Charging Efficiency

[y_p_w]

Loose connections would be the other issue. The recommended Hubbell receptacle uses a hex head for the lugs, which precludes using any old crappy screwdriver laying around to make the connections.

I have an ECX bit for my screwdriver. This allows me to put enough torque on a regular receptacle to strip out the screw threads. You aren't doing that with a regular Phillips. (You might strip out the screw head, though).

Loose connections would result in heating. Charge the vehicle for 10 minutes, disconnect, check the plug blades to see if they're excessively hot.

I did a bit more research about this and why the common Leviton 14-50R gets so many warnings. The wires go straight in the back and are connected by Phillips/flat head screws that are supposed to be torqued to 25 in-lbs. Hubbell and Bryant have the wire going down the bottom but with the hex head pressing against a wedge and torqued to 75 in-lbs.

I had a look at the Leviton, and it gets some criticism because the internal contacts are fairly shallow, maybe half the depth of the plug blades. Bryant/Hubbell supposedly have deeper contacts, but also can be a pain to insert and remove because it requires more force. However, Leviton has a supposed “EV quality” 14-50R now with hex heads, bigger contacts, different materials, and approval for frequent insertions.

50 Amp EV Charging Receptacle/Outlet, Heavy Duty, 1450R

Designed specifically for plug-in EV charging applications, Designed to sustain the necessary extended charge time and high frequency of insertions EV chargers require. Perfect option for homeowners who prefer a plug-in EV charging units as opposed to a hardwire application Built of durable...

store.leviton.com

I also decided to check on my parents garage setup with the basic Leviton 14-50R. They’re not concerned that this is a fire hazard, but I wanted to double check. I turned the breakers off and had a look myself. I guess the concern is that the connection can be poor over time if stranded wire splays out past the screws. I also tried to retorque the screws, where some of them could be tightened a bit more. So hopefully this helps, since I heard loose contacts have been blamed for overheating due to increased resistance. This is semi-permanent so perhaps the worries about plugging and unplugging aren’t an issue.

I’m thinking of just changing this out myself even if my parents think it’s OK. I don't think a Hubbell or Bryant would be a direct replacement though as I saw some photos showing that the mounting holes are wider and probably also the faceplate screw holes.

 

[SHOZ]

Twist the wire counter clockwise and it doesn't splay out when tightened under a screw.

 

[y_p_w]

Twist the wire counter clockwise and it doesn't splay out when tightened under a screw.

I don’t think it’s a big concern in this case. It’s 6 gauge stranded, and each strand is actually pretty thick. It’s maybe 6 strand. It fills in the hole pretty well.

I don’t think it would be an easy thing to just drop in a Bryant or Hubbell receptacle since they’re a bit bigger and would need a bigger box.

 

[JeffKeryk]

@y_p_w have the best recepticle you can installed. Cheap insurance.

 

[y_p_w]

@y_p_w have the best recepticle you can installed. Cheap insurance.

If I had researched this earlier, then perhaps I would have recommended they get something more expensive since EV use is clearly different than dryers or stoves. EVerything else (breaker and cable) should be fine.

However, my parents are extremely frugal about this or that. They'd look at the $10 spent on a Leviton that's still UL listed and wonder why would they need to spend $50-100 on a Hubbell or Bryant receptacle.

I feel confident now in just replacing the receptacle. That's easy and hard mess up as long as I take my time and maybe retorque after a few minutes. With an Allen key that would be even easier. But I'd hope for a direct drop in since I'm less confident in replacing the gang box, especially since it's buried in the wall. If it were in an external box, then yeah I'd feel OK with a bigger box. I saw a YouTube video of someone doing that. But cutting through the drywall and installing a new gang box is something I'm a bit less confident doing.

That being said, I tried to do a few things that will hopefully reduce the chances of something bad happening with the Leviton receptacle while it's still there. Of course tightening the screws, where I've heard a loose connection can possibly increase resistance. My installed a hangar for the Tesla Mobile Connector, but it was like a 1/4" too low and it was still hanging from the cord. So I relocated it higher and the body of the Mobile Connector is now resting in the hangar.