves seemed the slightest bit loose. Probably not enough to mess with, but I adjusted them anyway, just because I knew they weren't perfect.
I was fortunate that my 4-cylinder turned when I turned the power steering pulley. But if it didn't, the video shows how easy it is to turn the crank. Honda thoughtfully put an access hole in the wheelhouse trim panel to get to the crank pulley bolt.
I was fortunate that my 4-cylinder turned when I turned the power steering pulley. But if it didn't, the video shows how easy it is to turn the crank. Honda thoughtfully put an access hole in the wheelhouse trim panel to get to the crank pulley bolt.
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
I guess since its a Honda or Toyota still requiring maintenance like this makes it acceptable...
I guess since its a Honda or Toyota still requiring maintenance like this makes it acceptable...
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
I guess since its a Honda or Toyota still requiring maintenance like this makes it acceptable...
I'm with this guy...
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
I guess since its a Honda or Toyota still requiring maintenance like this makes it acceptable...
I'm with this guy...
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
There are two sides to every coin. The last engine I had with a non-adjustable valvetrain had a "lifter tick" that was "normal" for that engine. Don't have those issues with adjustable valvetrains. I prefer something that I can keep in tolerance. If a hydraulic lifter malfunctions, or even if it doesn't and just has a "normal noise" to it, you have to go in and replace it or live with the noise. An adjustable valvetrain doesn't suffer from that issue.
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
There are two sides to every coin. The last engine I had with a non-adjustable valvetrain had a "lifter tick" that was "normal" for that engine. Don't have those issues with adjustable valvetrains. I prefer something that I can keep in tolerance. If a hydraulic lifter malfunctions, or even if it doesn't and just has a "normal noise" to it, you have to go in and replace it or live with the noise. An adjustable valvetrain doesn't suffer from that issue.
The only cars I've done valve adjustments on were my Yamaha-based V6 SHO's. That's a different deal, though: the gap is adjusted by the thickness of the shim in the buckets. Most of the time, you could get away with just flipping the shim over for a new wear surface and go on your way. That alone would tighten them up a bit.
Mechanical [non hydraulic] valve systems are very reliable and change very little overtime.also, they are simpler with less to go wrong.
Many shim bucket types will require no resetting for 200,000+ miles.
1/2 -1 1/2 hours for a screw adjuster type every 100k or so is bit a lot of maintenance.
Many shim bucket types will require no resetting for 200,000+ miles.
1/2 -1 1/2 hours for a screw adjuster type every 100k or so is bit a lot of maintenance.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Mechanical [non hydraulic] valve systems are very reliable and change very little overtime.also, they are simpler with less to go wrong.
Many shim bucket types will require no resetting for 200,000+ miles.
1/2 -1 1/2 hours for a screw adjuster type every 100k or so is bit a lot of maintenance.
This it is nice to know that if you develop a lifter tick you can adjust it and not have to replace it, a much more costly job.
Honda is still an engineering company and the giveaway is features like the adjustable valves.
I prefer them.
Mechanical [non hydraulic] valve systems are very reliable and change very little overtime.also, they are simpler with less to go wrong.
Many shim bucket types will require no resetting for 200,000+ miles.
1/2 -1 1/2 hours for a screw adjuster type every 100k or so is bit a lot of maintenance.
This it is nice to know that if you develop a lifter tick you can adjust it and not have to replace it, a much more costly job.
Honda is still an engineering company and the giveaway is features like the adjustable valves.
I prefer them.
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Originally Posted By: GMBoy
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
I guess since its a Honda or Toyota still requiring maintenance like this makes it acceptable...
Concur, I don't remember that last time I had to adjust any valves on any car that I have owned. Seems interesting to me.
Plus none of my valves tick. The 3400? Well I sure it will happen. But I have yet to find a LSX or 3800 with a loud tick from the valves. But if you want to pull valve covers that often to adjust valves, go right ahead, not my cup of tea.
It surprises me that you have to do valve adjustments on any late model car. That would be a deal breaker for me. Last time I had to adjust valves was on an old Shovelhead Harley.
I guess since its a Honda or Toyota still requiring maintenance like this makes it acceptable...
Concur, I don't remember that last time I had to adjust any valves on any car that I have owned. Seems interesting to me.
Plus none of my valves tick. The 3400? Well I sure it will happen. But I have yet to find a LSX or 3800 with a loud tick from the valves. But if you want to pull valve covers that often to adjust valves, go right ahead, not my cup of tea.
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