JHZR2
Staff member
How do I know they’re the issue?
Is there real benefit to going up in specification? As in the 800 series vs 500 series?
Clicks in the bottom bracket?
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
Is there real benefit to going up in specification? As in the 800 series vs 500 series?
Looks like there's paint on the face that the bottom bracket tightens up against. I'd see if a local bike shop could face them and make sure they're square and free of paint. You want to make sure the have a tool like this: https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20027798/Cyclo-Bottom-Bracket-Facing-Tool-Guide/product_info.html
I think there is a tiny bit of play in the bb threads and the frame threads since you can make it click without pedalling. Try wrapping the bb threads with teflon tape which will fill the gap temporarily at least and if it goes silent, you would know what the problem is. (how to fix that permanently is another issue to look into, the farmer in me says just wack the empty bb tube with a wooden mallet to tighten up the bore a little, but I'd hope there's a more professional method!)
In your riding video it also sounds abit like bad bearings too, so check your pedals, they can make some odd noises.
In your riding video it also sounds abit like bad bearings too, so check your pedals, they can make some odd noises.
It all depends on what’s acceptable to you. You can grease it up and put it back together and see if you can live with it. On the other hand you could face and chase the BB and replace the cups with Wheels of Boulder cups with Enduro bearings. That would fix it for good.
JHZR2
Staff member
Well I got some park tool polyurethane grease and cleaned it up after work. It was more or less all ready to go from what I did on it last night.
I think the left side was cross threaded from the factory/LBS. The threads on the bearing holder were a bit messed up. The frame threads seem fine. I started to screw it in but after a bit it was a lot of resistance. I backed it out and note the grey coloration that showed up. I think that’s from a thread grinding. I don’t think it’s old remnant grease, because the male threads were dry before I lubed them, and while the OE grease was grey, I don’t think there was a chance for contamination there.
I didn’t find a way to thread it in without substantial resistance, so I used the wrench and just got it far and tight enough. It’s not coming out. The other side went in easily. I just threaded it in by hand and snugged it with my wrench.
Then I put the rest of it together, and torqued the crank arm bolts to spec. It works smooth and silent!
I appreciate all the guidance that was provided. It took a while for me to address it, I should have done it sooner.
Now I have to think about if I should get a replacement bottom bracket bearing set. They both roll smooth, but that thread concerns me.
I used the park tool wrench. It really harms the bearing holder…
I think it’s the finish in the wrench. I wonder if it can be filed?
But it’s smooth and silent. No bearing noises or anything else. Thanks again!
I think the left side was cross threaded from the factory/LBS. The threads on the bearing holder were a bit messed up. The frame threads seem fine. I started to screw it in but after a bit it was a lot of resistance. I backed it out and note the grey coloration that showed up. I think that’s from a thread grinding. I don’t think it’s old remnant grease, because the male threads were dry before I lubed them, and while the OE grease was grey, I don’t think there was a chance for contamination there.
I didn’t find a way to thread it in without substantial resistance, so I used the wrench and just got it far and tight enough. It’s not coming out. The other side went in easily. I just threaded it in by hand and snugged it with my wrench.
Then I put the rest of it together, and torqued the crank arm bolts to spec. It works smooth and silent!
I appreciate all the guidance that was provided. It took a while for me to address it, I should have done it sooner.
Now I have to think about if I should get a replacement bottom bracket bearing set. They both roll smooth, but that thread concerns me.
I used the park tool wrench. It really harms the bearing holder…
I think it’s the finish in the wrench. I wonder if it can be filed?
But it’s smooth and silent. No bearing noises or anything else. Thanks again!
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JHZR2
Staff member
They do make aluminum sockets that won't mare up your bottom bracket like the laser cut plate version you have. Plenty of options on Amazon.
JHZR2
Staff member
I’m kind of surprised that the park took wrench would be finished so rough. Maybe it’s a counterfeit?
JHZR2
Staff member
I took my kids to and from swim practice tonight on our bikes. The bike was smooth and quiet, like new. So I can validate that it was something related to the greasing of the threads of the bottom bracket. They were suitably tight. And it wasn’t the crank arms.
Since I had so much trouble threading it in, does anyone thing I should proactively replace it? Not that it doesn’t spin smooth, it spins fine. But should I put a BB MT800 in there perhaps as an upgrade? Not sure that I’ll notice a spinning difference, nor the few ounces… but I’m not a fan of how the original one felt threading in…
Since I had so much trouble threading it in, does anyone thing I should proactively replace it? Not that it doesn’t spin smooth, it spins fine. But should I put a BB MT800 in there perhaps as an upgrade? Not sure that I’ll notice a spinning difference, nor the few ounces… but I’m not a fan of how the original one felt threading in…
If it is smooth and quiet, let it be!
No, don't take it out. The problem is likely more related to the frames bottom bracket threads than to those on the BB itself. Consider changing it after the clicking comes back, in a year or so. And have the threads in the frame chased.
Yep, just chase the threads. Noises are sooooo common on Al frames. I don't miss my old CrackNFails -- er, I mean Cannondales for this reason. You may have to lube it once a year or more. We used to drop some linseed oil down the seat tube, but I think it was as much superstition as anything.
If problems continue, send it to Hambini.
If problems continue, send it to Hambini.
Hambini!!!
It ain't broke, don't fix it. It will never be perfect and a higher quality BB is a waste of time & money on that kind of bike (not an insult, just a fact). Smooth and silent is good enough!
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
And at 250lbs of muscle towing a tagalong hope you’re spinning not grinding. 
Well done on the fix.
Well done on the fix.
Shimano Hollowtech external BBs, as well as SRAM GXP/Dub and Campy Ultra-Torque external ones shouldn’t creak. Especially on a steel, aluminum or titanium frame bike with a “traditional” threaded BB shell -english(road/CX/gravel), Italian(mountain) or T47 that was released by Chris King but “open-sourced” - Trek and Ibis are using it now. It’s the press-fit BB30/PF30/BB86/BB386/BBRight/OSBB in carbon frames that squeaked. SRAM tried to fix Cannondale’s BB30 with PF30, Trek and Shimano worked on BB86, FSA tried to have it both ways with BB386 which combined BB30’s 30mm axle length with BB86’s wider shell, and Cervelo took BB386 but made it asymmetric with more detail on the drive side and called it BBRight. The tolerances on a carbon frame vary.
True, the press-fit BBs seem to be more prone to this problem. Yet as this thread shows, even a threaded BB can squeak or click. And any kind of frame, threaded or press-fit, can have problems with alignment and tolerances. It's a general quality issue.
Conversely, neither approach, press-fit or threaded, is perfect. Both rely on proper alignment & tolerances, and both work without squeaking or clicking when done properly.
Even with an "everything is right" bike, after mileage, age, weathering, sweat, etc, bikes are prone to creaking. Headset, stem, seat post saddle clamps, are the same. Bicycles are not maintenance free.
Yep, it's not always the BB. That's why in my advice back in post #7 I mentioned several common ways old bikes start to creak. They are all fixable, but you gotta make sure you are barking up the right tree.
