colder thermostat effect on oil

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I am waiting for a blackstone report after 3k oci. I may consider a specialty oil amisoil or royal purple wich I just saw in pep boys. Made me look twice.

What would be the best way to monitor oil temp??
 
Originally Posted By: djb
There is an oil-related point you are missing.

A 160F thermostat is pointless in 115F weather. Under load the coolant temperature will increase well above that temperature, until there is a high enough temperature differential between the radiator and coolant air.


Will it? If the ambient air temperature is 115 and the coolant coming out the thermostat is 160F, that's a 45-degree F temperature differential. Your skin is 98.6 degrees F... go stick your hand under a hot water faucet running at 143.6 degrees F and tell me if there's heat transfer across that 45-degree differential. Or since we're talking about transfer to air, tell me if you're comfortable sitting in a room that is 53.6F wearing nothing but shorts. In practical terms, 45 degrees is still a pretty healthy temperature differential

For *most* modern vehicles, a 45-degree heat source (radiator) to heat sink (ambient air) temperature differential is enough to transfer away all the heat energy lost from the combustion chamber to the cooling system. Heck, its enough in my grossly inefficient 1966 big-block engine with a mere 22" wide radiator.

Originally Posted By: djb

When the load is reduced, such as going slightly downhill or coming to a stop, the engine will quickly cool down to 160F.

The result will be many thermal cycles, not quite as severe as cold starts, but still putting high wear on tight clearance parts.


I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. There are already parts inside the engine (for example, the center of the piston crown extending down through the wrist pin) that see MUCH larger temperature swings between idle and full throttle all the time. Exhaust valve heads go from literally glowing (~1000+ degrees F) under load to a few hundred degrees at idle, every time you go from accelerating to idling. Yes, there will always be temperature micro-cycles during normal operation. But I personally don't think any engine is going to suffer noticeably from them- the engineers that built them know what goes on and account for it.

And let's get back to the point: we're trying to reduce detonation in a heavily loaded engine. You can do nothing and let detonation pound the bearings to butter, or you can subject parts to a small percentage increase in temperature cycling while alleviating the detonation. Which one OVERALL is better for engine longevity?


Originally Posted By: djb


I guessing someone is going to leap in with "get a bigger radiator to keep the temp at 160F". It won't work. The temperature differential has to be high enough to transfer the heat.


Well... it may not be PRACTICAL for every application, but its not that it absolutely won't work. The rate of heat energy transfer is proportional to both the size of the radiator AND the temperature differential. Increasing either one will increase rate of heat flow. Increasing the cooling air flow rate will also help. You can at least partially offset a lower temperature differential with more area and/or more air flow. IMO, most stock cooling systems have enough reserve capacity to do this under some surprisingly extreme ambient temps.

But my contention is that its not even necessary. Very few cars get out of the factory anymore without passing through the desert proving grounds and passing the tests.
 
I think you guys are mistaken it just opens a little sooner allowing the system to run a little cooler the coolant is still coming out at an average 185 temp.

I don't have e-fans so unless I wanna spring for a set( about 1000$ with all the parts install tuning ect.) and wiring and a larger alternator this looks like a nice option.
I wish they made a slightly higher pressure cap for the system as well.

Look at my last post it is running pretty optimal at this point. Might need a slight adjustment in my tune if anything.
 
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Okay, there's a lot less anxiety over it then. I run a 180F inlet stat on my engine. I still have the 195F outlet.

From an oil stand point, I can't see any issues here. You're operating at a temp not unlike just about everyone else with outlet stats.
 
wow, many here have no idea what a modern aftermarket tuner can do.

number one, it is extremely unlikely that a factory SS 6 liter will ever overheat due to lack of cooling capacity. That truck has a HUGE radiator and cooling fans like hurricanes.

My experience across several similar platforms has been that a 160 may be a bit low, but if you set the fans up correctly you can literally adjust the vehicle to run wherever you want above 160.

My current tuned vehicle logs significant increases in KR above 180, really likes being under that threshold. I run a 176 thermostat and have my fans programmed to try and keep the temp where I want it. Oil temps routinely reach 200 plus. You do not need to hit 212 to flash off contaminants.

Ford published research LONG ago in HP Books that showed cylinder wall wear went DOWN as coolant temps went up. The point mentioned as a minimum was 160 degrees, with hotter being better.

But oils have improved a bit since the sixties, so it may all be moot.
 
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wow, many here have no idea what a modern aftermarket tuner can do.


Most of us aren't as Fast and as Furious as we once were.
grin2.gif
 
So is your aftermarket tune as sensitive to knock events as the stock PCM? Is this a (code) modified stock PCM or something like a megasquirt standalone?

A knock at idle without much load isn't much to worry about IMO. 80's cars used to knock and ping all the time, TBI cavaliers come to mind.

Maybe you could come up with some clever plumbing in the line to your heater core. Stick some Ts in and add a 2nd heater core wherever you can stuff it, under the bed, wherever. Stick an electric fan on that and come up with an auto/manual switch for it. With relays you could set it so "if the brake lights are on and thermoswitch > 160'F" the fan comes on. This will cool it below thermostat temp as it's on the hot side of the loop. You could then run a warmer t-stat as your complaint is only about a very specific traffic idling situation.
 
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