OK--I'm a complete moron when it comes to car finishes. Most of my cars, I just keep clean because I buy them new and keep them forever. However, I have a 1998 Ford Contour V6 that I bought for my daughter. It has been a good for the 1.5 years we've owned it, but that V6 does run hot and there is some clear coat 'checking' on the hood. Is there something I can use to prolong the clearcoat to stop it from flaking off or turning white? As of this point, it is not flaking off, just has the cracking lines in it when you look close. I just want to stop it from getting worse. Any help would be appreciated--thanks
Clearcoat cracking on daughter's car--
- Thread starter JDD
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The short answer is no. The only way to take care of it properly is to strip it and start from bare metal up.
It may take a while before it begins to flake, wait till it gets worse before making any move.
It may take a while before it begins to flake, wait till it gets worse before making any move.
Originally Posted By: JDD
there is some clear coat 'checking' on the hood... it is not flaking off, just has the cracking lines in it when you look close.
Once that starts, the clear-coat is done for; there is no saving it.
Is this the original paint? Factory paint (not sure about Ford) generally does not deteriorate like that unless given heavy exposure to UV light over a very long time. Aftermarket repaints are often of inferior quality, with the clear coat failing within a few years.
there is some clear coat 'checking' on the hood... it is not flaking off, just has the cracking lines in it when you look close.
Once that starts, the clear-coat is done for; there is no saving it.
Is this the original paint? Factory paint (not sure about Ford) generally does not deteriorate like that unless given heavy exposure to UV light over a very long time. Aftermarket repaints are often of inferior quality, with the clear coat failing within a few years.
I gave up trying to save the clear the last few years - so I just got my SUV repainted recently.
JHZR2
Staff member
I had a car that was showing some "crazing", it wasnt cracking or broken. The auto body shop was able to strip the clear and re-spray just it.
No idea if that is the true best way to go or whatever, but it seemed to last. You couldnt tell it was done.
No idea if that is the true best way to go or whatever, but it seemed to last. You couldnt tell it was done.
That's a common problem with that generation of ford contour/mystique. I believe there was an issue with the primer they used and over time those small hairline cracks will appear. It happened to my mother's green mystique also. The only way to solve it would be to bring it down to bare metal and start fresh.
Since my recent re-paint, I been more into looking at other vehicles with clear coat/paint issues - amazing how many I'm seeing, or noticing now.
I had seen and owned several GM cars of the late 80's to mid 90's with the same issue. My 1993 Riviera was one of the worse.
Originally Posted By: vaboom123
That's a common problem with that generation of ford contour/mystique. I believe there was an issue with the primer they used and over time those small hairline cracks will appear. It happened to my mother's green mystique also. The only way to solve it would be to bring it down to bare metal and start fresh.
Yes, it's the original paint. Car was bought from the original owners, who were older and not the type to go out there and wax their car. It was garaged and is now. The basecoat looks to be fine, just the clearcoat. I find it interesting that it is only the hood that has the problem. I chalk it up to the heat these cars generate with the V6 that are really wedged in there and there is no room for air to circulate, so it stays hot for a long time. The hood is really hot when my daughter gets home, more than my other cars. Well, I guess I will let it go until it turns white and starts flaking off before I do anything about it. Thanks for the replies. I can always count on good feedback here.
That's a common problem with that generation of ford contour/mystique. I believe there was an issue with the primer they used and over time those small hairline cracks will appear. It happened to my mother's green mystique also. The only way to solve it would be to bring it down to bare metal and start fresh.
Yes, it's the original paint. Car was bought from the original owners, who were older and not the type to go out there and wax their car. It was garaged and is now. The basecoat looks to be fine, just the clearcoat. I find it interesting that it is only the hood that has the problem. I chalk it up to the heat these cars generate with the V6 that are really wedged in there and there is no room for air to circulate, so it stays hot for a long time. The hood is really hot when my daughter gets home, more than my other cars. Well, I guess I will let it go until it turns white and starts flaking off before I do anything about it. Thanks for the replies. I can always count on good feedback here.
I read and hear of many complaints with clear coating peeling. It's true there were some problems with adhesion when working within a manufacturing process/time schedule. Getting paint products cured in a timely fashion to not impede production had some growing pains when BC/CC paint come into the picture. From time to time, it still creeps in. But to see this more accurately, let's look at the alternative. When cars can with SS paint, even though it was chemically cured, it didn't last as long as a BC/CC job will. Remember having to wax your paint or it looked lousy?? See everyone forgets that. They forget what paint looked like in a few years unless you actually took care of it. If you take care of the BC/CC job, it will really last. So true there were some production difficulties, but overall, no comparison.
The clearcoat is dunzo. Your best bet is to replace the heat shield in the engine bay and if it is worth it have the hood re-cleared. There is nothing OTC that will correct this.
There has always been a weak spot in bc/cc and that is the base coat. The base is sandwiched between the electrocoat and the catalyzed clear coat. I'm sure none of the U.S. manufacturers were using the absolute best in paint technology. If they were they would buy their stuff from Silkins or Glasurit.
As for it always being better than single stage I would beg to differ. I spray all my older cars with PPG Concept Urethane SS which is a great paint. The stuff can last as long or longer than clear coat since it never peels and can be buffed out. My Mustang paint job has hit 22 years now with no loss of gloss.
As for it always being better than single stage I would beg to differ. I spray all my older cars with PPG Concept Urethane SS which is a great paint. The stuff can last as long or longer than clear coat since it never peels and can be buffed out. My Mustang paint job has hit 22 years now with no loss of gloss.
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