Why don't you like the Maxlife?
change to sythentic?
- Thread starter jayno20
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Why don't you like the Maxlife?
Newbie here. I also have a Chrysler Sebring 06' with the 2.7l DOHC V-6, otherwise known as the sludge-omatic. I found this out the day after signing the papers and driving off the lot. The car does not have any mods but however will be racking up 70 miles a day in the very hot and humid Georgia summers. DC specifies 5w-20. I am currently using M1 with 1/3 quart of Lucas Synthetic Stabalizer to add a touch of beef to the 20 weight. I am concerned how the 20 will hold up during 98 degree days while stuck in traffic. Will a Group III work, or do I need to go to "Real" Synthetic? Which oil will be less likely to sludge? I would appreciate any advice that holds to the thread topic.
anyone?
how does maxlife synthetic rank? is it just as good as the "best" synthetic or what? im looking to get the best i can... i am fond of valvoline products tho so if the maxlife syn is good then thats what i'll be going with, but at the same time if its not as good as something else then maybe i'll think twice...
The 5w-20 will be fine as well as any Group III syn. Since you have a sludge beast, I'd probably stick to changing it out every 3k or 4k miles. Lucas isn't generally held in high regard around here. You may want to think about using AutoRx or LC20 in maintenance doses to help keep the sludgies away.
You also might want to consider MC 5w-20 if you're going to change every 3k or 4k. Only 10 bucks and some change for a 5qt jug at WalMart.
Let us know what you decide.
is there "better" than a group III?
Thanks for the advise guys. After reading posts for the past couple of weeks, I have determined two things: Lucas is not all that it's cracked up to be and my wife is going to crack my head if I come home from work one more night and go straight to the computer. She doesn't like being ignored! I will give the ARX a try, read good stuff about it. The reason I question the shear rate of 5w-20 is due to a HTTS rating of 2.6. Read somewhere that 2.9 was needed to protect an engine at high temps. The fan on this modern marvel of engineering doesn't kick on until 235F.
Thanks again for the help.
Thanks again for the help.
There are Group V oils, these are the true synthetics (POA). I think the only manufactures of these are Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100, possibly Schaeffer's. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Most "synthetic" oils are Group III, or a mix of GIII and GII. Then some, I beleive are a mix of GIII and a small amount of POA's. Some regular non-synthetic oils are mix of GIII and GI or just straight GII. How to figure out exactly which oil is in which group on the rack at your local Automart is beyond me. I have yet to find a simple list of brand names that indicate the base oil mixtures. From what I've gathered is in extreme conditions, the POA's are the best. For a daily driver and great protection the Maxlife, MC or Mobile1 do the job. There are so many opinions that you can read for days and still not decide "what is the best".
If you don't look at the price, Synlube is the best. This is probably the only one that is 100% synthetic. But, you have to pay for it. If you considder the total life cost of your oil, and don't change it yourself, it is cheaper than dino(even if it cost 32USD). If you count in a saving of 3-5% of petrol, it should be a no-brainer. As a bonus, you will experience a smoother engine and better torque/power. If you install it in a new car, you will have a warranty against oil-related failures for 300000 miles! Without changing oil! However, you will have to change the oilfilter every 50000 miles. Haven't you heard about it? NASA have been using it since 1969.
I have to admit that I have never heard of the Synlube. Went to it's web site and checked it out. So to answer Jayno's question of who is the best of the best.... This may very well be it. Seems to be extremely impresive. Don't know if I could handle psychologically changing my oil every 150,000 miles. Just doesn't compute.
I will most likely spend about $160.00/year on oil changes, so this stuff would actually save me money.
Johnny-B, would you feel comfortable running this stuff for 150K or more?
I will most likely spend about $160.00/year on oil changes, so this stuff would actually save me money.
Johnny-B, would you feel comfortable running this stuff for 150K or more?
Patman
Staff member
And I've heard they haven't changed their formula for about 22 years. No thanks. I don't need $32 snake oil that is packaged in old Mobil 1 bottles.
ok i'll probably go with maxlife syn then... is it ok to use SLOB with the syn version of maxlife?
Quote:
There are Group V oils, these are the true synthetics (POA). I think the only manufactures of these are Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100, possibly Schaeffer's. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Most "synthetic" oils are Group III, or a mix of GIII and GII. Then some, I beleive are a mix of GIII and a small amount of POA's. Some regular non-synthetic oils are mix of GIII and GI or just straight GII. How to figure out exactly which oil is in which group on the rack at your local Automart is beyond me. I have yet to find a simple list of brand names that indicate the base oil mixtures. From what I've gathered is in extreme conditions, the POA's are the best. For a daily driver and great protection the Maxlife, MC or Mobile1 do the job. There are so many opinions that you can read for days and still not decide "what is the best".
the only full synthetic on the market is nippon eneos. the rest are merly imposters who put additives in with their oil to brand it "synthetic." go ahead and call each respective synthetic oil retailer and they will tell you they use less than 2% synthetic stock in their supposed "synthetic" oil. in fact, next time you buy that "synthetic" oil smell it. if it smells like sae 10w30 guess what, its not synthetic, so its not a true, full synthetic.
best of luck with your high mileage domestic engines.
I would use a blended oil and some auto rx as a maintence dose. Since chaning my oil every six months im starting to rethink my options.
if i get maxlife syn what weight should i get? i usually use 10w30, is there any reason to change that since its synthetic?
I'm going to chime in on this 'sub-topic' and if anyone wishes to share information or put up info to correct me, please do....
But here is my 2-cents on the tapping issue.
Tapping is NOT GOOD, rather it goes away or not.
In my opinion, there are only a few possible causes for such.
ALL OF WHICH MEAN LACK OF OIL BEING WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE.
1) Oil with properties that basically let all the oil drain back over night.
2) Oil that is too thick to get where it needs to be fast enough.
3) A pump that can't push the oil fast enough.
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For what it is worth, I've had a few vehicles that did this.
For the first one I went to thinner oil and it got worse.
I increased viscosity until it went away.
This car went near 300,000 before I sold it.
Another was doing it and I didn't know it for a long time.
My wife's car.
During all this I couldn't get my normal oil one time.
Switched it to a thinner Castrol GTX.
400 miles later I was driving it one day, took a sharp left turn and the oil light came on. Stopped in a parking lot to check the oil and it was down 3 quarts. I called a friend to take me for make-up oil.
I felt sure something had knocked a hole in the oil filter so I got one of those too. I couldn't tell where the oil had went... just seemed it had disappeared.
I swapped cars with my wife so I could monitor it and found it to tap at startup. It was then I found out my wife thought this was normal....
Damage done!....70-some thousand miles.
It lasted a while, leaked no oil, but seemed to use plenty around town for a long time without showing any signs of burning. Not on the plugs or in the exhaust. But it would go through it around town... and use almost nothing on long interstate runs.
Eventually it started smoking at startup and at stoplights.
Valve guides I figured....
Needed a rebuild at 80-some thousand miles... sick.
I sold it.
It was a Dodge too by the way.....
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