Complete Brake Overhaul

[Herz]

I plan on doing a complete brake overhaul on my 4.3 singlecab. It is running the same brakes that it came with from the factory.

Although the brakes still "brake" fine I plan on doing a full blown brake replacement. Replace all hardware, turn rotors (got 4 disc brake,) replace all brake fluid with quality brake fluid, clean the calipers, replace my parking brake shoes (parking brake hasnt worked in 3 years,) and replace all pads with a quality brake pad.

What brand brake pads do you guys reccomend?

 

[Bob Woods]

I have a 2002 with 77000 and my pads have many miles left on them. I thinking about going the the dealer and get OEM replacement parts since what GM put on have worked so great.

 

[DieselTech]

OEM

 

[DeeAgeaux]

Autozone Duralast Gold CMax are premium ceramic pads. Fronts are about $55 and come with a Limited Lifetime Warranty. As long as YOU own the truck they guarantee the pads ;they don't transfer to a new owner.

Bendix CT3 pads are the same type and about the same money. You get a coupon(after you mail in the offer form with upc code) for your next pads on the same truck. Again, if you still own the truck about 100k miles later you get a free set of new pads.

There is nothing special about OEM. GM does not make brake pads they subcontract to a supplier.


Most Benidix pads are made in the USA but a few are made in Mexcio. The Duralast are made all over the place including China. You may want to check the box at Autozone if that is important to you.

I think the Bendix pads are a little better but claiming new pads at Autozone is easier. You just walk into the store with the old pads and they have you in their computer database.

 

[Jason2007]

I have been running Summit Racings brand Ceramics (Made by PBR) on my 07 Mustang GT since April and they work very well with hardly any dust and zero noise. They were only like $40.00

 

[eljefino]

If your rotors are good don't bother turning them. I bet your e-brake shoes are fine but something's out of adjustment. Eg the cable stretched.

 

[cos]

The bottom line is: any brands premium pad and rotor is going to serve you well. I personally prefer HAWK HPS and Raybestos "Advanced Technology", both are far superior to the OEM pads they replaced! The current best bang for the buck in rotors is the Centric brand. Your lowest price will probably be Rock Auto.

 

[38sho]

Wagner Thermoquiet, Raybestos advance line, or check into TireRack.com

sometimes they have close out deals there, I once got a set of ceramic pads for 7 bucks.

they will also have some different brands for more severe duty use for trucks and stuff

I also like the EBC brand for braking performance

Wagner's or Raybestos are probably best bet for daily driver comfort

 

[Herz]

Thank you for the suggestions, when I get around to doing it I will provide pictures.

 

[mechtech2]

MAke sure your rotors have a nice finish on them. Smoother the better.
If possible, get a non directional finish on them.
And clean the hub of rust , and the rotor surface where they mate [also the wheel].
Your parking brake problems may be in the cables. Check them for free movement while things are apart.
Parking brakes should be used all the time, or never.

 

[doitmyself]

defectes' "full blown brake replacement" just sounds like the CORRECT routine brake job to me. Doing a "pad slap" seems like false economy, unless you are doing it to a beater that you intend to sell immediately.

mechtec, you say that "smoother is better", yet many recommend sanding the rotor with 150 grit paper to get a semi smooth directional finish. Comments?

 

[labman]

I have to agree. A full job includes rebuilding/replacing the caliper to renew old, worn rubber parts. Also gets a fresh coat of lube on the piston.

 

[Herz]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
MAke sure your rotors have a nice finish on them. Smoother the better.
If possible, get a non directional finish on them.
And clean the hub of rust , and the rotor surface where they mate [also the wheel].
Your parking brake problems may be in the cables. Check them for free movement while things are apart.
Parking brakes should be used all the time, or never.


I always sand my rotors even after turning them, also I always use my Parking brake since my truck is a stick.

I also do intend to rebuild and clean up the calipers, I forgot to include this in my original post.

 

[chad8]

Be sure you clean out and re-grease grease the caliper slider pins with a good quality synthetic grease. this is a very important overlooked step.your brake job can last years longer if the sliders do not rust and freeze up. synthetic grease also takes heat much better.
Also look into the hawk clearance center on ebay or direct to the company. I found hps pads for $25 that sell for $78 locally for the wife's Taurus.
They are lifetime guaranteed and every time I ask the wife how they are doing , she relays a story about how she just had to stop and she got thrown into the dash because the pads stopped so well. This is my first experience with hawk and I am sold.
I have had uneven results with Reybestos . some good some terrible (squeaking). Duralast gold stop o.k. and have a great guarantee but overpriced for what you get in stopping power. wagner quiets are well engineered (fit well )but do fade a bit when i am towing my boat . .still a decent pad.
There is nothing wrong with O.E.M. pads but the replacement pads sold at the dealers as O.E.M. are not always the same pads your vehicle came with. The parts guys who work at the dealers usually know which ones are the "real" ones or the box may give a clue.
Car companies , like everyone else , cheap out a bit on replacement parts sometimes. They spec a slightly different material or give the manufacturing to an authorized (china) company. Be careful.

 

[gaswrench]

Never "pad slap".Unless like someone said "its a beater".Or youre gettin rid of it. You'll never get the mileage out of em and braking is reduced. You'll pay for it later in calipers,front end and steering components.
Measure,("mike") the rotors to see how much can be cut and give direction to the tech cuttin them on the lathe. Hopefully he chucks em up properly on the lathe and they dont come back square! I usually tip him and seek him out every time.
Semi metallics have great grab and are hard to beat for the $$ but they're the harshest on rotors. Carbon metallics run alot cooler, dust less and give good mileage. Ceramics are more $$,cooler,give excellent braking but your rotors better be new or perfectly cut. GM is using alot of ceramics as original equipment now. Of course your mileage may vary!

 

[mechtech2]

With rotors that are cut, I see too rough almost all the time.
Virtually never too smooth.
Sure, you do want some pattern on them for quick pad seating.
What I mean is no heavy lines from a fast rotor cut.

^^chad8 had a huge find^^! If you can get Hawk pads for $25, go for it!!

 

[Herz]

Well I want to stick with semi-metallic since those are the type of brakes that came with my sierra, however if I can find a good set of brakes for 25 bucks I wont look back!

I always use NAPA silicone brake grease. I think its called sil-glyde. It has been a while since I have done brakes.

I will go to the stealership and see if the pads they got are the same.

 

[JustinC25]

+1 on doing a proper brake job, Servicing and lubing the caliper mounts. You should NEVER do just a pad slap, even on a beater, or a car you're gonna sell. Take the extra 20 minutes to service the caliper mounts, and pins. Anything worth doing is worth doing well.

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

after 7 years and 125K i'd just get rebuilt calipers, new rotors and pads and bleed it. after that many miles, lubing the pins won't really be enough. there's probably gunk on the piston, seals, etc.

 

[artificialist]

Get the estimated price on the parking brake shoe, because on many older vehicles I work on, the parking brake shoe falls to pieces when I pull the drum off.