Block garage to wood joint

[JHZR2]

Our 1935 home has a concrete block garage, and the doors for both side entry as well as the garage doors themselves, all are made out of wood. All the doors are in good shape, but the frame that makes the connection points from where the garage side door (a regular entry door not a real garage door) itself is supported and where the frame connects to the block has issues. I would like to know how to seal the gap between the wood strip on the side of our door (that makes the doorframe) on the garage and the block that makes up the concrete. It looks like it's a solid concrete block - its not like a cinderblock that you would buy at Home Depot. it would be important because right now we have a quarter to a half inch gap. It looks like the gap was originally filled with some sort of light cement but it could not adapt to the expansion and contraction within the gap. We need to have something I can fill in the gap better. I know when there is concrete to some other material in a big gap sometimes there is a type of very soft, flexible caulking type material that Ive seen, but dont know what it is. Also the wood along the side of the garage door is is of age and has a bit dry rot. It would also be useful to know how the best means of attaching wood to the concrete block would be to shure this or replacement wood up properly. Thanks!

 

[JimPghPA]

Besides some kind of anchors that drill and mount into the concrete block, if you are looking for something to fill the gap, and have some give, and add some strength, a few years ago I used a product that comes in a caulking gun cartage called "Big-Stretch” caulk by sashco. Give it a few days to dry, and then you can paint over it. Local hardware store had it.

 

[JimPghPA]

As for the dry rot wood, besides replacing it which is always the best way to fix it, you could get some fiber-glass resin that is normally used with fiber-glass cloth and hit the wood with it. But check for termites and carpenter-ants and treat for them if you have them. You probably will require a good universal primer like “Stix” over the fiber-glass resin before you will be able to get any paint to stick to it. Getting a bit into the cold weather to be doing this kind of stuff. The fiber-glass resin might not cure if it is too cold.

 

[doitmyself]

The pros around my neck of the woods always use polyurethane caulk whenever concrete is involved. Use foam backing rod behind it. I think Home Depot has this well regarded product: http://www.northlandconstruction.com/product/sikaflex-1a-tube/ Minwax makes a rotted wood repair kit (never used it), but splicing in new wood is a good alternative: http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler Tapcon screws are handy for diy attaching wood to concrete: http://www.concretescrews.com/concrete-screw-installation.aspx

 

[JHZR2]

Thanks! great info. Is that sikaflex stuff like the soft stuff that is used here:

 

[doitmyself]

I "think" so. It does set up and get rubber like. At work, I just had some cracks in our concrete fueling pad repaired and that is what they (concrete repair co.) used. Except, on flat horizontal cracks they used the self leveling type, which is more liquid. Our Physical Plant people use a brand called Tremco Dyamonic FC, which I have seen in some "brick" stores too. http://www.tremcosealants.com/commercial/products/product_detail.asp?id=176 Just go to a commercial brick/masonary store if you have one and get a commercial polyurethane product. It takes a bit of care to apply, since it is not water based and cannot be wiped off easily (maybe there is a solvent).