civic and drain interval

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tried to avoid making a thread but here it goes. car in signature, 250,xxx plus miles. previous owner did take pretty good care of it. 3,000 mile oil changes. not sure how long i should run this PYB 5w30. The car sees a 40 plus mile commute the oil gets exercised with some highway miles.

i plan on cramming some serious MPG on this car. Next oil change or 2 is getting 0w-30 AFE.

any input appreciated.
 
Is 5000 miles to easy to remember? I'm sure it could go longer, I took our D17 to 7500 miles and that seemed early.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Is 5000 miles to easy to remember? I'm sure it could go longer, I took our D17 to 7500 miles and that seemed early.


thought it was more of a mileage and wear fact/opinion/experience. plan on running the same filter (Fram extended guard) for 10,xxx miles or little more. as far as i know still has the original internals. pretty sure the head gasket never blew either.
 
10,000 miles on that on PYB is probably the max you can do but not outrageous. I'd rather do that on AFE. Better than AFE 0-30 would probably be any 20 weight.

I think the reputation for the B and D series head gaskets is more from their performance/tuning/learning driver clientielle than a common problem. I haven't heard/seen a lot of them on daily drivers. At that mileage, I'd assume this a daily driver. At 24 hours of LeMons yes that head gasket is a goner.

How is the timing belt?
 
If this is a 1.6, watch your oil consumption - some early 1990's 1.6 Honds burn a LOT of oil.

When i worked at a WM TLE in 2007, EVERY single car that came in with this engine was very low on oil, many with none showing on the d/s.

Didn't seem to affect how they ran, though!
 
Sorry for not mentioning this before it is the D15B7. In my opinion a very strong, reliable if treated with respect and not abused.

The timing belt was done about 40,000 ago.

Like I mentioned, a pretty well maintained car for age, mileage, etc. Price was kind of steep for the things it needed/s. But nothing I wanted to pass up. Based on the community of forums I participate in, it should not be very hard to "shift" this car onto another enthusiast. 5 speed gearbox, manual steering rack, unmolested hatchback with original interior.
 
How crazy are you willing to go to crank out more MPGs from it? Some hybrid hypermilers are using 0w10 since they drive their cars so gently (to save fuel). If you don't think you'll push your car hard enough, perhaps a 5w20 or 0w20 if you are feeling brave?
 
I have a volvo that I now do 10K OCI's with Mobil1 10W40HM. It now has 320K on it. It burns a quart ever 2,500 miles, so I am replenishing the oil as it goes. I could probably get away with dino, but synth works for me. If you are burning any oil, you can easily go 10K since you will be replenishing it as you go.
 
Forget the xx30. These cars love 5W20 and lower. Try MC blend or PYB. I think they're also back speced for 0W20.
 
Originally Posted By: shrooms
Forget the xx30. These cars love 5W20 and lower. Try MC blend or PYB. I think they're also back speced for 0W20.


The original plan was to run a 0w-20, but I could not find it in 5 qt jugs, even though it only has a 3.2 sump. I rather have the better buy and top off as needed.

Back to the original post, I'm guessing 5,000 to 6,000 on the PYB? Will probably see 4 month to 5 month in the pan then change it out.
 
Originally Posted By: iluvhonda
Originally Posted By: shrooms
Forget the xx30. These cars love 5W20 and lower. Try MC blend or PYB. I think they're also back speced for 0W20.


The original plan was to run a 0w-20, but I could not find it in 5 qt jugs, even though it only has a 3.2 sump. I rather have the better buy and top off as needed.

Back to the original post, I'm guessing 5,000 to 6,000 on the PYB? Will probably see 4 month to 5 month in the pan then change it out.

Ah so are you thinking 0w30 will save you more gas than 5w20? The winter ratings all have different tests. The 5w test is different from the 0w test and they don't put all oils through all tests. Here's some specs to change your mind.

M1 5w20 50.1cSt @ 40C, 9cSt @ 100C
M1 0w30 56.7cSt @ 40C, 10.6cSt @ 100C

I think you will save more fuel with the 5w20. I'm not a huge fan of the API ratings if you can't tell =P
 
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: iluvhonda
Originally Posted By: shrooms
Forget the xx30. These cars love 5W20 and lower. Try MC blend or PYB. I think they're also back speced for 0W20.


The original plan was to run a 0w-20, but I could not find it in 5 qt jugs, even though it only has a 3.2 sump. I rather have the better buy and top off as needed.

Back to the original post, I'm guessing 5,000 to 6,000 on the PYB? Will probably see 4 month to 5 month in the pan then change it out.

Ah so are you thinking 0w30 will save you more gas than 5w20? The winter ratings all have different tests. The 5w test is different from the 0w test and they don't put all oils through all tests. Here's some specs to change your mind.

M1 5w20 50.1cSt @ 40C, 9cSt @ 100C
M1 0w30 56.7cSt @ 40C, 10.6cSt @ 100C

I think you will save more fuel with the 5w20. I'm not a huge fan of the API ratings if you can't tell =P


I'm telling you. The 20wt to 30wt comparison may be small but made a difference for me.

20wt FTW!
 
Originally Posted By: shrooms
I'm telling you. The 20wt to 30wt comparison may be small but made a difference for me.

20wt FTW!

My mom felt the difference too when I switched from GC to Maxlife 5w20 on her 2003 Tribute with the Duratec 3.0 V6. I've been using the Maxlife ever since. So I guess between the two of use, we have a vote for a Honda engine and vote for a Ford engine prefering 20s.

However, I do not vote for 20s in the Hyundai engines I've worked on (2007 V6 Sonata, 2005 Elantra, 2006 Tuscon) and GM doesn't even want 20s anyways. Also, I don't feel confident putting it in my dad's 2000 Camry which has the 5S-FE 2.2 4 cylinder. I'm still experimenting on my 2010 Mazda3 with the 2.0 MZR engine.

I wish we had more to go on than personal experiences so we can make a list of true 20 weight engines and wouldn't be 20 weight engines if it weren't for CAFE.
 
I lost focus in this thread. Though the remarks about 5w-20 made me second guess my decision of buying the 0w-30 ahead of time. I chose the 0w-30 for the winter start up.

So answer me this one. For motors that are spec'd for 5w30 why not make the switch to 5w-20? And what benefits does the 5w30 offer that 5w-20 does not?
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Different Strokes. Get a synthetic oil and do 6 month ocis.


I understand the "cST" for "different strokes". Is a lower cST always gonna benefit a motor or is there times where a higher cST may be beneficial for certain motor? Wonder if should make the switch to the 20 weight since all my vehicles are spec'd for the standard 30 weight..
 
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