from talking to a few ppl on here, ive come to the conclusion that a cheap dino such as MC 5W30 would best suit my car, as i dont want to go longer than 3,000 mile oci's. but now i think what the heck, its 9 yrs old, runs good, so i wouldnt be scared to try and to prolong my oil change intervals. thinking about GC and M1 0W40. considering GC because ive heard its closer to a 40 wt oil, a very thick 30 wt, and i think that would be good protection for the hot summers my car endures. same reason im considering M1, thicker 40 wt for the hot summers. but my concern is, isnt a 0W oil better for winter startups? should i use something with a thicker starting wt during the summer? and also do i need to let the car idle for a few mins in the morning to let the 0W oil circulculate better before i accelerate hard or anything, as opposed to a 5W oil?
considering all options
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You don't need a thicker oil for hot summers, unless your oil temps rise as well. Stick with any of the good 30 weights out there.
Your car doesn't need an Xw-40 weight oil (nor GC for that matter), even if you were driving it in Death Valley.
That MC 5w30 can easily go 5K miles. Otherwise, get a decent 5w30 synthetic and run it 8-10K miles no problem.
In your climate, there won't be much difference between 5w-XX and 0w-XX.
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and also do i need to let the car idle for a few mins in the morning to let the 0W oil circulculate better before i accelerate hard or anything, as opposed to a 5W oil?
No. There is no reason to idle for a few mins with any oil. Maybe if it was 0F outside, and even then, not necessary. Just take it easy for the first couple of miles.
That MC 5w30 can easily go 5K miles. Otherwise, get a decent 5w30 synthetic and run it 8-10K miles no problem.
In your climate, there won't be much difference between 5w-XX and 0w-XX.
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and also do i need to let the car idle for a few mins in the morning to let the 0W oil circulculate better before i accelerate hard or anything, as opposed to a 5W oil?
No. There is no reason to idle for a few mins with any oil. Maybe if it was 0F outside, and even then, not necessary. Just take it easy for the first couple of miles.
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alright thanks guys. so the GC would only be necessary if i lived up north in a really cold area? coldest its got here this year is 28(and to everyone down here that is really cold lol)
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
alright thanks guys. so the GC would only be necessary if i lived up north in a really cold area? coldest its got here this year is 28(and to everyone down here that is really cold lol)
Not necessarily, the GC 0w30 is thicker than many 5w30's. If you are concerned about the winter use M1 AFE, worked great in my Altima according to UOA.
alright thanks guys. so the GC would only be necessary if i lived up north in a really cold area? coldest its got here this year is 28(and to everyone down here that is really cold lol)
Not necessarily, the GC 0w30 is thicker than many 5w30's. If you are concerned about the winter use M1 AFE, worked great in my Altima according to UOA.
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
alright thanks guys. so the GC would only be necessary if i lived up north in a really cold area?
No. GC, being a thick 30-weight and high HT/HS is too thick for you. It'll just rob you of power and MPG and give you nothing in return.
alright thanks guys. so the GC would only be necessary if i lived up north in a really cold area?
No. GC, being a thick 30-weight and high HT/HS is too thick for you. It'll just rob you of power and MPG and give you nothing in return.
If you really live in Golden Meadow LA then you are practically in the Gulf of Mexico and there is no actual winter to be concerned about in regards to oil. What have you been using the past 9 years? Unless your burning or leaking oil then why switch?
yeah i really do live in golden Meadow, i wouldnt just put that for no reason on here lol, and yeah im practically right on the gulf of mexico, no winter much at all. past 9 yrs before buying the car the previous (original) owner always had it changed at the dealer.
ANY SM/SN dino 5w30 with 5k ocis
dont over think it
dont over think it
alright man, im thinkin MC 5W30, seems like a good one, heard nothing but good about it and im also thinking about PYB 5W30
The only problem with the oils you mentioned is that they are both a good choice. I don't know if it matters but our local Nissan dealer uses Valvoline.
is it necessary to use a high mileage oil in my engine? it just turned 113k.
Does it leak? If no leaks, then HM oil is not necessary, IMHO.
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
is it necessary to use a high mileage oil in my engine? it just turned 113k.
i dont know if it needs it but hm would not hurt. they have seal conditioners and are usually a bit thicker to reduce consumption. and they usually have a better burn off rating not to mention higher detergent levels. i cant really think of any down sides to using it except its more expensive than regular dino
is it necessary to use a high mileage oil in my engine? it just turned 113k.
i dont know if it needs it but hm would not hurt. they have seal conditioners and are usually a bit thicker to reduce consumption. and they usually have a better burn off rating not to mention higher detergent levels. i cant really think of any down sides to using it except its more expensive than regular dino
You can easily go 5K OCI on any major brand dino.
Pick the color of plastic oil container you think looks best.
Buy it on sale.
Enjoy.
Pick the color of plastic oil container you think looks best.
Buy it on sale.
Enjoy.
Originally Posted By: bigdawg74
Does it leak? If no leaks, then HM oil is not necessary, IMHO.
The idea is to prevent leaks from happening, HM oil usually does little for existing problems...
If you believe the oil co advertising, at well over 100K mi it's definatly a candidate...
Does it leak? If no leaks, then HM oil is not necessary, IMHO.
The idea is to prevent leaks from happening, HM oil usually does little for existing problems...
If you believe the oil co advertising, at well over 100K mi it's definatly a candidate...
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: bigdawg74
Does it leak? If no leaks, then HM oil is not necessary, IMHO.
The idea is to prevent leaks from happening, HM oil usually does little for existing problems...
If you believe the oil co advertising, at well over 100K mi it's definatly a candidate...
Actually, my leaks were greatly reduced when I put in QS HM in my coupe. YMMV. My sedan doesn't leak w/ 109000 miles on the clock, so it gets regular dino. Plus, in theory, if you wanted to prevent leaks from happening in the first place, why aren't the seal conditioners found in HM oils put in FF/conventional oil?
Originally Posted By: bigdawg74
Does it leak? If no leaks, then HM oil is not necessary, IMHO.
The idea is to prevent leaks from happening, HM oil usually does little for existing problems...
If you believe the oil co advertising, at well over 100K mi it's definatly a candidate...
Actually, my leaks were greatly reduced when I put in QS HM in my coupe. YMMV. My sedan doesn't leak w/ 109000 miles on the clock, so it gets regular dino. Plus, in theory, if you wanted to prevent leaks from happening in the first place, why aren't the seal conditioners found in HM oils put in FF/conventional oil?
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