Compressor oil?

Messages
1,438
Is it true the newer campbell hausfeld can take 10w30 synthetic. I read a manual where Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic is suitable. Mobil had to pay a pretty penny to get their name on a page. But anyways.
 
Messages
1,967
Location
USA
Is it true the newer campbell hausfeld can take 10w30 synthetic.

Not getting into semantics but they "always" have been able to use it with no ill effect ( worst problem would be a shorter change interval for high duty cycle units) whether the manual stated it or not. ( for a recip)- There's no new engineering or metallurgy where its now "ok" ( as it is often conventionally told) whereas it used not to be "ok".

With VII and a quality oil- it still meets the standard of a 30 ( at temp) whether the pump is inside or outside ( the W) and that has never changed.

Plus many of these manuals have not gone through an engineering update in decades ( if ever)- just continuous copy pasta and we all know recipes have changed as well as almost all the chemistry since the "old days".

I say that because I have to actually "challenge" older legacy OEM IOM's against newer lubricants when these things arise.
 
Messages
338
P05050A is a part number that keeps coming up for that mode ecompressedair is who I used for numerous things including filters I actually would give them a call to be sure for fit.
 

OilMagnate

Thread starter
Messages
308
Location
Oklahoma
P05050A is a part number that keeps coming up for that mode ecompressedair is who I used for numerous things including filters I actually would give them a call to be sure for fit.
That's it! Thanks! You just saved me a bunch of time in a part store hunting for the right one. It crosses to a NAPA Gold 2374. I thought it was some K&N style filter he put on there for better airflow or to save money. Nope. That's actually how they all are for this application. Strange.
 

OilMagnate

Thread starter
Messages
308
Location
Oklahoma
I have no clue why, but I had the toughest debate with myself on which oil to use when I changed it out tonight. I first went for the Mobil 5000 5W-30 and the VWB 10W-30. After a bit of thought I put them back. I spent another 5 minutes pondering then grabbed the 5000 again along with a quart of Mobil Super Synthetic 10W-30 (my oldest bottles of Super Syn). I was happy with keeping the brands the same at least. I drained the old oil out. It wasn't terrible, and it's color was respectable, but it smelled ancient and had a bunch of floating junk in it that clearly didn't belong. At that point I got curious and poured out what was left of the mystery top-up oil. I discovered it was actually in a very old bottle (greenish yellow) of Poulan Bar & Chain Oil. I doubt that's what it was, it smelled like a cheap old motor oil to me. Anyway, when I poured it out, it was very thick. It poured like a 20W-50. I'm guessing it was some cheap XW-30 that got mixed in with some residual bar & chain oil. Once it was down to the last few drops, it was dripping out like the last few drops from a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It was stringy! So glad I changed it now. Who knows what was actually in there...

Once it was time to refill, I called yet another audible. I put both types of Mobil back, thought about it for 10 more minutes and finally decided to pull the trigger on GTX 10W-30. I had 3 stray quarts, and decided to burn two of them out. After I poured almost two full quarts in, I realized I made the right call because I forgot it needs to be topped up now and then. So I have 1 last quart for top-up. I think it worked out perfect. Now I'll keep my eyes peeled for ND30 on the cheap. If I can find it, great. If not, I think I'll use Super Syn 10W-30 on the next one. I expect it will strain a little less on cold starts. We'll see. Thanks to all of you for your input.
 

OilMagnate

Thread starter
Messages
308
Location
Oklahoma
I'm half asleep, but I can't think of a compressor that doesn't have oil. Now, some are designed to be "oil-less" (meaning you [supposedly] never have to worry about it, a.k.a. lifetime fluid like newer transmissions). But just like newer 'non-serviceable' transmissions, they require a lubricant to function. We all know oil has a lifespan...
 
Messages
338
I have no clue why, but I had the toughest debate with myself on which oil to use when I changed it out tonight. I first went for the Mobil 5000 5W-30 and the VWB 10W-30. After a bit of thought I put them back. I spent another 5 minutes pondering then grabbed the 5000 again along with a quart of Mobil Super Synthetic 10W-30 (my oldest bottles of Super Syn). I was happy with keeping the brands the same at least. I drained the old oil out. It wasn't terrible, and it's color was respectable, but it smelled ancient and had a bunch of floating junk in it that clearly didn't belong. At that point I got curious and poured out what was left of the mystery top-up oil. I discovered it was actually in a very old bottle (greenish yellow) of Poulan Bar & Chain Oil. I doubt that's what it was, it smelled like a cheap old motor oil to me. Anyway, when I poured it out, it was very thick. It poured like a 20W-50. I'm guessing it was some cheap XW-30 that got mixed in with some residual bar & chain oil. Once it was down to the last few drops, it was dripping out like the last few drops from a bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It was stringy! So glad I changed it now. Who knows what was actually in there...

Once it was time to refill, I called yet another audible. I put both types of Mobil back, thought about it for 10 more minutes and finally decided to pull the trigger on GTX 10W-30. I had 3 stray quarts, and decided to burn two of them out. After I poured almost two full quarts in, I realized I made the right call because I forgot it needs to be topped up now and then. So I have 1 last quart for top-up. I think it worked out perfect. Now I'll keep my eyes peeled for ND30 on the cheap. If I can find it, great. If not, I think I'll use Super Syn 10W-30 on the next one. I expect it will strain a little less on cold starts. We'll see. Thanks to all of you for your input.
I would just find a reputable ISO100 compressor oil for final fill and call it a day.
 
Messages
1,019
Location
Northern New York
While agonizing over your particular oil flavor don’t get so focused as to forget the real compressor killer, water in the tank. Since “ I just love doing after job cleanup “ said no one ever, be sure to put an auto drain on the compressor. It will greatly appreciate the help. The $10 HF works fine on mine. All I ever see is a brown stain on the floor and the tank when checked is dry as a bone.
 
Messages
3,502
Location
Roanoke Virginia
I'm half asleep, but I can't think of a compressor that doesn't have oil. Now, some are designed to be "oil-less" (meaning you [supposedly] never have to worry about it, a.k.a. lifetime fluid like newer transmissions). But just like newer 'non-serviceable' transmissions, they require a lubricant to function. We all know oil has a lifespan...
Interesting lol I’ll have to check hopefully haven’t damaged it I never knew it needed oil. They don’t teach compressor maintenance in automotive classes lol.
 

OilMagnate

Thread starter
Messages
308
Location
Oklahoma
Interesting lol I’ll have to check hopefully haven’t damaged it I never knew it needed oil. They don’t teach compressor maintenance in automotive classes lol.
It's alright. Education always has holes. They teach mechanics to maintain cars but not their equipment that they use daily. They teach you how to rebuild engines, but there's not an ounce of tribology in that class. They teach kids algebra but not how to manage their own numbers (finances). The world keeps turning...
 
Messages
3,502
Location
Roanoke Virginia
It's alright. Education always has holes. They teach mechanics to maintain cars but not their equipment that they use daily. They teach you how to rebuild engines, but there's not an ounce of tribology in that class. They teach kids algebra but not how to manage their own numbers (finances). The world keeps turning...
Exactly how I feel. My compressor is tucked over in the corner and that’s how I have always had it and my dad has a bunch of stuff on it and in front of it so I rarely ever see it besides the cord and hoses. The ones at school were in a room next to the shop which we were not allowed to go in because they didn’t want us to get hurt so I have never really paid attention to that kind of stuff.
 
Messages
1,967
Location
USA
Correct but not all SAE30 oils are dedicated compressor oils.

There is no such thing as a "dedicated compressor oil" outside of a creative marketing and sales plan.

Let no one fool you, a compressor is no mechanically different in its lubrication requirements than any other type of reciprocating or like machine.

There are no "special requirements" or "secret sauces" or any other hype
 
Messages
2,109
Location
South Carolina
While agonizing over your particular oil flavor don’t get so focused as to forget the real compressor killer, water in the tank. Since “ I just love doing after job cleanup “ said no one ever, be sure to put an auto drain on the compressor. It will greatly appreciate the help. The $10 HF works fine on mine. All I ever see is a brown stain on the floor and the tank when checked is dry as a bone.
I also use an auto drain. I leave the pet cock on the bottom of the tank slightly open all the time.
 
Messages
5,242
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I'm half asleep, but I can't think of a compressor that doesn't have oil. Now, some are designed to be "oil-less" (meaning you [supposedly] never have to worry about it, a.k.a. lifetime fluid like newer transmissions). But just like newer 'non-serviceable' transmissions, they require a lubricant to function. We all know oil has a lifespan...

Nope....Literally oil-less. The crank uses sealed bearings & the piston uses Teflon sealing rings. I laugh everytime I see one!
 
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