Choosing the right 2 stroke oil for my vintage PWC
- Thread starter GreatLakesGuy
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Originally Posted By: CT8
The bike looks about as new as a used watercraft can be.
Thanks, it's in pretty mint condition for being 25 years old. P.o. was the o.o, and it was always garage stored, has low hours, was meticulously maintained, all of that.
Originally Posted By: CT8
... ashless additives leave less deposits on lower rpm and sustained rpm engine operation.
Right, so an ashless oil is what I need. To be clear, the additives are what make it ashless, right?
The bike looks about as new as a used watercraft can be.
Thanks, it's in pretty mint condition for being 25 years old. P.o. was the o.o, and it was always garage stored, has low hours, was meticulously maintained, all of that.
Originally Posted By: CT8
... ashless additives leave less deposits on lower rpm and sustained rpm engine operation.
Right, so an ashless oil is what I need. To be clear, the additives are what make it ashless, right?
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Hello everyone! My first post.
I have been a pwc tech. since your wetbike was sitting in a showroom. I'm on the East coast of Australia and 95% of the ski's I work on only ever see fresh eater if it comes out of a hose. The reason that most marine manufacturers run tcw ashless oils, as stated earlier is they are generally lower specific power and lower rpm than a highly strung bike of kart engine. Early outboards mostly specified specified 50:1 premix ratio and many users ran these motors for hours at, or just above idle. Think dragging lures. TCW oils have a more agressive detergent package to help prevent port clogging and plug fouling. Also, TCW oils generally have a much better corrosion preventing formula. The PWC manufactures specify TCW oils for the corrosion protection and the fact that even the high performance engines only pull around 7000rpm with relatively low specific hp in stock form. They do this because they need a nice fat powerband due to varying loads and lack of gearbox.
What about Seadoo's and their low ash oils? I hear you say. Seadoo was specifying low ash oil before they introduced variable ex ports because they ran hotter due to considerably higher specific output than the other brands at the time = higher piston temps and loads.
An interesting story. Back in the day I was maintaining a fleet of 580cc, 55hp Seadoo sp's for hire use. These were also governed to probably around 40hp. Due to salt water use and tourists constantly drowning the engines, we used to get about 400 hrs out of a crank. This was on Bombardier XP mineral oil. SWitched to shell TCW3 and crank life went up to 1000 hrs.
TCW stands for two cycle watercooled. The standards have been upgraded a few times over the years. TCW, TCW2 then TCW3.
Run a TCW3 rated oil and have peace of mind.
Would I run TCW in a 125cc powervalved bike? Noooo.
Would I run TCW in a highly modified pwc or outboard? Noooo. However, I would be using fogging oil on the marine gear after every ride.
I have been a pwc tech. since your wetbike was sitting in a showroom. I'm on the East coast of Australia and 95% of the ski's I work on only ever see fresh eater if it comes out of a hose. The reason that most marine manufacturers run tcw ashless oils, as stated earlier is they are generally lower specific power and lower rpm than a highly strung bike of kart engine. Early outboards mostly specified specified 50:1 premix ratio and many users ran these motors for hours at, or just above idle. Think dragging lures. TCW oils have a more agressive detergent package to help prevent port clogging and plug fouling. Also, TCW oils generally have a much better corrosion preventing formula. The PWC manufactures specify TCW oils for the corrosion protection and the fact that even the high performance engines only pull around 7000rpm with relatively low specific hp in stock form. They do this because they need a nice fat powerband due to varying loads and lack of gearbox.
What about Seadoo's and their low ash oils? I hear you say. Seadoo was specifying low ash oil before they introduced variable ex ports because they ran hotter due to considerably higher specific output than the other brands at the time = higher piston temps and loads.
An interesting story. Back in the day I was maintaining a fleet of 580cc, 55hp Seadoo sp's for hire use. These were also governed to probably around 40hp. Due to salt water use and tourists constantly drowning the engines, we used to get about 400 hrs out of a crank. This was on Bombardier XP mineral oil. SWitched to shell TCW3 and crank life went up to 1000 hrs.
TCW stands for two cycle watercooled. The standards have been upgraded a few times over the years. TCW, TCW2 then TCW3.
Run a TCW3 rated oil and have peace of mind.
Would I run TCW in a 125cc powervalved bike? Noooo.
Would I run TCW in a highly modified pwc or outboard? Noooo. However, I would be using fogging oil on the marine gear after every ride.
Great Lakes Guy. A bit of friendly wetbike advice.
They are VERY difficult to ride in no wake zones and to reboard after falling, and you will fall off it. That combined with the fact that the engine is mostly under the waterline at low speeds means that they were notorious for water reverting back through the exhaust ports and drowning the engine. Easy to get going though. Carry a 13/16 plug socket. remove the plugs and blow the water out. Restart it and ride it. I can't remember if they have an electric bilge pump. If not, install one. Rule make a nice automatic 500 gph one. Wire it up as per the instructions and wire it so it is both auto and manual.
Also, keep an eye on the tightness and condition of the front foil linkage fasteners and bushes. The front foil had a habit of falling off with exactly the same effect as a front wheel falling off a motorcycle.
They are a lot of fun to ride though.
They are VERY difficult to ride in no wake zones and to reboard after falling, and you will fall off it. That combined with the fact that the engine is mostly under the waterline at low speeds means that they were notorious for water reverting back through the exhaust ports and drowning the engine. Easy to get going though. Carry a 13/16 plug socket. remove the plugs and blow the water out. Restart it and ride it. I can't remember if they have an electric bilge pump. If not, install one. Rule make a nice automatic 500 gph one. Wire it up as per the instructions and wire it so it is both auto and manual.
Also, keep an eye on the tightness and condition of the front foil linkage fasteners and bushes. The front foil had a habit of falling off with exactly the same effect as a front wheel falling off a motorcycle.
They are a lot of fun to ride though.
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