Concrete grout

[Amkeer]

https://www.riversidesheetmetal.net/flashing-metal/parapet-wall-cap/

Naturally this would be placed under the sill not on top. You also don't need the lip on the inside actually it would be better if it wasn't. You would better with two pieces since the block wall is probably not perfectly straight.

I was better explaining this in the field with scrap paper than typing it here.

 

[MNgopher]

You did well.

The custom mix is pretty much what would be mixed up on site instead of buying a quickcrete type mix. And the "flow" into the cells below is part of why you use a mix without the aggregate. The mix just flows around things more uniformly without as many pockets and voids.

 

[JHZR2]

I would forget the visqueen as it will hold moisture and cause problems over time. They make a material for sill plates that will breathe its probably not needed.

The only thing I would have done different is a number 5 bar but with that vintage block it would have probably caused more problems.

Have termite company trench and treat after you are 80% complete.

HD sells 5.5" Owens Corning foam-ish material for the sill plate isolation/insulation. Dont need the insulation

What do you mean by number 5 bar?

I had thought about putting rebar in there, but I feared that the gap between the L bolt and rebar might be small and be an issue... Weve done a number, but I have a LONG back wall on the garage, so many more to go, if I want to use some rebar in there...

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

HD sells 5.5" Owens Corning foam-ish material for the sill plate isolation/insulation. Dont need the insulation

What do you mean by number 5 bar?

I had thought about putting rebar in there, but I feared that the gap between the L bolt and rebar might be small and be an issue... Weve done a number, but I have a LONG back wall on the garage, so many more to go, if I want to use some rebar in there...

Most likely #5 rebar

I can see where it would be a good idea and nice addition but you said this is a two stack block so I personally don't see it as necessary with this being a repair and not new construction- but that's a "more than one correct way to do this" thing.

Depending on how long, it might be advisable to do a tie in ( anchor) to the actual slab in 2-3 places on that run but with the weight of the wall you will almost certainly be fine there too.

 

[MNgopher]

Two stack block there should be no need for rebar. Set the anchors in grout and go...

 

[doitmyself]

Out of curiosity, why are you putting visqueen between the block and treated lumber sill?

Depending on your answer, another better product would be pond liner cut to width. Unlike visqueen, when it is crushed it is less apt to puncture.

 

[JHZR2]

Out of curiosity, why are you putting visqueen between the block and treated lumber sill?

Depending on your answer, another better product would be pond liner cut to width. Unlike visqueen, when it is crushed it is less apt to puncture.

I think visqueen is a plastic sheeting?

I was going to put 6 mil plastic between the block and sill just to reduce moisture transfer.

instead I put the rolled foam that is designed for this.

at $8 for 50 feet, why not if it helps keep the sill dryer?

 

[Amkeer]

Visqueen is plastic sheeting and number 5 is 5/8 rebar which probably isn't a good idea in your case. The metal flashing would act as a barrier for termites and moisture.

 

[PimTac]

The foam is the better option. Visqueen can block moisture transfer and it can also hold moisture as well. Condensation is a big issue with it. Also it won’t hold up to UV rays so eventually it will deteriorate.

 

[MNgopher]

We use the rolled foam here and no metal. We also do not have termites though...

 

[andyd]

Much good advice sent your way Plz post your progress