“Clean your MAF!” - everyone

[SOUNDMAN5000]

Years ago, I owned a 02 low mile Crown Vic that I had been using a drop in K&N air filter. Some forums at that time suggested the close location of the air box to the MAF didn't play well with the oil from the K&N. So I purchased the proper MAF cleaner and cleaned it proper and right away I notice better throttle response, smoother engine, better everything but was VERY short lived as with-in a few hundred miles the "bad" returned so, I cleaned again and once again 100-200 miles and the bad returned...

I tossed the K&N and purchased a Motorcraft stock filter, cleaned the MSF once more and never had to clean it again, I sold the car a year after this...


I can't say what cars need or don't need a good MAF cleaning but I know in a 2002 Crown Vic IF a K&N air filter is used It WILL NEED A CLEANING...

 

[Huskyguy68]

100%


Absolutely


in my experience the 2003-2008 Corolla or Matrix and 2000-2005 Celica GTs absolutely benefit from cleaning a dirty MAF sensor, yes codes went away and the car absolutely drove better.

Note: This experience is with 15+ vehicles, not 1 and even with perfect maintenance after 30-40k miles, I would see the MAF get dirty but no codes.

Learning from the experience listed above, I started to clean my MAF sensors in my 2GR-FE applications (have owned 7), there were no codes and it made no difference and the MAF sensors were very clean to begin with, which led me to believe that the air intake pathway is designed better and keeps these MAFs very clean but regardless of this, every 30K miles when I clean the Throttle body, I clean the MAF and PCV val

 

[Huskyguy68]

My brother has a 2004 Matrix with the 1.8L.
I removed the VVT solenoid and gave it a clean with brake cleaner.
I noticed the engine rpm idled lower after, smoother, quieter, and seemed more responsive .
I did the same on my other brother's 2014 Corolla.
Both cars have super easy access to the vvt solenoids .
One ten mm bolt, easy wire to disconnect.Wiggle the vvt solenoid out of it's hole. Clean it with brake cleaner or TB cleaner, let it air dry, reinstall.
ON my 06 Nissan 2.5L, its a pain in the ass to remove, but i have removed it 4 times in 3 years , just to clean.

 

[Huskyguy68]

Just to add, make sure you use the dedicated Maf sensor spray cleaner.
I think you can also use Electronic Spray cleaner too. I have used both, no issues popped up afterwards.0

 

[Skippy722]

This thread made me realized that of all the vehicles I've owned (8), not a single one had a MAF sensor, they've all used MAP.

 

[AKhan87]

I removed the VVT solenoid and gave it a clean with brake cleaner.

The 1zzfe engine is my specialty as I am creeping up to almost 130 engine rebuilds, I used to clean the VVTi Solenoid the way you mentioned (even used Gas and compressed air).

nothing cleans it as good as the Toyota method for testing it, which makes you test resistance (I have found all of them to be in specifications for this) and the other part of it is to see if you can actuate the solenoid by using a 12v battery.

There is a Diagram to connect the positive and negative lead to the correct pin on the solenoid and then hold the negative lead (or vise versa) on the negative terminal on the 12v battery and gently tap the positive lead on the positive terminal of the 12v battery. This tests to see if you solenoid will open and close in succession.

if you were to submerge part of the solenoid that actually sits internally in the engine in a gas container (I use a clear glass container for this) and actuate the solenoid, you can see quiet a bit of dirt/build come out of the solenoid, and then afterwards I would do the exact same thing in clean motor oil to properly lubricate it - this should clean & lubricate your solenoid and restore it back to OEM specifications.

 

[Paco Pena]

MAF sensors don't fail very often but they will get dirty enough to cause issue. A can of MAF Sensor cleaner will last you a long time. I do mine every couple years.

Paco

 

[Huskyguy68]

The 1zzfe engine is my specialty as I am creeping up to almost 130 engine rebuilds, I used to clean the VVTi Solenoid the way you mentioned (even used Gas and compressed air).

nothing cleans it as good as the Toyota method for testing it, which makes you test resistance (I have found all of them to be in specifications for this) and the other part of it is to see if you can actuate the solenoid by using a 12v battery.

There is a Diagram to connect the positive and negative lead to the correct pin on the solenoid and then hold the negative lead (or vise versa) on the negative terminal on the 12v battery and gently tap the positive lead on the positive terminal of the 12v battery. This tests to see if you solenoid will open and close in succession.

if you were to submerge part of the solenoid that actually sits internally in the engine in a gas container (I use a clear glass container for this) and actuate the solenoid, you can see quiet a bit of dirt/build come out of the solenoid, and then afterwards I would do the exact same thing in clean motor oil to properly lubricate it - this should clean & lubricate your solenoid and restore it back to OEM specifications.

Yes, i seen a few youtube vids that showed exactly what you mentioned with a 12V battery, but have yet to do so, lol.
But one weekend i will, i took the lazy easy route and i still noticed an improvement.
But since my engine has 233,000 klms on the OD, i will use the Toyota method next.
Them Vvt solenoids are expensive little buggers to buy brand new.
$240 or so in Canadian stores.
Might be able to buy one for $80/140 from Rockauto plus shipping, but only if the part failed or seized up.
A good cleaning is usually all that is needed on many auto parts.
Thanks for the good advice!

 

[CarlB]

Simple process of elimination if folks aren't doing in depth diagnostics.

 

[bigjl]

I've cleaned many and often and never noticed a difference

You never “noticed” a difference, that doesn’t mean there wasn’t a difference

 

[pbm]

I had never cleaned a MAF sensor in over 50 years of driving until last month. I bought a can of MAF cleaner (Berryman's and not CRC because that's what Walmart had in stock). I had an issue with my daughters Mazda after changing the spark plugs and cleaning the MAF sensor was recommended on this site. I cleaned it and IDK if it helped or not.

Since I had the MAF cleaner I decided to clean the MAF sensor for the first time on my 2008 Corolla w/ 148K and IDK if it helped or not but the Mazda MAF sensor had a visible wire while the Corolla MAF sensor was entirely enclosed and I didn't see anything that could be cleaned except for the outer casing. I bring this up because it was mentioned earlier in this thread that my generation Corolla benefits greatly from a MAF sensor cleaning.

 

[Huskyguy68]

I had never cleaned a MAF sensor in over 50 years of driving until last month. I bought a can of MAF cleaner (Berryman's and not CRC because that's what Walmart had in stock). I had an issue with my daughters Mazda after changing the spark plugs and cleaning the MAF sensor was recommended on this site. I cleaned it and IDK if it helped or not.

Since I had the MAF cleaner I decided to clean the MAF sensor for the first time on my 2008 Corolla w/ 148K and IDK if it helped or not but the Mazda MAF sensor had a visible wire while the Corolla MAF sensor was entirely enclosed and I didn't see anything that could be cleaned except for the outer casing. I bring this up because it was mentioned earlier in this thread that my generation Corolla benefits greatly from a MAF sensor cleaning.

08 Corolla sensor, I think is the same as the 04 matrix my brother has. I've cleaned his af sensor numerous times.
Just spray clean the the goofy looking sensors on the outside as you see in the photo. I also clean the electrical connections and the plug itself, let it air dry, reinstall everything.

If you wish, you can use Contact Electrical Cleaner spray instead of the MAF sensor spray......I have used either one numerous times in the past few years, no issues. But if you are concerned, Google it yourself or ask a mechanic. The CRC contact cleaner is fine.

If you want to go a step up, buy Deoxit contact cleaner. I bought some a few years ago, used it on all sorts of house hold appliances , clocks, old phone, electric fireplace fan, etc that were giving me long term issues, the DeoxiT cleaned up and got things working again. Problem is, a small can was like near $30 in Canada versus the generic contact cleaner, twice the size at $9-15.

 

[D1dad]

I spray the maf every spring which is also when I change the filter. With my cars design, I don’t even have to remove it. Easy cheap maintenance.

 

[spasm3]

I question if you should clean these MAF sensors if you are not having any issues.
Is the risk of damage or reduced life from messing with them worth it.

If you are running a good air filter and not some k&n or similar filter, is cleaning a issue?

Now if you have idle, drivability issues, sure it's worth a shot , but other wise ?

 

[Kira]

On a 90s ranger cleaning it cured the slight pinging under load.

Cleaning the MAF sensor is canonical on Ranger websites.
Upon shutdown, crankcase vapors linger throughout the intake. Some migrates forward enough to reach the intake tube, which is where the MAF lives.

 

[pbm]

Yes, i seen a few youtube vids that showed exactly what you mentioned with a 12V battery, but have yet to do so, lol.
But one weekend i will, i took the lazy easy route and i still noticed an improvement.
But since my engine has 233,000 klms on the OD, i will use the Toyota method next.
Them Vvt solenoids are expensive little buggers to buy brand new.
$240 or so in Canadian stores.
Might be able to buy one for $80/140 from Rockauto plus shipping, but only if the part failed or seized up.
A good cleaning is usually all that is needed on many auto parts.
Thanks for the good advice!

 

[pbm]

08 Corolla sensor, I think is the same as the 04 matrix my brother has. I've cleaned his af sensor numerous times.
Just spray clean the the goofy looking sensors on the outside as you see in the photo. I also clean the electrical connections and the plug itself, let it air dry, reinstall everything.

Thanks for the info....where is the photo located?

 

[Huskyguy68]

Thanks for the info....where is the photo located?

Im outdoors, but when i go back inside i get on my laptop and find it for you.

 

[Huskyguy68]

PBM.......

 

[oilstudent24]

Cleaning the MAF sensor is canonical on Ranger websites.
Upon shutdown, crankcase vapors linger throughout the intake. Some migrates forward enough to reach the intake tube, which is where the MAF lives.

I’m glad I saw it and made the rattle go away. Makes sense on why it did.