Changed Blade and Oil - Snapper Riding Mower

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Just put a new GATOR Mulching Blade and changed the oil (1 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30) on my Snapper 11 HP 28 inch Rear Engine Riding Lawn Mower.

My engine manual recommends synthetic oil. Says if you use Conventional Oil, you may burn/use more oil.
 
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My Craftman mower tore up my yard last time I cut so I ordered some new blades (and added air to my tires).
My grasscatcher seems to drop more grass than it catches now..so I'll look at that next...any ideas?
 
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
Just put a new GATOR Mulching Blade and changed the oil (1 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30) on my Snapper 11 HP 28 inch Rear Engine Riding Lawn Mower.

My engine manual recommends synthetic oil. Says if you use Conventional Oil, you may burn/use more oil.



I never tried Gator blades...I thought about buying some for my grasshopper, but never did.

Burning/using oil isn't a real big deal as long as you make sure you keep the oil level in the safe range. I'm not really sure these new mowers actually "burn" or "use" oil (why would it burn/use a conventional and not a synthetic?), or if they just run it so hot it boils the lighter portions off the conventional and loses volume that way?
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
My Craftman mower tore up my yard last time I cut so I ordered some new blades (and added air to my tires).
My grasscatcher seems to drop more grass than it catches now..so I'll look at that next...any ideas?


Blade on upside down?
 
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
Just put a new GATOR Mulching Blade and changed the oil (1 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30) on my Snapper 11 HP 28 inch Rear Engine Riding Lawn Mower.

My engine manual recommends synthetic oil. Says if you use Conventional Oil, you may burn/use more oil.



I never tried Gator blades...I thought about buying some for my grasshopper, but never did.

Burning/using oil isn't a real big deal as long as you make sure you keep the oil level in the safe range. I'm not really sure these new mowers actually "burn" or "use" oil (why would it burn/use a conventional and not a synthetic?), or if they just run it so hot it boils the lighter portions off the conventional and loses volume that way?


Synthetic oil has a much higher "burn off" point, it is stable at higher temperatures than Conventional oil.
 
B@S says there air cooled engines can burn up to an ounce and a half during one hour at full load.
That's why the manual states to check, and top off before each use.
 
I liked my my 1982 Snapper Ride On so much, I bought another one last Fall--there is nothing better for leaf pick ups--I put over 40 hours on it last October and November.
These things do run HOT-last Fall I measured 270 degree oil temp-keep that in mind when you calculate OCI
Current fill is Quaker State Conventional straight 30 (cause I got it for 1.00 after rebate) Usual fill is Pennzoil conventional 30 weight.
 
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner


Synthetic oil has a much higher "burn off" point, it is stable at higher temperatures than Conventional oil.




We are getting our jargon mixed...

If an engine is burning oil, it is burning it as part of the combustion process. That would mean a sloppy ring or valve seal, and would make for fouled plugs. Doubtful on a new engine...

Oil can boil off, and that is what I feel is happening because of how hot these engines run now...the vapor escapes the crankcase through the breather (still gets burnt). I would bet if we did a used oil analysis, the oil would be a lot thicker than when it started (unless its got fuel dilution). I saw this in my own 25HP Kohler I just bought...
 
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