cold start valvetrain noise, 10 minutes +?

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10 mins of clacking === valve lash.

No need to argue here...

and SteveSRT8 is correct that piston slaps should go away within the first min or so or as soon as the aluminium pistons warm up/aluminium piston skirts expand to lower the skirt to bore clearance.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
It is extremely unlikely for piston slap to last that long.

Typical aluminum piston warms in literally seconds.


I agree, and on this engine piston slap really isn't that common.

Besides adjusting the valves, which at this point you should at least inspect anyway, I think the suggestion to inspect the timing chain tensioner is a good one as well, along with the guides. It could be timing chain slap until the tensioner is locked in place. I don't know what the protocol is to test it, or if it can be done if place--or if you just need to replace it?
 
While I'm not saying its not a valve adjustment issue, the op did say it got louder with LOAD not rpm. Louder with load would point more towards piston slap. I agree that in most cases it should go away in a few minutes, but not all cases are the same.

Then again, maybe the op has mistaken load for rpm?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Possibly another victim of inadequate oil and E10 fuels. If an engine is this noisy full warm, and fuel mileage has dropped 15% and excess fuel is shown in a proper UOA - I would declare it 'toast'. Mine is heading down the drain this winter - Im trying to run "normal" (cat saving/engine eating) oils but it aint working. Back to the Olympic SH/SJ "HDEO" 5w30 synthetic with zinc/phos to the limit! Its amazing what 1600ppm zinc can do.

If you post the same nonsense 4,324 times does it become truth?
 
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Possibly another victim of inadequate oil and E10 fuels. If an engine is this noisy full warm, and fuel mileage has dropped 15% and excess fuel is shown in a proper UOA - I would declare it 'toast'. Mine is heading down the drain this winter - Im trying to run "normal" (cat saving/engine eating) oils but it aint working. Back to the Olympic SH/SJ "HDEO" 5w30 synthetic with zinc/phos to the limit! Its amazing what 1600ppm zinc can do.

If you post the same nonsense 4,324 times does it become truth?


No, but unfortunately it may persuade those new to the board to believe him
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Possibly another victim of inadequate oil and E10 fuels. If an engine is this noisy full warm, and fuel mileage has dropped 15% and excess fuel is shown in a proper UOA - I would declare it 'toast'. Mine is heading down the drain this winter - Im trying to run "normal" (cat saving/engine eating) oils but it aint working. Back to the Olympic SH/SJ "HDEO" 5w30 synthetic with zinc/phos to the limit! Its amazing what 1600ppm zinc can do.

If you post the same nonsense 4,324 times does it become truth?


No, but unfortunately it may persuade those new to the board to believe him
frown.gif



Have to agree with him on the Ethanol in the fact that the way it is produced in the US, it does no one any favors, but for the farmers and the AG Lobby.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
It is extremely unlikely for piston slap to last that long.

Typical aluminum piston warms in literally seconds.


In the case of my Camaro LS1, it takes about 5 minutes from a cold start and driving around at low throttle openings and
It takes longer than a few seconds for an aluminum piston to reach thermal stabilization when an engine is cold-started. Yes, the top of the piston is exposed to combustion, but it's the skirt that produces piston slap, and that is relatively isolated from combustion. About 70% of the heat that is driven into the piston crown from combustion is conducted into the cylinder wall through the top ring. The piston skirt temperature (and therefore piston-cylinder clearance) does not stabilize until the coolant temperature does.
 
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