Complaint about aftermarket parts

And often they are not.

For example just because Denso sells a radiator under their own brand on the aftermarket/RockAuto does not mean that radiator is identical to the radiator Denso manufactures for Toyota as the OEM radiator - which has Toyota's name stamped on it. Same is seen with Aisin water pumps, fan pulleys, etc. Denso in particular is known to manufacture their aftermarket radiators in China / Taiwan, but order OEM through Toyota and you get one made in the USA. Which one do you think was built to a higher (Toyota's) standard?
So you just confirmed - your speculating. You might pay 3X the price and get the same thing. Or not? So its the perfect BITOG topic - we can argue it forever.

People compare the denso they got today from the one they took out and there different. But if they ordered from the OEM it might have been different also. Parts change over time depending on production.

People want to argue this all the time, but I can tell you professionally there are no real guarantees. Do your research. People like to think they pay 3X and get better. Sometimes. Sometimes not.

Yes if its the same price or close or even sometimes 2X i buy OEM. It depends on the part.

I once was having thermostat problems on my 2002 GC. I got one from AAP, one from NAPA, and an OEM. Price was $6, $12 and $40. I can guarantee they were all from the same factory right down to the stamping marks where the die had been repaired and the hold marks from the assembly jig. I have some professional expertise in these areas. And they were all garbage. I solved my problem with a NOS one from ebay when they were made differently.
 
I was only going by what information the OP gave for his vehicle. Thank you for correcting the inaccuracy. Maybe you can pony up additional part numbers to assist the OP.

He showed the lower column and those all had the same part number across the board while the manual shift with the upper attachment was additional cost, that's not what he showed in his picture.
For the manual adjust column, the illustration does not show the 3B676 by itself so there is no available lower shaft. This is why we always use VINs, or at least try to, when looking up parts. There are 2 different columns for the manual adjust. BA8Z-3C52-H was updated to BA8Z-3C529-K for build dates 2011-04-06 to 2019-12-02 which is obsolete and then DA8Z-3C529-F for build dates 2012-02-29 through 2019-02-11. Some voodoo going on there with the overlapping dates so the VIN would bring up the BOM and we can go based on that.

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The power column shows the shaft by itself and then that column has different part numbers. Also notice how there is a 3B676 in the power column illustration and it isn't in the manual one? That means it isn't offered by itself. Now you can probably get the engineering number off the old part and cross it over, but officially it isn't available outside of the column for some reason.

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I have been burned plenty of times with aftermarket parts. On my Silverado the AC high side charge port was leaking. I ordered the 4 Seasons line and it looked right but it had what seemed like a few extra inches of tubing that no amount of bending would fix. Also had an Omnicraft condenser from the huge firesale Ford had when they ended the experiment with Omnicraft that might have fit, but it was damaged in the box. Ended up getting GM Genuine replacements and they literally fell right into place.
 
So, this is a pretty amusing one, just to add to the theme of the thread, but of course my son used quite a few aftermarket parts when he was getting his '03 Ranger on the road, including shocks from Rock Auto. Well, the rubber shock isolators on the front shocks? Complete trash, split and now the passenger side is missing the top one :ROFLMAO:

Luckily, Energy Suspension (also aftermarket, lol) makes some nice poly replacements that I'm going to have him purchase.
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But yeah, it's a roll of the dice for sure!
 
So, this is a pretty amusing one, just to add to the theme of the thread, but of course my son used quite a few aftermarket parts when he was getting his '03 Ranger on the road, including shocks from Rock Auto. Well, the rubber shock isolators on the front shocks? Complete trash, split and now the passenger side is missing the top one :ROFLMAO:

Luckily, Energy Suspension (also aftermarket, lol) makes some nice poly replacements that I'm going to have him purchase.
View attachment 289808

But yeah, it's a roll of the dice for sure!
These look like Monroe shock isolators
 
So, this is a pretty amusing one, just to add to the theme of the thread, but of course my son used quite a few aftermarket parts when he was getting his '03 Ranger on the road, including shocks from Rock Auto. Well, the rubber shock isolators on the front shocks? Complete trash, split and now the passenger side is missing the top one :ROFLMAO:

Luckily, Energy Suspension (also aftermarket, lol) makes some nice poly replacements that I'm going to have him purchase.
View attachment 289808

But yeah, it's a roll of the dice for sure!
What brand were the originals?
 
Always something along the lines of if the original part was so good why am I replacing it
Because I live in the rust belt. The sudden sharp and violent impacts chew up the suspension so much that a "front end rebuild" is a thing over here that happens multiple times over the life of a vehicle. The road salt and high humidity can be so bad that the rust can eat AROUND the various seals in the car.
So yeah maybe Im willing to risk going with an aftermarket sintered metal bearing because in my particular scenario it will last longer than OEM with PTFE/plastic bearing which go out faster around here.*


*This is an exception to the rule for the most part, OEM is the way to go 99% of the time.
 
First, Mr. Pete, sir, I hope you feel well vented. I'm presently slogging through a job that holds the distinction - for me - of most trips to the parts store for a single job. It was just going to be front calipers and rear shoes. I started, (and stopped) counting at around six or eight. Some my fault, some not. (I went through five Ozark calipers before I got two good ones.)
Anyway, I've been a silent participant and big fan of the BITOG forum for many years, and you, Mr. Pete, along with many of the members here, have made me laugh and helped me learn, and this thread you started share some misery has been a fun and enlightening read, and struck me as a great atmosphere to share a question that has been left on my back steps. So thanks for all of that.
If we only had OEM parts available, we would all be driving much newer cars because the old ones would be unfixable and crushed.

If you ever have to buy a part that is only available OEM you pay through the nose - like $2500 Ford F150 tail lights. Aftermarket supply keeps OEM prices honest.
100% true. "The Only Game in Town" always seems to enjoy the heck out of their advantage, and as an avowed skinflint, that makes me fume. So hooray for competition and be sure to sniff for chincy knock offs.
And also: Yes! Even more 100% true. I am not just a tightwad. I can also be a very fussy, particular fellow, and when I find something that suits me, I don't care to waste my time / energy / money testing endless alternatives just so I can describe why they aren't as good. So my favorite vehicles are the ones that have proven their timeless greatness, and are out of production. It is like living in a dream world whenever I can find what I need to keep using my old gem of a car, garden tractor, drill press or food processor, and not have to go sift through mountains of newly minted trash to look for something that's serviceable.

Rock Auto has the Motorcraft control arms for under $200 each. If you don't want to spend that much, the Delphi control arms are probably better than Mevotech and will actually fit. Delphi is an OE supplier.

Thank you for mentioning this, slacktide. You've given me the perfect segue. My 300,000 mile-young Savanna needed (well, still needs, actually), shocks, bushings, ball joints, a sway bar that isn't a two-piece, you know. Well while I was pressing bjs and bushings in and out my original lcas started to look older, and new Delphis started to look more cost effective. But now I find myself in a spot where I don't have the experience to know whether I'm looking at unacceptably sloppy manufacturing, or parts that are within tolerance and will come into place once installed.

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Right away I see that the bushings have not been pressed in fully [Maybe they don't have to be. Maybe what matters is the bushings' spacing, not their insertion depth. I mean, of course they've gotta be all the win. I'd have to be crazy to think otherwise. But who's done more of these, me or Delphi?], or squarely. I can push them in, but I don't think they'll end up square.
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Here you notice that the... collar? of arm-steel that surrounds the sleeves where they penetrate is inconsistent. In two spots, including center frame here, there is no shoulder. The bushings were not centered on the holes they were jammed through. [But maybe that doesn't matter. What do I know?]

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And did I mention that some of the finish work seems kind of rough? Where the pivot end of the arm transitions to the rolled edge body is cut pretty square, and not in a good way. That looks like a stress fracture waiting to happen. [What am I? A metallurgist? This thing might be coasting along at 10% of its fatigue strength.]

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And did I mention that when I bore-sight these things, none of the inner sleeves are bullseyed at their counterparts. I'm not even sure I could rack an arm hard enough to get a bolt through both its mounting holes. [But I'm also not sure I couldn't. Maybe mounting the arm is what lines things up. The overall distance between the bushings is about right. Maybe better than it would be if I seeated the bushings the rest of the way in - which I obviously must do. But what do I know, really?]
Alright, I'm out of time now. I'd love to proofread and revise and give you all the most clear and polished post possible, but instead I've gotta make like an aftermarket supplier and just call it good.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can point out what a fool I've been.

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I hate aftermarket. 99% garbage. But, I was in a pickle. Have an 03' Toyota Solara that needed all new engine mounts. Guess what. Toyota discontinued 2 of 3 mounts ????? Now what do I do ??? Took the elevator down to the basement floor of the aftermarket world. They had them. They are garbage. Vibration is insane. What was my choice ????? The OEM ones rotted out so bad they actually broke. So, I will be needing false teeth in a few years from vibration. Aftermarket kept the beater on the road. I even checked scrapyards. They don't keep anything older than 10 years. They told me they would run out of available space in the yards. So, aftermarket, unfortunately, is needed.
 
Cardone use to be good. Sad to see that. Another oldie was goodie that went to pot.
I like (well, hate) to check who's been bought and by whom. A hard won, stellar reputation is one of the hottest commodities. I'll never forget the first time I used a new Craftsman flatbar that turned out to be made of mild steel; it became a frowny arc. It's useless, but maybe someday I'll put it in a scrapbook. (Don't worry, if I press down hard on the cover it'll flatten right out.)
 
Well, they manufactured great calipers anyway. Still use them today ( until I saw the pic ),. but I used them going way back into the 80's and never had one leak at the piston seal. Guess I'll find another brand. Oh well. Life goes on :)
 
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