Cheap German cars

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted by ram_man
...

Is there anything I should look for or be aware of if I look at it? Anything to consider?

[off-topic]
Ram_Man,

-have you worked on VW/BMW cars before?
-How many VW/BMW cars you see on your local roads?
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by ram_man
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d/saint-louis-passat-18t-manual/6822129445.html

Opinions on this Passat please


Here's a rather amusing thread on that engine:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunen...ailures/59539-audi-vw-1-8t-engine-sludge

Had that car with that engine.
Two things:
1. It is prone to sludge, BUT only in the US and primarily pre-2001 models.
VW wanted to simplify maintenance, so they told owners: use any oil as long as it is 5W30, 10W30 or 5W40. No indication whether it should be synthetic or not. At the same time, they told European owners that they MUST use VW502.00 oil which is by default 0/5W40 (or rarely 10W40) or thick 0/5W30 (HTHS above 3.5).
In 2001 VW/Audi issued bulletin to US dealerships: Only VW502.00 to be used with larger oil filter.
That is B5.5 version which means it suppose to have steady diet of VW502.00 oil. One might say any synthetic: Nope, my friends Audi A4 bombed at 80k with diet of M1 5W30 that you can get in Wal mart.
My experience was: I got one with 40k. Used strictly German Castrol 0W30 (back in the days when it was green, and then moved to amber color). Occasionally I would try M1 0W40 (noisier), Castrol 5W40 (lifter noise after 4k, due to oil) or Pennzoil Ultra 5W40. I traded in car for VW cc with some 110k, and engine was in pristine condition. No single trace of sludge.
2. Chain. That engine has belt and chain in the back. Chain will start to rattle, but it is not uber expensive.

That Passat is probably best made Passat ever. It has longitudinal engine and it is basically Audi underneath. It is super solid car, and 1.8T is better choice than 2.8 V6. If you can find one in good condition, get it.



Is there anything I should look for or be aware of if I look at it? Anything to consider?

Take it to good VW indy mechanic and pay him to check car.
I mean, if it is automatic tranny, while very good on these Passat's, like in any car, they can fail.
Cold start rattling in the back of the engine: chain.
Any service records? These need timing belt replacement, preferably every 90k.
If you never had VW, take it to indy mechanic and pay for check up. You will not be able to check car by asking internet people to do it.
 
I'm asking what are some common things to be familiar with . I'm worked on a couple vw in my time but i don't know much about them. I don't know their common issues and stuff very well
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by ram_man
https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d/saint-louis-passat-18t-manual/6822129445.html

Opinions on this Passat please


Here's a rather amusing thread on that engine:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunen...ailures/59539-audi-vw-1-8t-engine-sludge


Sounds like they are good engines but are overly picky about maintenance. Sounds like vw didn't provide the best oci advice either.


Yup, they are sensitive to maintenance. You might be able to see the head through the oil fill cap, if it looks like somebody packed it with axel grease, run away
21.gif
 
That's fair. Was looking them up it doesn't look to hard to work on overall. And most of the parts don't seem to be to expensive
 
Last edited:
Ok off topic but what do you guys know about Toyota Celica's i found a 97 has 200,000 miles but it's very very clean has had the water pump timing belt and stuff done has been lowered with sway bar upgrades and has a stage 2 clutch. Anything i should know about them?
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Ok off topic but what do you guys know about Toyota Celica's i found a 97 has 200,000 miles but it's very very clean has had the water pump timing belt and stuff done has been lowered with sway bar upgrades and has a stage 2 clutch. Anything i should know about them?

How is the clutch?
SIL had to change it at 150k miles.
Kind of small inside if you have to cart the kids around.
I hope you don't have long legs or long torso.
For the rest seemed like a pretty good ride. (but she was literally driving like an old lady)
 
Originally Posted by edyvw

Take it to good VW indy mechanic and pay him to check car.
I mean, if it is automatic tranny, while very good on these Passat's, like in any car, they can fail.
Cold start rattling in the back of the engine: chain.
Any service records? These need timing belt replacement, preferably every 90k.
If you never had VW, take it to indy mechanic and pay for check up. You will not be able to check car by asking internet people to do it.

So these engines have both a timing belt and a chain???
 
Originally Posted by skyactiv
I'll give you an example on a "Cheap" German car in my signature.

The dual-mass flywheel gave out and by the time I bought the parts and tools to replace it and the clutch, I had $1500 in the job doing it myself.
Ever hear of triple square bit sockets? You'll need them to work on a German vehicle unless it's really old.

Look up the price for a dual-mass flywheel. Of course you could install a solid flywheel, but given your previous threads about wheel balance issues,
I guarantee you wont like it.


Yes, that's EXACTLY why I said what I said in my prior post that replacement parts were more expensive. For the guy who said "no they aren't", here you go.

I mean, really basic things like spark plugs and air/oil filters aren't any more expensive, granted. Brake rotors/pads are also normal prices. Tires are normal price. But get into anything like Skyactiv mentions, well, it gets expensive quick. And then there are the specialized tools, as he mentioned. I've never seen a car that needed a $400 tool to install a headgasket. Except BMW...

Sure, go ahead and tell me I'm wrong. I've already "lived the dream" and there's a reason I said what I said. Just all kinds of really expensive stuff on these cars.

I agree with the other posters, if you really want a German car try a VW, at least in that case used parts will be plentiful at junkyards.
 
Originally Posted by zorobabel
Originally Posted by edyvw

Take it to good VW indy mechanic and pay him to check car.
I mean, if it is automatic tranny, while very good on these Passat's, like in any car, they can fail.
Cold start rattling in the back of the engine: chain.
Any service records? These need timing belt replacement, preferably every 90k.
If you never had VW, take it to indy mechanic and pay for check up. You will not be able to check car by asking internet people to do it.

So these engines have both a timing belt and a chain???

Yes. It is valvetrain chain, and in the back of the engine. Belt is in front, and can be bit of work. Usually for best access if not expert in changing on this model, to take out front bumper and fans.
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
I'm asking what are some common things to be familiar with . I'm worked on a couple vw in my time but i don't know much about them. I don't know their common issues and stuff very well

Also, if AC is not working, first check relay No. 13. Those are prone to fail.
 
Originally Posted by zorobabel
Originally Posted by edyvw

Take it to good VW indy mechanic and pay him to check car.
I mean, if it is automatic tranny, while very good on these Passat's, like in any car, they can fail.
Cold start rattling in the back of the engine: chain.
Any service records? These need timing belt replacement, preferably every 90k.
If you never had VW, take it to indy mechanic and pay for check up. You will not be able to check car by asking internet people to do it.

So these engines have both a timing belt and a chain???


They do have both, a timing belt and a camshaft chain. The timing belt drives one camshaft via the crankshaft. That camshaft drives the other camshaft via a short chain. Replacing the cam chain is not very difficult. The valve cover has to come off and one cam has to be removed.Replacing the timing belt is way more laborious. Why did VW use not just a single chain or belt? This engine is capable of making up to 133hp per liter. For this high-performance engine, they chose the crank-to-cam belt for better efficiency and less noise but used a cam chain for durability where needed. The belt should be replaced in regular intervals. The chain or chain tensioner announce their demise well in advance and probably not before 200k miles.
 
[/quote]
fair enough. The 3 series had one other issue, a coolant check engine light was on. Dealer refused to fix it. Looked it up....it was a fairly common issue (can't remember what it exactly was) but it was not cheap to fix as I recall. So I guess unless I feel like fixing constant problems....I'll stick with the Toyota's. That said, in my opinion, Toyota's days as being dominant in quality are probably in the past. I started driving them back in 1986 and that was a period where nothing compared to a Toyota in terms of reliability. Nowdays....most everyone seems to have caught up.[/quote]
What are constant issues? Do share with us as others might benefit from that knowledge![/quote]
well if I did, that would be ancedotal information. I prefer to follow the publications that study such things over "just my experience". But point taken....I doubt BMW's have constant issues...
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Hey anyone have any opinions on an 09 vw rabbit?
If it has the 2.5 5-cyl engine, then it's probably one of the least troublesome German cars in recent history.
 
It does says the serpentine belt sqeaks a little and the valve cover seeps oil.. 123,000 miles asking $3500
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
It does says the serpentine belt sqeaks a little and the valve cover seeps oil.. 123,000 miles asking $3500


Probably needs a tensioner(s) and belts. At 123K I bet they're original. There are two separate belts on this engine and can be a pain in the pecker to replace, but doable through the fenderwell. The alternator also has a clutch that can go bad, but is a hit or miss issue.

The valve cover leak is more than likely the vacuum pump leaking; it's a super common issue on 2.5's. Being a manual it isn't a bad swap at all. If it is the valve cover gasket it isn't too bad to replace.

Some reason the hoods on Rabbit's/Jetta's of that era are prone to rust. It starts with bubbling on the underside near the latch assembly.

Other than that they are a solid car IMO. I wouldn't be too concerned about the exhaust (AWE makes some good stuff; it was a pricey system) as most do sound decent with the 5 banger, but I would swap back to the original engine cover/airbox combo. Looks from the pictures the owner has already swapped out coil packs. I wouldn't be afraid of it. I do believe it has some rear brake issues as you can see the brown buildup on the drivers side wheel. Those cars are rear biased if I recall correctly.
 
What kind of rear brake issues would you be concerned with? He did mention through text message that it does intermittently throw a p2181 code . For coolant system performance.
He said he replaced the temp sensor so my hunch is it needs a thermostat possibly. Any thoughts?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

wings&wheels
Dealer and Mechanic Anecdotes
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
97prizm
M
High Mileage accomplishment cheat?
2 3 4
Replies
66
Views
3K
Astro14
U
I don't think I'll find or buy a used car
2 3
Replies
53
Views
2K
addyguy
W
To trade in or not to trade in
2 3
Replies
40
Views
2K
Kira
W
Modern Turbo Engine Reliability and Durability
3 4 5
Replies
88
Views
6K
wtd
Back
Top