I think you mixed up @The Critic with @Trav .Careful Trav gonna be on your arse for that responses.
In that case we have the customer initial the service order refusing the brake fluid change.
Compressing pistons
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No I dont think so ? read again and explain.
I said to TC jokingly watch out for Trav
The Critic and I both are Techs both work in a shop, so for the most part we agree on most service procedures?
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Previous owner of the jetta thrashed into a curb and knocked out the back and had to rebuild the brake system for that area, they used brake fluid from a 1999 Ford F150 that had 193,000 miles on it since they didn't want to buy new brake fluid and topped it off with dot 3 regular at 23,000 miles, no brake fluid change since then and now its me who is.
Oh well will you look at that. FTR I've seen @Trav in action, calling him an expert would be an understatement. The man is a master mechanic/craftsman, along with @clinebarger. Probably the best two on this site. No disrespect intended to anyone else, just my opinion after years of being here, and interacting with them.
On my vehicles I just use a c clamp and compress the piston in then install the new pads. Done deal, a fluid flush is a completely different service for me and done only when I see it’s needed. My main concern on a brake job is quality parts, and making sure everything is lubed well with the sliders working properly. Always remember to loosen the cap and remove some brake fluid before starting a brake job so you don’t overflow the reservoir. Now if the fluid was due I would flush it as well of coarse.
I think we all bring our own unique perspectives. Credibility and expertise is for the reader to decide. I will personally vouch for @Trav's expertise, even if his perspective is sometimes different than mine. I think his standards are probably a bit different (and arguably higher) since he comes from the European Auto Repair environment which is quite different than the zoo in North America.
Dark fluid, although I think Supertech likes to turn green? Haven’t had a hose go yet, but I usually don’t keep cars that long.
Once a year I do take brakes apart and sand all the rust off the sliding surfaces. My Tundra was awful, it would lose brakes if I didn’t.
The green could be algae forming in water saturated brake fluid, the color of the lube used during MC assemble or copper leeching from wet brake fluid in contact with copper lines/parts if any are used.
If its slimy under the cap flush the fluid out, that means the fluid is so saturated corrosion in the system can really get going. It may take a few flushes over time to remove it.
You and I both live and work in totally different environments and we both understand that. I wouldn't expect you to run into lots of the evil things we run into every single day, the rotten fasteners, rusted through parts, having to use a smoke wrench, cutoff wheel, drill bits, taps and die, extractors, nut crackers on almost every job on a car 5 years old and older.I think we all bring our own unique perspectives. Credibility and expertise is for the reader to decide. I will personally vouch for @Trav's expertise, even if his perspective is sometimes different than mine. I think his standards are probably a bit different (and arguably higher) since he comes from the European Auto Repair environment which is quite different than the zoo in North America.
And Trav has been in the shop far longer.
This thread has answered the OP question.
Since NitroM3 has taken into an unproductive, personal criticism, I'm locking it here.
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