Where is the best location to check ATF temperature? I have been checking it at the pan with an infrared thermometer. Is the temperature at this location a good indication of the temperature inside the transmission?
Checking ATF Temperature
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Probably but you are actually getting the surface temp of the pan. I would think the actual fluid is hotter. Most OBDII scanners will report the ATF temp.
Also the fluid in the pan is after it has gone through any cooler you might have. The hottest temp would be exiting the torque converter when it should then go to the cooler.
Also the fluid in the pan is after it has gone through any cooler you might have. The hottest temp would be exiting the torque converter when it should then go to the cooler.
Time to purchase VCDS and observe measured values. The fluid in the transmission is usually 5-10°C hotter than the pan.
Originally Posted By: outoforder
Where is the best location to check ATF temperature? I have been checking it at the pan with an infrared thermometer. Is the temperature at this location a good indication of the temperature inside the transmission?
In my experience not really. The emissivity varies based on pan material and even paint.
I'm not sure if the famous Scanguage II has trans temp on your vehicle. Or if you find a friend with bootleg software that can help you see what your ir gun deviation from actual temp is.
Where is the best location to check ATF temperature? I have been checking it at the pan with an infrared thermometer. Is the temperature at this location a good indication of the temperature inside the transmission?
In my experience not really. The emissivity varies based on pan material and even paint.
I'm not sure if the famous Scanguage II has trans temp on your vehicle. Or if you find a friend with bootleg software that can help you see what your ir gun deviation from actual temp is.
get a wireless connection ,then connect the gizmo that send the wireless data in the computer plug ( might need an adaptor for your specific make ,then go on your smartphone and grab said data with a program for that ( avail in android) not very costly and is very awsome
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Probably but you are actually getting the surface temp of the pan. I would think the actual fluid is hotter. Most OBDII scanners will report the ATF temp.
Also the fluid in the pan is after it has gone through any cooler you might have. The hottest temp would be exiting the torque converter when it should then go to the cooler.
I have easy access to the cooler lines. Would the line to the cooler give a good reading of true transmission temp?
Probably but you are actually getting the surface temp of the pan. I would think the actual fluid is hotter. Most OBDII scanners will report the ATF temp.
Also the fluid in the pan is after it has gone through any cooler you might have. The hottest temp would be exiting the torque converter when it should then go to the cooler.
I have easy access to the cooler lines. Would the line to the cooler give a good reading of true transmission temp?
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Originally Posted By: outoforder
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Probably but you are actually getting the surface temp of the pan. I would think the actual fluid is hotter. Most OBDII scanners will report the ATF temp.
Also the fluid in the pan is after it has gone through any cooler you might have. The hottest temp would be exiting the torque converter when it should then go to the cooler.
I have easy access to the cooler lines. Would the line to the cooler give a good reading of true transmission temp?
Yes that would be the hottest oil in the trans I would think.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Probably but you are actually getting the surface temp of the pan. I would think the actual fluid is hotter. Most OBDII scanners will report the ATF temp.
Also the fluid in the pan is after it has gone through any cooler you might have. The hottest temp would be exiting the torque converter when it should then go to the cooler.
I have easy access to the cooler lines. Would the line to the cooler give a good reading of true transmission temp?
Yes that would be the hottest oil in the trans I would think.
I made a probe out of a long cable tie and attached a modified small oven/meat thermometer to the end of it. It fits nicely down the fill tube. I use it to get the actual temperature of the transmission fluid, which is needed to check the ATF level in my Jeep Liberty. I stumbled upon the idea on the www.
Casing temp in the tundra reads 5-7F cooler than what I measure on fluid temp, when running easy and unloaded. (the sender was first in the trans casing and was later plumbed in to the outlet line).
Brass plumbing T with the sender works well, either leaving the trans (screwed directly in) or inline with hose barbs (solder a ground lead to the T first). On the truck the sender is is in the remote filter mount. Fluid-based readings show the hill climb spikes, whereas the casing mount didn't so much.
Brass plumbing T with the sender works well, either leaving the trans (screwed directly in) or inline with hose barbs (solder a ground lead to the T first). On the truck the sender is is in the remote filter mount. Fluid-based readings show the hill climb spikes, whereas the casing mount didn't so much.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Time to purchase VCDS and observe measured values. The fluid in the transmission is usually 5-10°C hotter than the pan.
So by adding 10 degrees C to my measured pan temperature, I should get a good indication what my actually transmission temperature is? I am throwing a P1743 code on my 4r100 transmission. Torque converter won't lockup which is suppose to cause excess heat. However, I always drive with the OD button off so my TC doesn't lock up anyways. Truck currently shifting ok. I'm trying to squeeze as much life out of the transmission as possible. My thinking is if the transmission temps are reasonable, then I may make it through another summer going to the lake.
Time to purchase VCDS and observe measured values. The fluid in the transmission is usually 5-10°C hotter than the pan.
So by adding 10 degrees C to my measured pan temperature, I should get a good indication what my actually transmission temperature is? I am throwing a P1743 code on my 4r100 transmission. Torque converter won't lockup which is suppose to cause excess heat. However, I always drive with the OD button off so my TC doesn't lock up anyways. Truck currently shifting ok. I'm trying to squeeze as much life out of the transmission as possible. My thinking is if the transmission temps are reasonable, then I may make it through another summer going to the lake.
Correction: The code is P1744
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
Originally Posted By: meborder
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
I use to tune Taurus SHOs. I set the lockup for first gear once. That doesn't work well.
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
I use to tune Taurus SHOs. I set the lockup for first gear once. That doesn't work well.
Originally Posted By: meborder
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
Other than increased heat, is there any mechanical harm being done by TC not locking up when commanded by the PCM?
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
Other than increased heat, is there any mechanical harm being done by TC not locking up when commanded by the PCM?
Wouldn't think so. If the clutch is shot already then any damage has already be done.
If the pcm is commanding lock up and not seeing it then that explains your code.
If the pcm is commanding lock up and not seeing it then that explains your code.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: meborder
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
I use to tune Taurus SHOs. I set the lockup for first gear once. That doesn't work well.
FWIW, the factory programming on the 4r100 will command lock up in 1st heat above 75% throttle, so long as trans temp and speed is adequate.
Presumably, this is to help control trams temps on long grades when pulling at the maximum loads.
This coming from one of the engineers who designed and worked on them at ford.
Originally Posted By: meborder
Running with OD locked out on a 4r100 will not keep the torque converter from locking up.
TC lockup is available, as commanded by the PCM, in every gear regardless of gear selector position.
I use to tune Taurus SHOs. I set the lockup for first gear once. That doesn't work well.
FWIW, the factory programming on the 4r100 will command lock up in 1st heat above 75% throttle, so long as trans temp and speed is adequate.
Presumably, this is to help control trams temps on long grades when pulling at the maximum loads.
This coming from one of the engineers who designed and worked on them at ford.
Originally Posted By: outoforder
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Time to purchase VCDS and observe measured values. The fluid in the transmission is usually 5-10°C hotter than the pan.
So by adding 10 degrees C to my measured pan temperature, I should get a good indication what my actually transmission temperature is? I am throwing a P1743 code on my 4r100 transmission. Torque converter won't lockup which is suppose to cause excess heat. However, I always drive with the OD button off so my TC doesn't lock up anyways. Truck currently shifting ok. I'm trying to squeeze as much life out of the transmission as possible. My thinking is if the transmission temps are reasonable, then I may make it through another summer going to the lake.
why dont you just put a nice trans cooler on it?
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Time to purchase VCDS and observe measured values. The fluid in the transmission is usually 5-10°C hotter than the pan.
So by adding 10 degrees C to my measured pan temperature, I should get a good indication what my actually transmission temperature is? I am throwing a P1743 code on my 4r100 transmission. Torque converter won't lockup which is suppose to cause excess heat. However, I always drive with the OD button off so my TC doesn't lock up anyways. Truck currently shifting ok. I'm trying to squeeze as much life out of the transmission as possible. My thinking is if the transmission temps are reasonable, then I may make it through another summer going to the lake.
why dont you just put a nice trans cooler on it?
If you want to put in a gauge, install it in the pressure test port. That location will track within a degree or two of the internal temp sender.
Or get a scan gauge (or equivalent) and read the actual temp as read by the pcm.
If you want to upgrade coolers, get one for a 05+ with the 6.0PSD. That is about the biggest and baddest cooler you are going to find. And aside from adapting your 3/8 lines to the coolers 1/2 lines, it is a drop in replacement.
Last I knew they were being made by doorman and are widely available.
Remove your factory air cooler first. Dont run two auxiliary coolers.
And dont bypass the cooler in the radiator. Ford tried that in 99 and early 00 and it was a miserable failure.
Factory plumbing puts the oil-water cooler first then the air cooler last for best cooling.
Or get a scan gauge (or equivalent) and read the actual temp as read by the pcm.
If you want to upgrade coolers, get one for a 05+ with the 6.0PSD. That is about the biggest and baddest cooler you are going to find. And aside from adapting your 3/8 lines to the coolers 1/2 lines, it is a drop in replacement.
Last I knew they were being made by doorman and are widely available.
Remove your factory air cooler first. Dont run two auxiliary coolers.
And dont bypass the cooler in the radiator. Ford tried that in 99 and early 00 and it was a miserable failure.
Factory plumbing puts the oil-water cooler first then the air cooler last for best cooling.
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