Fuel sending unit replacement- 202 F350 V10- random notes

[GON]

After waiting over four years, finally replaced the OEM fuel sending unit on a 2002 F350 gasser. Reason for replacement was gas gauge was reading empty, the failure occurred while filling up at a gas station in Georgia spring of 2021. The reason it took four years to replace- the job is a pain in the dupa because of bed bolts, something I will start another thread on.

A few notes:

• failure was a bad crimp on a connector, leaving a wire without a place to send its data
  • I suspect a lower gauge wire and this repair would not have been need. Tiny wires in a vehicle's fuel tank always moving puts stress on the wire.
  • Almost hit mission failure when the fuel pump seal (gasket) expanded and could not be reused
    • nobody from for dealer, AZ, AAP, Orielly or Napa had this gasket in stock
    • I put the gasket in the freezer hoping to shrink it, then recalled I thought I might have one, which I did (and used)
    • to fuel pump is mounted with two clips to the bottom of the fuel tank
      • easier/ less messy to release the fuel pump clips with less fuel in the tank
    • The big plastic spin on ring the holds the fuel pump mount to the top of the tank
      • A specialty tool is required to loosen the ring
      • Strongly recommend against using a screwdriver and hammer to loosen ring
        • ring is another hard to find item and will deadline the vehicle if damaged

 

[D60]

When I pulled the bed on my '11 I used a cheap import set of bed bolts. They're female hex head which is actually fine but absolutely, positively do not use their "thread locking" interference system. It's WAY too tight for realistic assembly.

Run a tap thru every clip nut to delete the mechanical locking and it goes together with ease. Use thread locker if you're concerned with bed bolts jumping out of the bed. I mean ya know, we see so many bed bolts just littering the roadways -- truly an epidemic

Also, OEM is almost surely TP but many people just use plain ol' T and run into problems

 

[GON]

When I pulled the bed on my '11 I used a cheap import set of bed bolts. They're female hex head which is actually fine but absolutely, positively do not use their "thread locking" interference system. It's WAY too tight for realistic assembly.

Run a tap thru every clip nut to delete the mechanical locking and it goes together with ease. Use thread locker if you're concerned with bed bolts jumping out of the bed. I mean ya know, we see so many bed bolts just littering the roadways -- truly an epidemic

Also, OEM is almost surely TP but many people just use plain ol' T and run into problems

The bed bolts are why this job took four years. I spent week/ months trying to loosen the bed bolts with penetrating oil. Later I tried wax on the bolt to nut, with no success. I put in some really heavy tools to try and break the bolts with no luck. Finally resorted to a grinder and that was the key, I should have used a grinder.

I suspect the bolt to the female hex head welded themselves together. Possibly I encouraged this with penetrating oil, and letting the penetrating oil sit for months/ years. All I know is I had huge torque and could not break the connection.

On a side note I used the Dorman bed bolt replacement set. Two of the hex heads were defective. Very cheap set and I would not ever buy that set again. I lathered the bolts in anti-seize. Not worrying about the bed breaking free. But if it did, the BW goosneck hitch provided a temporary safety from the safety chain u bolts.

 

[D60]

The bed bolts are why this job took four years. I spent week/ months trying to loosen the bed bolts with penetrating oil. Later I tried wax on the bolt to nut, with no success. I put in some really heavy tools to try and break the bolts with no luck. Finally resorted to a grinder and that was the key, I should have used a grinder.

I suspect the bolt to the female hex head welded themselves together. Possibly I encouraged this with penetrating oil, and letting the penetrating oil sit for months/ years. All I know is I had huge torque and could not break the connection.

On a side note I used the Dorman bed bolt replacement set. Two of the hex heads were defective. Very cheap set and I would not ever buy that set again. I lathered the bolts in anti-seize. Not worrying about the bed breaking free. But if it did, the BW goosneck hitch provided a temporary safety from the safety chain u bolts.

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Yeah, I ground several heads off. Ultimately much faster. As Eric O says, "OK, I'm done asking."

My import set was from Amazon I think. In the spirit of weird Chinese stuff, it came with a set of cloth knit "work" gloves. But all the hex heads were fine. I guess we shouldn't be surprised that rando Chinese is better than Dorman Chinese

 

[Nukeman7]

Was the fuel sending unit's broken wire previously repaired? I've never seen a crimp connector used on an OEM fuel pump assembly from the factory. As you deduced, using solder and heat shrink tubing is the only correct repair for this situation.

FYI, I have always been able to remove and install those plastic locking rings on fuel pumps by tapping them (counterclockwise/clockwise) with a wooden paint stirring stick using a mallet. Never cracked one by tapping them across the raised ribs.