Any chance you have a manual or a part number for the air filter? If not, I can just take it to compare to a new one.
It looks like a CH pump but it is a WW Grainger house brand- go to them for the part # then locally source.
Any chance you have a manual or a part number for the air filter? If not, I can just take it to compare to a new one.
At a way good price and qualityMight take a day but think I find you one
Is it true the newer campbell hausfeld can take 10w30 synthetic.
That's it! Thanks! You just saved me a bunch of time in a part store hunting for the right one. It crosses to a NAPA Gold 2374. I thought it was some K&N style filter he put on there for better airflow or to save money. Nope. That's actually how they all are for this application. Strange.P05050A is a part number that keeps coming up for that mode ecompressedair is who I used for numerous things including filters I actually would give them a call to be sure for fit.
I would just find a reputable ISO100 compressor oil for final fill and call it a day.I have no clue why, but I had the toughest debate with myself on which oil to use when I changed it out tonight. I first went for the Mobil 5000 5W-30 and the VWB 10W-30. After a bit of thought I put them back. I spent another 5 minutes pondering then grabbed the 5000 again along with a quart of Mobil Super Synthetic 10W-30 (my oldest bottles of Super Syn). I was happy with keeping the brands the same at least. I drained the old oil out. It wasn't terrible, and it's color was respectable, but it smelled ancient and had a bunch of floating junk in it that clearly didn't belong. At that point I got curious and poured out what was left of the mystery top-up oil. I discovered it was actually in a very old bottle (greenish yellow) of Poulan Bar & Chain Oil. I doubt that's what it was, it smelled like a cheap old motor oil to me. Anyway, when I poured it out, it was very thick. It poured like a 20W-50. I'm guessing it was some cheap XW-30 that got mixed in with some residual bar & chain oil. Once it was down to the last few drops, it was dripping out like the last few drops from a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It was stringy! So glad I changed it now. Who knows what was actually in there...
Once it was time to refill, I called yet another audible. I put both types of Mobil back, thought about it for 10 more minutes and finally decided to pull the trigger on GTX 10W-30. I had 3 stray quarts, and decided to burn two of them out. After I poured almost two full quarts in, I realized I made the right call because I forgot it needs to be topped up now and then. So I have 1 last quart for top-up. I think it worked out perfect. Now I'll keep my eyes peeled for ND30 on the cheap. If I can find it, great. If not, I think I'll use Super Syn 10W-30 on the next one. I expect it will strain a little less on cold starts. We'll see. Thanks to all of you for your input.
I would just find a reputable ISO100 compressor oil for final fill and call it a day.
Correct but not all SAE30 oils are dedicated compressor oils.Remember, ISO 100 is SAE 30 for all intent and purpose
Interesting lol I’ll have to check hopefully haven’t damaged it I never knew it needed oil. They don’t teach compressor maintenance in automotive classes lol.I'm half asleep, but I can't think of a compressor that doesn't have oil. Now, some are designed to be "oil-less" (meaning you [supposedly] never have to worry about it, a.k.a. lifetime fluid like newer transmissions). But just like newer 'non-serviceable' transmissions, they require a lubricant to function. We all know oil has a lifespan...
It's alright. Education always has holes. They teach mechanics to maintain cars but not their equipment that they use daily. They teach you how to rebuild engines, but there's not an ounce of tribology in that class. They teach kids algebra but not how to manage their own numbers (finances). The world keeps turning...Interesting lol I’ll have to check hopefully haven’t damaged it I never knew it needed oil. They don’t teach compressor maintenance in automotive classes lol.
Exactly how I feel. My compressor is tucked over in the corner and that’s how I have always had it and my dad has a bunch of stuff on it and in front of it so I rarely ever see it besides the cord and hoses. The ones at school were in a room next to the shop which we were not allowed to go in because they didn’t want us to get hurt so I have never really paid attention to that kind of stuff.It's alright. Education always has holes. They teach mechanics to maintain cars but not their equipment that they use daily. They teach you how to rebuild engines, but there's not an ounce of tribology in that class. They teach kids algebra but not how to manage their own numbers (finances). The world keeps turning...
Correct but not all SAE30 oils are dedicated compressor oils.
I also use an auto drain. I leave the pet cock on the bottom of the tank slightly open all the time.While agonizing over your particular oil flavor don’t get so focused as to forget the real compressor killer, water in the tank. Since “ I just love doing after job cleanup “ said no one ever, be sure to put an auto drain on the compressor. It will greatly appreciate the help. The $10 HF works fine on mine. All I ever see is a brown stain on the floor and the tank when checked is dry as a bone.
I'm half asleep, but I can't think of a compressor that doesn't have oil. Now, some are designed to be "oil-less" (meaning you [supposedly] never have to worry about it, a.k.a. lifetime fluid like newer transmissions). But just like newer 'non-serviceable' transmissions, they require a lubricant to function. We all know oil has a lifespan...