Changing BMW AT Fluid at 155,000Miles For 1st Time

[Pontual]

Glad I changed on mine. The fluid had 14 years and came out with little witheish pellets and some dirt like dust sand that sinking to the bottom of the container after a few days of setting (I live near of a beach). That accumulated dirt wouldnt help with anything. Did it came via the transmission breathing system? Maybe!

 

[Kiwi_ME]

We changed the oil on our 2004 e46 that I think has the same 5-speed trans, after 75k miles of city-only driving. Shifting was getting a bit sluggish but a full flush with the proper synthetic oil cleared it right up.

 

[GaleHawkins]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
If your transmission is going to die from changing the fluid, refraining from changing it is not going to allow it to live for another 40k miles.

The specious reasoning that is constantly exercised when a transmission dies after a fluid change is: "Well, if I wouldn't have messed with it, it would have lasted forever!".

This is of course, not true.

With regards to changing the fluid itself, it doesn' matter whether you do it "fast" or "slow". Your transmission is not a girl on prom night. If it's going to begin dumping stuck contaminants, it's going to happen. Keeping old fluid up in there is going to do absolutely nothing to slow or stop that process.

I won't even get into the inaccuracy of the theory that old fluid has more traction. Any transmission relying on the "friction" of dirty fluid is dead and will cease to function in short order.

Service centers run away from neglected transmissions, because doing any service on that contains very little profit, and a ton of liability.



I agree. When we had some old BMW's I had the shop to do the pan drop and refill but that was before I learned how to do the bucket flushes using the lines to/from transmission oil cooler.

New ATF to maker's specs or better is always a good thing based on our experience.

 

[KevinV]

Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Maybe do 3 drain/refills.

How would I do this ? A couple of quarts at a time or several quarts each time ? How long an interval should there be between them ?

 

[Tanama]

Do it at your convenience. If the fluid is not burnt, chances are the new ATF will not harm the transmission. The reason, burnt fluid means deteriorated seals. An new fluid will lead up to pressure losses. However, the new ATF will dislodge dirt inside the transmission. As such, further ATF changes should be performed.

Initially to drop the pan, change the filter, clean magnets and the pan would be a good start. Then, after a week or so, another fluid change just by draining the pan. Afterwards, repeat with the next oil change.

 

[KevinV]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: KevinV
Originally Posted By: DrRoughneck
Dealerships have to warranty repairs 1 year I believe and they're afraid of this liability on a 150K+ miles BMW transmisison. They say it's better not to change it for them, not for you.


Use Mobil 1 ATF is supported and add one of these transmission magnets to catch any goo left: http://www.jegs.com/i/FilterMAG/384/TM180/10002/-1?parentProductId=813786

Then 500-1000 miels later do it again and clean the magnet.


Is the idea that the magnet will collect the debris that could clog the transmission. A response above said that by putting in new ATF fluid with good cleaning properties there would be material dislodged that could clog the transmission.


Install an external filter to catch anything that might come loose. Use a Magnefine inline filter.

Where do you put the external filter on this car (2001 BMW 325i) ?

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted By: umungus1122
Originally Posted By: djb
Keep in mind that BMW e39 (as well as most recent BMWs) nominally have a "lifetime fill" fluid in the transmissions and differentials.

Many people don't believe in "lifetime fill", but the e39 drivetrains have a good record for longevity... they'll almost certainly be killed by a sudden cooling system failure before they wear out.

If you are perceiving a shift problem, try changing the VANOS seals. The original ones do start leaking and mimic a stutter-shift.

Sure, but what is BMW's (or other manufacturers')definition of LIFETIME? 100k? Out of warranty? Add a drain plug to those pans and change at reasonable intervals.


BMW's definition of lifetime is that some other failure will kill the transmission before the old fluid will.....common sense could have told you that. NO manufacturer is specifying lifetime fluid until it is proven the fluid is not an issue....jeez.

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
Originally Posted By: Alfred_B
I wouldn't do it.


+1

at that mileage your running on borrowed time. That transmission is going to fail either way. Might as well save your $$ and put that money towards a new car/trans


why would you assume such....

 

[Leo99]

I'd leave it be if it's lifetime fluid.

 

[philipp10]

Why don't you take a small sample and see what it looks like. Maybe its really clean.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Drain and fill a few times over a few months and report back results.

Will be good to drop and clean and view the VB but that can wait, the immediate need is fresh fluid.

 

[Egg_Head]

I would change it. If it is the "green tag" transmission use Pentosin ATF 1 fluid. Enjoy your car.

 

[KevinV]

Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Drain and fill a few times over a few months and report back results.

Will be good to drop and clean and view the VB but that can wait, the immediate need is fresh fluid.


Question - What is a VB ? Also what is the difference between a drain and fill versus a drop and clean ? Thanks.

 

[Lolvoguy]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Lolvoguy
at that mileage your running on borrowed time. That transmission is going to fail either way. Might as well save your $$ and put that money towards a new car/trans


So are you basing this on your knowledge of BMW automatic transmissions in general or this specific one? If 153,000 miles is "borrowed time" then I must owe a entire bank.

Even if your unsupported statement is true, fresh fluid is going to help, not hurt.


how often have you changed the fluid in the 200+ miles you've had that car?

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: KevinV
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Drain and fill a few times over a few months and report back results.

Will be good to drop and clean and view the VB but that can wait, the immediate need is fresh fluid.


Question - What is a VB ? Also what is the difference between a drain and fill versus a drop and clean ? Thanks.


VB = Valve body. This is the mechanical control section of the AT, where electrical solenoids control fluid flow to various lines that engage/disengage the gear plates. Usually nothing to do here unless one solenoid is diagnosed bad and you need to replace it.

Drain/fill means that, drop/fill means that - in dropping, you also get to clean out the pan. Which after 100k+ miles, will have a coating of friction material and metal shavings on magnets in the pan bottom. Search user Kschan's post, he recently posted a pic of a 150k-ish Toyota (I believe) and the typical filth you will find inside.