Clearly not my year for technology................

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Having just asked and received sage advice regarding my iPad, I need to revisit a recurring problem with my ASUS N53s i7 running Windows 7 Home Premium.

I had posted on October 9th about booting up the laptop only to find no icons (except for the recycle bin) on the desktop nor the task bar present. I was advised to boot into safe mode and run check disk, which I did, and that initially solved the problem with my Office programs being nowhere to be found (I re-loaded them).

This event occurred five days later and was "solved" the same way as noted above.

I then began to receive a "black screen" on startup telling me I had a "file error" on one of my partitioned drives. I believe this 750GB hard drive was partitioned from the factory for whatever reason.

It recommended booting in safe mode and running check disk to solve the problem, which I did. However, every few days for the next few weeks, I continued to receive the "black screen/file error" and continued to "solve" it via check disk.

On December 15th and 22nd, I received a blue screen informing me I had a "driver power state failure" and that the PC was initializing both my data and my disk for a "crash dump."

Both times I had to force a shutdown as the PC locked up. Upon re-start, no issues.

Having grown weary of the black and blue screens over the past three months, someone suggested I run my recovery disks, which I did.

For some reason my hard drive is no longer partitioned. That is fine by me. I'm used to working with a simple "C" drive. I re-installed my programs and everything was fine, until today.

Now I received the blue screen telling me I had suffered "Bad Pool Header."

I did re-install Norton and MBAM today before the blue screen appeared.

Previously, from October 9th through December 15th and 22nd, no programs were installed or un-installed to trigger those blue screens.

Do I have a "system" problem or is my four+ year old hard drive about to crash?

Or better still, is it "operator error.......?
eek.gif
 
Can you upgrade to windows 8? If your computer can support the software I would. Windows 8 just went thru a major overhaul to make it user friendly (windows 8 was totally different when it came out). I have windows 7 at work and windows 8 at home. 8 seems to have less bugs in it.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
You haven't mentioned whether you have updated and run your Anti-Virus program and a malware program to rule out infections. Ed


I ran MBAM and NIS almost everyday beginning on October 9th and neither found viruses and/or malware.

Initially, I was leaning toward a system failure (kinda like Congress) but now with three blue screens in the past two weeks, I am starting to agree the hard drive is headed south.

I thought the recovery disks would solve any system issues but the latest blue screen post-recovery seems to eliminate the system as being the focus.

My presumption is that any new hard drive installed will have to use the latest O/S, i.e., Windows 10? I have not seen Win 7 available anywhere legitimate.

Thanks for the assistance.
 
As Overkill and beanoil stated, it sounds like your disk drive is failing. More and more sectors are becoming unreadable. When you rundcheckdisk it move files from "bad" areas of the disk to good areas. However, you are running on borrowed time. Backup anything important and replace the hard drive.
 
Before you condemn the Drive, be sure you don't have failing RAM ... the symptoms are identical to HD Failure. Try memtest (application, freeware) or equivalent to rule out memory corruption.

Since you only have the one active, visible Partition you should be able to perform a drive duplication. Create a Live CD in a Linux OS, boot from that Linux CD, and do a bit-for-bit duplicate of your old drive to the new drive (new drive in external USB enclosure). The drive tools should be on the Live CD.

After you dupe, swap the new drive in to your machine and do a test reboot. DO NOT partition or write to your old drive; you want to keep it as-is until you are positive your new drive works as desired in the computer.

You are eligible for the free upgrade to Win10 with your Win7 Registration Code or installation, but I would not do so before getting a stable working Win7 + Apps System first.

Only caveat is the free upgrade from Win7 to Win10 expires 1 year after the Win10 launch, so decide before summer '16.

Google Keywords:
Linux Live CD
Bootable Drive Copy Windows7
Duplicate Drive Tools Linux
Bit for Bit Drive Duplicate
Windows7 to Windows10
 
If you want to clone your original drive (which I would be hesitant to do based on the fact you recently reimaged and that you'll be duplicating any corruption/issues with your current install) the easiest way is to just download the Ultimate Boot CD, which has a number of drive cloning programs on it. It won't care if you have multiple partitions or not BTW, any decent piece of cloning software won't either.

The Ultimate Boot CD also has Memtest86 and Memtest86+ on it so you can test your RAM, which has Johnny2Bad has mentioned, is worth doing before you completely write-off your hard drive. I will say that the symptoms between a failing HD and failing RAM are not identical, but since we are troubleshooting this over the Internet, I'd advise checking the one to eliminate it from the checklist.
 
I vote with your HD's wheels are coming off and it's heading for the ditch. With that said, a memory test would also be a wise move as well.

I've experienced similar issues on a MacBook I was given. Would barely start up, then suddenly hang. New HD fixed all of that.
 
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Is there any reason to switch to a solid state hard drive? My limited understanding is they startup much faster and are more reliable, but I hear when they fail, they fail, i.e., no "blue screen" warnings.

I do not need the 750 GB storage nor the partioning of the original HD.
 
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Is there any reason to switch to a solid state hard drive? My limited understanding is they startup much faster and are more reliable, but I hear when they fail, they fail, i.e., no "blue screen" warnings.

I do not need the 750 GB storage nor the partioning of the original HD.


They are super fast and aren't susceptible to shock (drop) damage. As long as you backup your stuff (Google Drive or some cloud based backup or an external drive) you'll really love the performance increase.
 
I tested the RAM as suggested using Memtest86+.

There were no errors or issues found.

I guess I'll see if I can swap out the HD for a SSHD with either 128 or 256GB of storage.
 
Never mind. I looked it up.

Normally when I've had a fan issue, the (then) desktop crashed in a hurry.

SMART sounds like an optimizer, of sorts.

Between RegServ, NIS, MBAM, and Windows system utilities, why would I need to use SMART at this point?

Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: dkryan
What is "speedfan" and SMART?


SMART is the hard drive's way of monitor its own health. Speedfan is a program. The SMART data may or may not be useful as hard drives are surprisingly awful at predicting/notifying you of their impending failure.

Personally, if you DO want to view the SMART data, I recommend Passmark's DiskCheckup:

http://www.passmark.com/products/diskcheckup.htm
 
Your HDD is almost dead.
The only thing of use to you with respect to SMART is Current Pending Sector, which I'd bet is not zero. All that will do is confirm your HDD is almost dead. Nothing you can do to easily migrate onto another HDD as all the migration utilities expect a properly functioning HDD before they'll work (isn't that great?).

So, either buy new HDD and do a fresh install, or look at buying a refurbished laptop a few years old at a good price, and putting a SSD into it.
 
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