He said the aluminum square drive tool broke, not the square drive on the filter cap ... at least that's how I read it.
Changing filter on a Toyota
- Thread starter dwasifar
- Start date
That's how I read it too, but the square drive hole on the tool is in the middle of the hex drive part, at least on the one I got.
So why should turning it using the square drive break it, but turning it using the hex drive be okay?
I think it's a matter of force being concentrated in a small area vs. spread over a larger one--when the cap is really tight.
Here's a picture of the carnage:
Here's a picture of the carnage:
Like already mentioned ... more stress involved in the square drive hole than on the larger hex drive flats. The force on the square drive is trying to blow out the sides, where the stress on the hex drive is trying to compress the flats. If you used a 6-point socket on the hex drive it's not going to slip or damage the hex on the filter cap.
Good pic. Thanks!I think the Toyota filters have a diagram inside the box if you're using them. The photo below shows a used one. The O-ring is flattened and oily, but it's in the correct groove. It goes just below the threads, NOT all of the way against the end flange.
Good call on ordering the cap tool with notches.
Another tip is to remove the cap using a big socket on the tool's hex. I broke at least one, and maybe two, trying to loosen the cap with a ratchet in the square-drive hole. (The aluminum tool broke, not the plastic cap.) I did install using the square-drive and a standard-length ratchet.
I was worried enough about the plastic to order a spare. Those caps can take a lot of abuse, though.
I see. For some reason I didn't imagine that kind of break. I was thinking more like the slots would break or something. Thanks for posting a pic.
The filter housing takes a 28 flute 64mm socket. They are common. I put a 15/16 “ on the hex of the socket and do not use the square. Why break it?
Good advice given on the careful placement of the large O-ring. That is the sealing surface.
The little o-ring can be changed easily if necessary. I put the filter in a vise with paint stirs protecting the threads. Square drive should easily open since the torque is only eleven pounds. Some oil comes out with the O-ring. Wipe clean, install the new one lubed, and replace the cover. Pop in the filter element, fill with some fresh clean oil and follow the directions from the gentleman that wrote to seat the housing and then just snug. Good advice.
Good advice given on the careful placement of the large O-ring. That is the sealing surface.
The little o-ring can be changed easily if necessary. I put the filter in a vise with paint stirs protecting the threads. Square drive should easily open since the torque is only eleven pounds. Some oil comes out with the O-ring. Wipe clean, install the new one lubed, and replace the cover. Pop in the filter element, fill with some fresh clean oil and follow the directions from the gentleman that wrote to seat the housing and then just snug. Good advice.
Attached is the part number for the oil filter housing from Lexus is identical to what's on the RAV4 you can replace the plastic type version with this cast aluminum housing bolts right on it's a Lexus part number as a side note I purchase the Moto X forged oil filter cap tool as in the picture a couple of post before this one the black much stronger than the stamps version still works fine keep the plastic housing for a spare if you so desire attached picture. I'll add the part number for the forged wrench tomorrow. It's late and I'm going to bed.
I know this set of works because I changed it over my daughter's 2016 Rav 4 since the car was new haven't had any problems
TOMB
I know this set of works because I changed it over my daughter's 2016 Rav 4 since the car was new haven't had any problems
TOMB
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That’s the one I sheared off a RAV4’s filter cap on. I bought the updated version.
I've cut many Toyota/Denso spin-on oil filters and the filter element and center tube look exactly like you see in the cartridge type unit. Very well made. Only thing I haven't heard is criticism about the glued ends on the element. Agree with you big B, they are well built. I don't say much about Denso filters anymore but I still feel the same way.
Well that's a quality tool lol
Okay, so, back for more advice.
I went down to her house, put the car up on ramps, the whole deal, and couldn't get the housing off.
Maybe partly my fault for assuming a regular ratchet handle would be enough leverage and not bringing a breaker bar. It's an aluminum housing, not the plastic kind you guys are talking about, and it doesn't look like this housing has been off at any recent date. I was afraid to push it too hard for fear of breaking something I didn't have the tools with me to fix, so I didn't try the obvious step of putting a pipe over the ratchet handle for leverage.
So here's my question: What's the best way to break it loose safely? Impact? Longer breaker bar? Penetrating oil? Heat it up with a torch? Some combination of those? I was thinking of trying my DeWalt impact driver with a square drive adapter. But I don't know what that'll do; there's a lot of slop from socket to cap wrench and cap wrench to housing.
I went down to her house, put the car up on ramps, the whole deal, and couldn't get the housing off.
Maybe partly my fault for assuming a regular ratchet handle would be enough leverage and not bringing a breaker bar. It's an aluminum housing, not the plastic kind you guys are talking about, and it doesn't look like this housing has been off at any recent date. I was afraid to push it too hard for fear of breaking something I didn't have the tools with me to fix, so I didn't try the obvious step of putting a pipe over the ratchet handle for leverage.So here's my question: What's the best way to break it loose safely? Impact? Longer breaker bar? Penetrating oil? Heat it up with a torch? Some combination of those? I was thinking of trying my DeWalt impact driver with a square drive adapter. But I don't know what that'll do; there's a lot of slop from socket to cap wrench and cap wrench to housing.
Not much you can do about the slop between the cap wrench to the housing except maybe a different cap tool would fit better.
But try to find a 6-point socket that will fit tighter on the hex on the cap - don't use a 12-point socket. I would not use the square drive. Best thing to do is use a tight fitting 6-point socket and use a bigger/longer ratchet to break the housing cap loose.
A coupe comments -
1. Yes, opening the center plug gets most of the oil out of the filter housing using the plastic thingy but not all of it and it's a lot messier for me to skip this step because I'm working through a narrow opening in a skid plate on my Tundra. On my RX 350, it makes less of a difference since it's wide open and I can quickly unscrew it and just dump it to the side.
2. Metal housings are superior to the plastic housings - they can and do crack. I learned that lesson the hard way.
3. The center plug needs very little torque when replacing it - it is actually very easy to snap off if you over-torque it.
4. I can hand tighten the oil housing down to its hard stop and I do not torque it anymore - just using my hand.
5. It's an absolutely stupid and ridiculous filter system and if I were a somebody at Toyota I'd fire anyone who was even remotely involved in the decision to use these types of filters.
6. Every time a dealership has changed the oil filter the next time I go to take it off it's a NIGHTMARE. They universally overtighten it and/or do not lube the O-ring well enough. When I was the previous person just hand tightened it to its hard stop, there are no leaks and it takes very little effort to spin off the housing using a MotivX tool.
1. Yes, opening the center plug gets most of the oil out of the filter housing using the plastic thingy but not all of it and it's a lot messier for me to skip this step because I'm working through a narrow opening in a skid plate on my Tundra. On my RX 350, it makes less of a difference since it's wide open and I can quickly unscrew it and just dump it to the side.
2. Metal housings are superior to the plastic housings - they can and do crack. I learned that lesson the hard way.
3. The center plug needs very little torque when replacing it - it is actually very easy to snap off if you over-torque it.
4. I can hand tighten the oil housing down to its hard stop and I do not torque it anymore - just using my hand.
5. It's an absolutely stupid and ridiculous filter system and if I were a somebody at Toyota I'd fire anyone who was even remotely involved in the decision to use these types of filters.
6. Every time a dealership has changed the oil filter the next time I go to take it off it's a NIGHTMARE. They universally overtighten it and/or do not lube the O-ring well enough. When I was the previous person just hand tightened it to its hard stop, there are no leaks and it takes very little effort to spin off the housing using a MotivX tool.
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Not using a 12-point. 1" 6-pt is too small, 1-1/16" is sloppy. None of my metric sockets fit either.
I imagine I could file down that hex a bit to get the 1" on.
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The beauty of 6-point sockets is that even with some (but not crazy excessive) slop they won't slip past the edges of the nut hex. Maybe it's a 26 mm hex?
You could tightly wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the hex nut to make the 1-1/16" fit tighter. If you have more than one 1" or 1-1/16" socket around, try them too ... I've seen variances between tools. Filing down the hex nut on the tool would work too.
There is a picture that shows you the correct position. The filter tool is a good idea. I use a new crush washer on the drain plug. The once metal housing has been updated to plastic, however I think $40 will buy the metal cartridge assembly.
