Confused about 12 volt wire splice

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Jan 3, 2021
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Hello. I’m in the final stage of adding a 12 volt usb adapter to my 08 Tundra. The mount and usb adapter came with no instructions. I have a red and black wire coming from the new usb plug but the cigarette lighter wires are different colors as you can see. I THINK the black wire goes to the black striped wire already in the vehicle and the red to the white. I have two splice connectors to accomplish this but I wanted to double check here first to avoid making a stupid mistake.
Thanks for your assistance.
IMG_3990.jpeg
 
Use a multimeter and figure out which is the ground and hot.
hot to ground will show voltage
ground to ground will not.
My brother has my multimeter so I guess I’ll have to wait until next week. Dangit!
 
My brother has my multimeter so I guess I’ll have to wait until next week. Dangit!
I first read this sentence as "My brother was my multimeter..." and had this image of a little kid sticking his tongue out as you touched wires to it, looking for the hot wire. ⚡🤪

A test light would work as well, BTW. If you don't have one, you can improvise one with a automotive bulb.
 
I first read this sentence as "My brother was my multimeter..." and had this image of a little kid sticking his tongue out as you touched wires to it, looking for the hot wire. ⚡🤪

A test light would work as well, BTW. If you don't have one, you can improvise one with an automotive bulb.
lol, well, he’d probably agree that he was the multimeter as well but he’s a drama queen. 😂
 
Harbor Freight also sometimes has a coupon for free DMMs with a purchase, and they have some cheap options.

As I sit here periodically watching .1mv changes on a ~12V device on my HP 3478a(5 1/2 digit lab grade multimeter) I have to grudgingly admit that the cheap HF ones are surprisingly good. They certainly will tell you if a wire is positive or negative, and if the voltage is in the range it should be. The cheapies I have agree with my high end bench meters to the resolution they're readable.
 
Harbor Freight also sometimes has a coupon for free DMMs with a purchase, and they have some cheap options.

As I sit here periodically watching .1mv changes on a ~12V device on my HP 3478a(5 1/2 digit lab grade multimeter) I have to grudgingly admit that the cheap HF ones are surprisingly good. They certainly will tell you if a wire is positive or negative, and if the voltage is in the range it should be. The cheapies I have agree with my high end bench meters to the resolution they're readable.
I wish I had a HF closer but it’s two hours to the nearest one for me.
 
Harbor Freight also sometimes has a coupon for free DMMs with a purchase, and they have some cheap options.

As I sit here periodically watching .1mv changes on a ~12V device on my HP 3478a(5 1/2 digit lab grade multimeter) I have to grudgingly admit that the cheap HF ones are surprisingly good. They certainly will tell you if a wire is positive or negative, and if the voltage is in the range it should be. The cheapies I have agree with my high end bench meters to the resolution they're readable.
yep the HF meters are definatly good enough for what hes doing. A $2 test light will work also.

Rykertest... Those scotch lock connectors are the worst.I will even say that they are worse than just shoving a bare wire into a connector and plugging it back in
 
Can you visually trace the white wire and white/black stripe wire back to the cigarette lighter? If so, the wire feeding the center contact on the cigarette lighter is the positive (+) wire. That is the industry standard designed to minimize the possibility of shorting out the electrical circuit due to inadvertent contact grounding of the outer rim of the cigarette lighter receptacle. The same electrical code criteria applies for incandescent bulbs lamp receptacles in your home.

OK, I just looked it up for you. The gray wire is positive (+) and the white/black stripe wire is negative (-) to battery ground. As such, connect the red wire to gray and the black wire to white/black stripe. Wiring schematic is shown below.
1711821382949.jpg
 
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Can you visually trace the white wire and white/black stripe wire back to the cigarette lighter? If so, the wire feeding the center contact on the cigarette lighter is the positive (+) wire. That is the industry standard designed to minimize the possibility of shorting out the electrical circuit due to inadvertent contact grounding of the outer rim of the cigarette lighter receptacle. The same electrical code criteria applies for incandescent bulbs lamp receptacles in your home.

OK, I just looked it up for you. The gray wire is positive (+) and the white/black stripe wire is negative (-) to battery ground. As such, connect the red wire to gray and the black wire to white/black stripe. Wiring schematic is shown below.
View attachment 211213
Awesome! Thank you so much. I found some heat shrink marine connectors in my toolbox I’ll use vs the crimp on. I assume that would be a better choice? Thanks for everyone’s assistance.
 
Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace hardware all have multimeters, and they start at reasonable prices like $20 and go up from there. I used a $10 radio shack “pocket sized” MM for *years*, slightly larger than a business card, with permanently attached leads. You can get a lot of use out of a cheaper meter.
 
Harbor Freight also sometimes has a coupon for free DMMs with a purchase, and they have some cheap options.

As I sit here periodically watching .1mv changes on a ~12V device on my HP 3478a(5 1/2 digit lab grade multimeter) I have to grudgingly admit that the cheap HF ones are surprisingly good. They certainly will tell you if a wire is positive or negative, and if the voltage is in the range it should be. The cheapies I have agree with my high end bench meters to the resolution they're readable.
Same with digital calipers...I bought a cheap $8 one off eBay just to compare with my Mitutoyo and I'll be darn it was very close and repeatable readings. But it is not very smooth in operation...all gritty and sticky. I hear if you disassemble and clean them then relube they work much better...
 
Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace hardware all have multimeters, and they start at reasonable prices like $20 and go up from there. I used a $10 radio shack “pocket sized” MM for *years*, slightly larger than a business card, with permanently attached leads. You can get a lot of use out of a cheaper meter.
This one?

20240331_153427_resized.jpg
 
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