Civic is burning oil, advice please

[randomhero439]

Car: 2002 Honda Civic LX 5-speed 1.7L
Engine: D17A1 (non-vtec)
Mileage: 181,000
Oil spec: 5w-20
Current fill: Quaker State Advanced Durability 5w-20 with Purolator Classic

Previous owner changed the oil every 3-5k miles. No leaks, no smoke. Since ive owned it, seen a couple runs of synthetic. PCV valve has been cleaned about 8k miles ago. Looking in the oil fill hole, everything is very clean. My only modification is a eBay brand short ram intake. Could the low quality eBay cone filter cause the oil to burn more? Ive been contemplating putting an AEM Dryflow on.

Since ive owned the car, i knew i burned a fair amount of oil. This oil change i decided to track the amount it burns. So the first 800 miles of driving it burned 1/2 quart of oil. The driving was 50/50 city & highway. Driving on the highway the RPMs normally sit around 3000-3400 rpm (tight gearing). There are plenty of highway merges that see 4500rpm shifts (car has no balls).

So given that it burning 1/2 quart after 800 miles on 5w-20 conventional... what do you suggest? A high mileage 5w-20? Or possibly moving up to a 30 grade oil.

 

[OneEyeJack]

Going up in viscosity would only be temporary fix if it worked at all. Try valve seals and ARX first. If that does not work it's the oil rings below the compression rings and the only fix is to overhaul the engine or change cars. Anything less is wishful thinking.

 

[gregk24]

Could just be age and mileage. A GOOD high mileage 5w20 is what I would try first, if that doesn't work then go to a 5w30. PP would be a good choice as it is a thinner 5w30. Or you could just keep topping up with what you are using.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Going up in viscosity would only be temporary fix if it worked at all. Try valve seals and ARX first. If that does not work it's the oil rings below the compression rings and the only fix is to overhaul the engine or change cars. Anything less is wishful thinking.


Likely the rings... i dont really care enough to tear apart the engine.

Originally Posted By: gregk24
Could just be age and mileage. A GOOD high mileage 5w20 is what I would try first, if that doesn't work then go to a 5w30. PP would be a good choice as it is a thinner 5w30. Or you could just keep topping up with what you are using.


What are thoughts on blending in 1qt of 5w-30?

I would like to hear some thoughts from some other people as well.

 

[05LGTLtd]

I think I'd spend a few bucks on a new PCV and check/replace the hoses going to it as well before throwing in the towel. If no better then going to a HM 5w-30 might slow down the losses, and would be my next move. One quart of 5w-30 in the mix most likely wont change much.

If you think it is stuck rings, you could pull the plugs and do a piston soak with your cocktail of choice prior to the next change. Not much to lose there, even if it is wishful thinking...

 

[Quest]

My dad has a D17A1 civic also, and currently has in-excess of 146k in odo. No oil burning issues, and usually runs the cheepest conventional oil available to me (I do the changes for him): Q-state, pyb, valvoline, etc.

Things you need to do to check/confirm your engine status:

(1) wet/dry compression test. If there's no signification deviation between wet and dry and compression are within specs, then your compression rings are ok; if wet/dry tests indicate significant variations (6psi or more), then your compression rin is worn or cylinder wall in-question.

If your ram air filter is foam type, that may be an issue. I had, in the past, use foam K&N filter but gave up shortly due to elevated cylinder wall wear (elevated Si count).

(2) check/replace PCV valve with fresh factory OE ones. Never count on aftermarket ones.

(3) your oil control ring maybe stuck. For this the only way is to try some "magic elixir" commonly mentioned on BITOGs and hope and pray that it works to free up the control rings enough to let them perform their duty.

If all else fails, consider this engine done and just simply drive it by frequently topping up with oil.

Good luck.

Q.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: Quest
My dad has a D17A1 civic also, and currently has in-excess of 146k in odo. No oil burning issues, and usually runs the cheepest conventional oil available to me (I do the changes for him): Q-state, pyb, valvoline, etc.

Things you need to do to check/confirm your engine status:

(1) wet/dry compression test. If there's no signification deviation between wet and dry and compression are within specs, then your compression rings are ok; if wet/dry tests indicate significant variations (6psi or more), then your compression rin is worn or cylinder wall in-question.

If your ram air filter is foam type, that may be an issue. I had, in the past, use foam K&N filter but gave up shortly due to elevated cylinder wall wear (elevated Si count).

(2) check/replace PCV valve with fresh factory OE ones. Never count on aftermarket ones.

(3) your oil control ring maybe stuck. For this the only way is to try some "magic elixir" commonly mentioned on BITOGs and hope and pray that it works to free up the control rings enough to let them perform their duty.

If all else fails, consider this engine done and just simply drive it by frequently topping up with oil.

Good luck.

Q.


Ill do a compression test before i replace anything. If the compression is even and within spec, ill replace the PCV and air filter.

I ran some Gumout Regane HM a few weeks ago, and my fuel economy jumped 3mpg during that tank of gas, than went back down to its normal mpg.

What do you recommend as a magic elixir? Not AutoRX, too expensive for my concerns. Something i can pick up at Walmart preferably.

 

[05LGTLtd]

Walmart carries MMO, Seafoam and Chemtool. Napa carries, or can get, LM pro-line flush. Kreen is mail order only, but gets lots of airtime in the oil additives section.

Chemtool doesnt have instructions for crank use, or piston soak. Hasn't stopped folks from using for that. Using and solvent, esp off label use, in your oil is a risk. Do your homework and make a decision then.

I've used MMO for "in use cleaning" and I was satisfied with results. I a lot more comfortable with MMO and Kreen than Chemtool or seafoam in oil. I've also used LM flush, and my engine didn't tank...

 

[Quest]

try kreen.

Q.

 

[JethroBodine]

I would switch oil brands to Maxlife 5w30 Synblend from Walmart and run 2-3 5000 mile intervals and monitor. I would not do anything else except inspect the engine for a possible leak. It has 180k on it and probably weeping a bit past the valve seals. Give the HM oil a chance to work on that. OH...if you have a foam or K&N type air filter...switch to paper.

 

[slug_bug]

1/2 a quart at 800 miles isn't that terrible. How long have you been running QSUD? When I switched to that oil I noticed a large increase in oil consumption. I've added 2 quarts of T6 5w-40 as the 5w-20 burned up and now consumption has slowed way down. Totally different engine, but I'm going to a blend next OC, probably 5w-30.

 

[bigt61]

5W-30 MaxLife or some 10W-30 T5 will slow it down, but as stated above, half a quart every 800 miles in an old hi mileage Civic isn't horrible. When you start spending more on oil than gas, that's horrible. I'd rather be topping off with a cheap dino than an expensive synthetic if consumption continues. On the plus side, you never really have to change your oil - you're changing it all the time.

 

[danthaman1980]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
What are thoughts on blending in 1qt of 5w-30?

I would like to hear some thoughts from some other people as well.


A couple of thoughts:

If you want to thicken up a 5W-20, try a 50/50 blend of 5W-20 and 5W-30. That will give you a viscosity right at the top of the 5W-20 range/bottom of the 5W-30 range.

If you want to do the math, I'd be shooting for a KV100 of 9.5cSt and HTHS of 2.8cP

HM 5W-20s might be useful trying to treat leaks, but I wouldn't waste my time trying out HM 5W-20s to try to slow down oil burning - IMO there just isn't enough viscosity difference between 5W-20 and HM 5W-20 to matter.

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted By: slug_bug
1/2 a quart at 800 miles isn't that terrible. How long have you been running QSUD? When I switched to that oil I noticed a large increase in oil consumption. I've added 2 quarts of T6 5w-40 as the 5w-20 burned up and now consumption has slowed way down. Totally different engine, but I'm going to a blend next OC, probably 5w-30.
Actually he's running the green bottle, QSAD, I would definitely try a 5W30, something along the lines of MaxLife or Defy, bet you'll see an improvement. 1 quart/1600 miles isn't bad for an engine with 180K on it!

 

[SatinSilver]

When my 99 Accord I4 started to burn oil I did two things. Replaced the pcv valve with an oem version and started to top off with Maxlife. Solved the consumption issues.

 

[FZ1]

5w-20 Mobil Super hi mileage blend or Valvoline Maxlife blend.

 

[randomhero439]

Thanks for all the helpful tips guys, ill start running a 5w-30. Hopefully this curbs consumption.

Ill still do a compression test if i ever find the time to do it.

 

[surfstar]

Some folks swear that Lubro/Liqui Moly MoS2 will help with consumption and fuel economy. I *think* my engines run quieter with it. An off-the-shelf (NAPA) additive you could try if you wanted to.

I'd start with HM (high-mileage) oils too, as suggested.

 

[Voltmaster]

Maxlife seems to do great things for high milage cars. Id switch to it permanently.

my 2000 accord is starting to burn oil after I switched back n forth between synth and convential.

 

[901Memphis]

I noticed that you cleaned your Pcv valve. I would suggest replacing it as its hard to tell I they are bad if the spring is only slightly worn.

If that doesn't help just keep feeding it conventional of either 5w20 or 5w30 and it should still hit 300k miles. They run pretty happy on either oil, 5w30 Max Life is a good place to start.