I had a new set of tires put on my Corolla the other day and when I left I noticed a clunking sound coming from my suspension or possibly a steering component. The sound only occures when I'm going over bumps. It doesn't seem to affect the way the car drives at all, but it's annoying as [censored]. I don't know if putting the new tires on had anything to do with this problem, or if it just happened to be a coincidence that that's when the problem statred. I could put the car up on jack stands to take a look, but what components should I be checking?
"Clunking" sound coming from Corolla suspension
- Thread starter grampi
- Start date
- Status
ball joints, tie rod ends, strut mounts, sway bar bushings and end links.
Anything rubber look for deep cracks (small ones to be expected).
Could be the new tires have a stiffer sidewall than the old ones, transmitting more shock to the rest of the car.
You can grab the wheel/tire at 9&3, then12&6 oclock and shake, but this only shows the obvious. For a real good ball joint inspection you need to pry between the knuckle and lower control arm with a decent pointy prybar.
Also with the tires back on pavement move the steering wheel back and forth a few inches; the rim edge should have zero play while the tire will flex and bind a little bit before it scrubs the pavement. Play from a ball joint or tie rod end will only feel like about half an inch of freeplay in the wheel, hard to feel until it's fixed.
Anything rubber look for deep cracks (small ones to be expected).
Could be the new tires have a stiffer sidewall than the old ones, transmitting more shock to the rest of the car.
You can grab the wheel/tire at 9&3, then12&6 oclock and shake, but this only shows the obvious. For a real good ball joint inspection you need to pry between the knuckle and lower control arm with a decent pointy prybar.
Also with the tires back on pavement move the steering wheel back and forth a few inches; the rim edge should have zero play while the tire will flex and bind a little bit before it scrubs the pavement. Play from a ball joint or tie rod end will only feel like about half an inch of freeplay in the wheel, hard to feel until it's fixed.
Originally Posted By: paul246
Immediately go out to the car and ensure all the wheel lugs are torqued properly... do this before moving your car again.
Good call Paul.
Immediately go out to the car and ensure all the wheel lugs are torqued properly... do this before moving your car again.
Good call Paul.
I think what I'm going to do is take the car back to the place that installed the tires and tell them the sound started right after they changed the tires. That should get me a free inspection and I'm sure they're much more qualified and know more about what to look for than I do. Though I do a lot of my own maintenance on my vehicles, I have zero experience working with suspension/steering parts and I really don't feel comfortable doing so. I really don't know what to look for.
I took my car back to the place that installed the tires yesterday and explained my situation. After putting the car up on the lift, they said the clunking sound is coming from my left ball joint. He' said it could be worn or it could just need to be tightened. He said they couldn't touch it as they don't do suspension/steering work. I will put the car up on jackstands next weekend while I'm home and see if I can tighten it. If that doesn't cure the problem, I guess I'll have to have my ball joints replaced.
Tightening ball joints don't usually do much. Just replace them (both side, to keep a symmetrical ride).
Should be pretty easy on a corolla. No rivets to drill out. I know my '94 Prizm (a Corolla with the GM badge) doesn't need the ball joint pressed out of the control arm, they are bolted on. I suspect newer ones are the same. Even my 2006 Scion tC had ball joints that were bolted on, so I suspect Toyota is still doing it this way.
Some things might be rusted in place. But I think it's a pretty easy job. Probably far easier than my old Plymouth Horizon years ago. That was a full afternoons work to press out two ball joints.
Some things might be rusted in place. But I think it's a pretty easy job. Probably far easier than my old Plymouth Horizon years ago. That was a full afternoons work to press out two ball joints.
If you have the $, I'd change out both sides at this time.
They are a simple bolt on part - pretty easy.
They are a simple bolt on part - pretty easy.
However, since new ball joints will be a little bit different than old ones, and alignment of the wheels will be needed.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
However, since new ball joints will be a little bit different than old ones, and alignment of the wheels will be needed.
You couldn't just mark the position of the old ones before they're removed and then position the new ones the same?
However, since new ball joints will be a little bit different than old ones, and alignment of the wheels will be needed.
You couldn't just mark the position of the old ones before they're removed and then position the new ones the same?
Last edited:
If you don't really know what you are doing you should take the car to a place that does, otherwise you'll have more grief down the road, literally.
Also, clunking sounds would more likely come from a worn tie rod end or a simple worn bushing, not a ball joint.
You will need an alignment, might as well take it to a pro and get it all done correctly the first time.
Also, clunking sounds would more likely come from a worn tie rod end or a simple worn bushing, not a ball joint.
You will need an alignment, might as well take it to a pro and get it all done correctly the first time.
If you replace the ball joints have an alignment done, and replace both sides even if the other side is good. Replacing front end parts such as tie rods, and trying to count threads or installing in the "exact" location of the old part is almost impossible. It will get you in the ball park but never exact. Anytime I did front end work I had an alignment done, its not worth the risk of ruining a set of tires guessing at the Alignment.
JMO,
Frank D
JMO,
Frank D
Old suspension parts tend to get bent out of shape, causing the new parts that aren't bent to leave the car misaligned.
That is why even if you take a count of the #of threads on an inner tie rod end, the alignment is still off.
That is why even if you take a count of the #of threads on an inner tie rod end, the alignment is still off.
I know some have said if one ball joint is bad, replace them both. For example, if my lower left ball joint is bad, are you saying I should also replace the upper left one, or should I replace the lower right? I shouldn't replace all 4 if one is bad?
Yesterday I took the car to a different repair place (a more reputable one) to get a second opinion. He said my ball joints were fine and said the ends of my front stablizer bar needed to be replaced and that is wha't s causing the clunking sound. The good news is replacing these parts don't require a front end alignment.
- Status
Similar threads
