Changing a GM fuel pump

[pbm]

I went to change the fuel pump in my 02' Buick Century because the level sensor went bad. (The price difference between a new level sensor and a new fuel pump which includes a new level sensor made it a no-brainer on a 110K vehicle).
The retainer ring (aka cam) which secures the fuel pump to the gas tank was very rusty and was further beat up trying to get it thru the small access hole in the trunk. I drove over to a GM (Chevy/Buick) dealer to get a new cam ring and I was told it only comes with a............new gas tank!!!!
That's unbelievable.
Tommorrow I'll drop the gas tank so that I can reuse the old ring which I cleaned up with a wire brush.

 

[Stu_Rock]

The following may not be correct, but check GM part number 10402657 or AC-Delco part number TR28. The price should be $48.40 ($27.79 at RockAuto), so it may still be worth cleaning up the one you have. It's part #7 in the following diagram:

 

[bdcardinal]

not to go on a tangent, but the more i have to deal with GM parts, the more i appreciate Ford's part number system for its simplicity.

 

[PF52]

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
not to go on a tangent, but the more i have to deal with GM parts, the more i appreciate Ford's part number system for its simplicity.


Depends on what you're used to I suppose. I know many who prefer GM's system because Ford's is too darn complicated.

 

[tomcat27]

I really dislike replacing in-tank fuel pumps!
I also cant understand how you can run an electric motor inside a gas tank.

 

[moklock]

It should be P/N 10402657. Described as a "cover, fuel pump"

IMO, I found GM parts easier to look up once used to it. If you know your catalog group #'s well you can find anything quite fast and most GM stores have the parts organized mostly by cat. group as much as space will allow so nearly all parts of the same kind are automatically close together.

That helps to make match-it-up type searches for old/oddball stuff easier.

Saturn was easiest when only the S-Series was there, the first four numbers of the GM-style part numbers were always 2100,2101,2102 so you could pretty much ignore that part of the number.

Once the other models came around is was much more difficult as they did not use catalog numbers till recent years and the part numbers were all over the place.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
not to go on a tangent, but the more i have to deal with GM parts, the more i appreciate Ford's part number system for its simplicity.


Depends on what you're used to I suppose. I know many who prefer GM's system because Ford's is too darn complicated.


Seriously, most people who say that have no experience with Ford's parts numbering system.
If you have done any work with Ford part numbers, you know exactly what the part is, the year it first came out and how many revisions that Ford has done to it. Try that with a GM or Dodge part number.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
not to go on a tangent, but the more i have to deal with GM parts, the more i appreciate Ford's part number system for its simplicity.


Depends on what you're used to I suppose. I know many who prefer GM's system because Ford's is too darn complicated.


Seriously, most people who say that have no experience with Ford's parts numbering system.
If you have done any work with Ford part numbers, you know exactly what the part is, the year it first came out and how many revisions that Ford has done to it. Try that with a GM or Dodge part number.


someone gets it. even Mazda's numbering system somewhat makes sense.

 

[sciphi]

Hmm, my dealer was happy as a clam to sell me all the individual parts I wanted when I did the fuel pump in my Buick.

 

[Stu_Rock]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Seriously, most people who say that have no experience with Ford's parts numbering system.
If you have done any work with Ford part numbers, you know exactly what the part is, the year it first came out and how many revisions that Ford has done to it. Try that with a GM or Dodge part number.


So how does it work? I've never owned a Ford, so I've never had to learn.

It also looks like there's a method to the madness of Honda part numbering. There is a Honda in the household fleet; I'd love to have that numbering scheme explained to me.

I agree that the GM system is a little lame, but at least they back it up with some good computer databases. I've never had too much difficulty finding part numbers. It sometimes does get dicey for interior body parts that come in several colors. I got burned by that problem once.

 

[bdcardinal]

ford part numbers have 3 sections, the prefix, base and suffix.

the prefix tells you the model the part was first installed on, and what branch from ford its from. a prefix of F1AZ implies a 1991 full size ford sedan with a part from the ford service division. the first digit being the decade, f=90's, e=80's. the second digit is the year so F1= 1991. the third digit implies the vehicle, A= full size sedan for example. and the fourth digit is the division, Z= Ford, Y= Lincoln/Mercury.

the base number tells you what kind of part it is. 1102 is a hub and rotor assembly, 1125 is a slide on rotor. 19e616 is a blend door actuator, 6731 is an oil filter, 9601 is an air filter. they are all organized into sections depending on what part of the car they are off of.

the suffix tells you the supercesion of the part, A being the original, AA being the next so on and so on.

there is a newer prefix system from 2000 and newer that uses the VIN codes instead of date codes.

 

[pbm]

I got the new FP in reusing the old cam by lowering the gas tank. The job was a real PITA and it had me wishing GM used better quality OE parts.

 

[swalve]

That's odd, I did the FP in my Grand Prix and was thrilled at how easy it was. The hardest part was holding the fuel pump down against the springs to get the retainer back in.

Also, I found the pump on Amazon.com. (Not through a partner, right through them.) Exact factory Delphi part, new, with a harness repair kit, for $200.

The only downside was that the first one didn't work. Shoulda tested it before I pulled the old one out...