clunky cutlass

[GreeCguy]

Good evening fellow oilers
I have a 1995 Cutlass Ciera that is making a clunky noise when I turn left. Car is front wheel drive, 143,000 miles, original suspension, 3.1 V-6 automatic transmission.

It does not do it all the time but is hit and miss with it's clunkieness. I tried making it do it today in our Churches parking lot by turning in circles very sharply. Never made the noise. But on the way home sure enough, turned on road to come home and clunky it became. noises comes from the front passenger side of the car.

It's not a consistent clunk, (like something hitting something else, in other words, it doesn't make a "clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk" noise). But sounds more like something is lose.

I haven't had it on the jack yet, but just wondering what could it be and what should I be looking for?

 

[Sawdusted]

I would look at the ball joint, tie rods, tie rod ends, sway bar links and cv joints. Also check to make sure that you don't have any broken coil springs or worn out sway bar bushings or control arm bushings.

that's where I would start.

 

[artificialist]

1. Sway bar bushings and links. This is the #1 cause that I find. Check the sway bar for any rotting rubber parts or missing rubber parts. Some links look like tie-rod ends and those are even less durable.
2. Inner and outer tie rod ends: check for play by jacking up the wheel and pushing and pulling on the tire. Don't buy a cheap part or you will do this again. If you find PSF inside the PS rack boot, you need a rebuilt PS rack.
3. Upper strut mount: with that same wheel off the ground, put your hands under the wheel and lift it up. If you hear a noise from the upper strut mount, buy Quick struts or a high quality equivalent.
4. Lower ball joints: put a pry bar between the control arm and spindle. If you can move the ball joint vertically or horizontally, replace it. Don't buy a cheap ball joint, or you will do this again next year.
5. Weak engine mount: Have a friend rev up the engine while in drive and in reverse. The engine shouldn't move more than about 1/2 and inch when you do this. If it does, find a weak engine mount. I recommend dealer mounts only. All part store replacements I have ever seen were made cheaply.

 

[Rock_Hudstone]

Lower ball joint is a good place to start.

Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while watching for movement at the joint and lower control arm.

Worn stabilizer bar end links/bushing tend to make a thump/knock when hitting pot holes or rough pavement, not only left turns, same goes for struts.

 

[salv]

Check brakes. If rotors have rust lips, they can push out on the pads and cause noises. If the clips on the pads have broken, bent, or are missing, then the pads can shift and make noise when turning.

 

[JimPghPA]

How low is the car sitting. If the springs are worn due to age, the suspension may be bottoming out (hitting a travel limit).

 

[mechtech2]

Sway bar end links.

 

[GreeCguy]

Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
How low is the car sitting. If the springs are worn due to age, the suspension may be bottoming out (hitting a travel limit).


Car does ride "soft" and somewhat "bouncy." I've always liked it that way as she's "built for comfort not for speedo."

 

[Nyquist]

Stabilizer links or the rear spring bushings. Saw them all the time at my father's shop.