Cleaning paint on finished wood (sloppy work)

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JHZR2

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My home was built in the early 30s and has mostly original finished chestnut trim.

We have a small powder room that we gutted, but we are keeping the trim, which the PO hastily painted and got paint on the wood trim (not sure if this wood is the same, or if the finish is the same - I think most of the house was stained and shellacked).

I'm practically high on xylene right now from trying goof off (with good ventilation) to get a small area off. It looks like this on more or less every inch of every piece of trim:

ac4c3409.jpg


So what do I do?

I'm trying goof off with a plastic scraper. I seem to rub off more wood finish then paint when I rub the product on, and the scraper doesn't help much unless I've used enough product to really stink up the room and wet everything (which ruins the nearby finish).

Suggestions would be appreciated. The room isn't big, but that kind of sloppy work makes me crazy. I'm fearful that on trim like this, we will have to sand or strip it and completely refinish. Sure hope not.

Thanks!
 
Sand it off.
Use a 180 grit paper until the paint is gone, then refinish the wood with shellack.
 
Strip it, sand it, and then you have your choice of finishes, from shellac to stain/varnish.

I would get a piece of the trim that you won't be reusing, strip it and use it to test different finish methods to find out which you prefer on your particular species of wood.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
no stain? Will the stain stay in the grain of the wood?



From your pics, I would not think the wood is stained.

Regardless, you only need to sand enough to remove the paint.

However, from your other post, it looks like the finish on the wood may be made up of two, in compatible finishes, or finishes applied with insufficient preparation. In which case you may have more of a problem.

Chemical stripping may be the only answer.

Best to leave the wood trim in place if at all possible. Removal will always cause some amount of damage.
 
You can sand/scrape, or use chemicals.
But it will not be right, or match the untouched wood.

It may be best [since it is a small room] to refinish the trim.
Bite the bullet and it will not be a big ordeal.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Strip it, sand it, and then you have your choice of finishes, from shellac to stain/varnish.

I would get a piece of the trim that you won't be reusing, strip it and use it to test different finish methods to find out which you prefer on your particular species of wood.


There is no trim that I wont be using, and the wood has a peculiar grain when cut perpendicular, not like any that ive seen. So I dont know what it is (have been told Chestnut, but I wouldnt know chestnut wood from anything).

I could use a piece as a tester and then re-strip, of course I imagine that runs the risk of discoloring/damaging that piece more...

My main criteria is to match the original, un-refinished wood in the house. Whatever that is, however it was done, Id like it to match. How to best do that, Im all ears...

But extra wood I dont have.

There are the backsides of the wood pieces though!
 
I've had to color match and match the finish of wood before. It's an arduous process.

I have shellac, sanding sealer, polyurethane, spar urethane, waterlox, teak oil, boiled linseed oil, linseed oil, turpentine, paint thinner, tung oil, and a bunch of other cans of stuff I've picked up over the years. Sometimes stuff of differing brands. This is not even mentioning the "stain collection."

You'll have to do alot of trial and error if you sand and refinish, but it is possible to match. It takes patience. Find out how old the wood is and start from there - what was easy/cheap for builders in that time frame. That might give you an idea on what to try.
 
The wood is chestnut. Doitmyself helped me to determine that, as I know the grain pattern when the wood is cut perpendicularly.

So the question is what would have been used most in 1930-35?

It appears that at least some of the wood has been recoated, but I want the original type product, so that's what Ill use. If I need to match better in some spots because it stands out, Ill deal with that when I get there...

Thanks!
 
I'm by no means a finish expert, but my guess is lacquer or varnish, in that order. Lacquer is quick drying and my guess is I'd use something like that if I were mass producing trim in a shop. It also is easier to spray, versus a varnish which is brushed.

If you notice yellowing and age cracking, it probably is one of these finishes. Wish I could help more.
 
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