Change the engine air filter and then leave it alone?

[SC Maintenance]

Well, I change my Xterra filter every 15 to 20K, and check it just about every oil change. I have had one get wet once - but that time I figured it might be - deep water crossing. Oh, I used to Off-Road the Xterra too.

So 400K+ miles - burns no oil. So I shall continue checking.

 

[shortyb]

Check it or leave it alone. Depends on how curious you are and if the unknown will eat at you if you don't. Either way, the car will most likely live a long life, quite possibly with another owner.

 

[Kira]

Previous posts represent sound practice because the posters are thoughtful and knowledgeable.

However, generally speaking, you don't want to let talentless, careless, possibly irate personnel at quick lube joints "check your air filter" for you as they are known to make mistakes frequently.
These mistakes include failing to seat the filter and lid when they're done or, in the case of air cleaner housings like mine, break hold down hardware.
Using cheaper filter elements with questionable performance and fit is also rife.

 

[TiGeo]

50k miles between cleaning my K&Ns.

 

[factorytuned2012]

It’s good practice to at least check the air filter while an oil change. Check if any mice decided to move in and start on a family

 

[FastLane]

I did have a wix air filter have a torn seal. I found it when I changed my oil in the spring. Not a horrible idea to check on it every so often.

 

[FTTSHO]

I just take my engine air filter out and blow it out with clean compressed air, from clean side to dirty side. Lots of dust comes out, but I make sure the clean side stays clean. Then I use a vacuum to clean the clean side before putting it back in. I never see any dirt or dust in the intake tubing.

 

[Bob5150]

If you spin the engine backwards when the filter box is open, the risk of dirt being ingested is much less, well because.

Some amateurs will attach a leaf blower to exhaust pipe, same outcome.

Just kidding on both ideas.

 

[Dr_Dr3i]

The main reason NOT to check the filter is to prevent deformation and/or damage to the foam seal around the edge every time you take it out of the filter box, and compressing it multiple times when closing it, which can lead to a less than optimal seal.

It's best left undisturbed the entire interval the manual says it's good for, despite the quickie iffy lube guy "showing you how dirty it is" and charging you $50 for a $10 filter since he's "already in there."

 

[Revving2Redline]

If you spin the engine backwards when the filter box is open, the risk of dirt being ingested is much less, well because.

Some amateurs will attach a leaf blower to exhaust pipe, same outcome.

Just kidding on both ideas.

My exhaust muffler is too big for leaf blower https://media.tenor.com/YCfeA3jbCDsAAAAM/trash-can.gif

 

[factorytuned2012]

If a BMW can make it that high my lil Jeep can too

View attachment 279114

With this upgrade yes https://www.ebay.com/itm/3568701006...1291&msclkid=1abc9587c1b31aa388ddfda2c26281b1

 

[Oliveoil2]

It's a Jeep, goes offroad a ton. Last time I found bugs in it

My driving is all urban. I would change it sooner if I was driving on dirt or off road. Having said that most people change their air filters way too soon. Installing a restrictor gage is the surest way to determine when an air filter needs to be changed

 

[PandaBear]

I think checking might be ok to see if some large item got sucked in or a rat build a nest there, but not going to help much vacuum it or something like hitting it with your palm. The assumption is your engine is throttled to work with a reduced intake amount whether it is on the air filter or the throttle. It "may" save you a small amount of fuel if your car is on CVT and a cleaner air filter can run a slightly lower rpm, but that's a small amount to begin with unless it is near clogged up and you are climbing up a hill needing to get to higher rpm for that in a car with CVT.

 

[JeffKeryk]

You're supposed to change it?

 

[f355spider]

But what goes wrong with them? Or you're just doing preventative maintenance?

PM, I prefer reliability, so I replace before failure. For example, I have had some vibration in the front suspension not resolved with wheel balancing. I had an inspection performed by my independent BMW specialist who found my steering center link had about 6 or 7mm of play in the drivers side. Since the entire front suspension was replaced with OEM parts from FCP Euro with a lifetime warranty 70k miles ago, I replaced it all again. Since I am in on the labor and alignment no matter what, and parts are free, I ordered all new front suspension control arms, tension struts, end links, tie rods, etc and replaced it all again. Sent everything back, including a recent used oil filter, cabin filters and engine air filter and now have an $804.90 credit. I will be using that to order some heater hoses, clamps and coolant. I'll use the rest in the next year on more maintenance items, as the need arises.

 

[f355spider]

I was surprised to read in the owner's manual of my BMW M550ix that the two engine air filters are to be replaced every 15,000 miles. I assume the 4.4L twin turbo must breath a lot of air...

 

[Motor oil rookie]

I was surprised to read in the owner's manual of my BMW M550ix that the two engine air filters are to be replaced every 15,000 miles. I assume the 4.4L twin turbo must breath a lot of air...

4.4 L twin turbo, that thing must be producing a ton of power

 

[f355spider]

4.4 L twin turbo, that thing must be producing a ton of power

Did a mild stage one, and its making 570hp at the crank on a Mainline hub dynometer. All wheel drive so it hooks up and accelerates amazingly. I'm not into hard launches, but does well with a rolling start. Others with the same tune are doing 3.4 to 3.5 0-60 with a good launch using Dragy app.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I'd be curious to know the source. And even beyond that, how significant this introduction is.
I have replaced the air filter on my BMW approximately every 15k miles since new, only because the factory filter is very inexpensive, about $10 for the Hengst German filter. I'm currently at 377,200 miles...even IF changing the filter introduced dust or dirt to the intake...I question how significant this is. I change the air filter with a factory Denso on my Tundra every 24k miles since new, and is currently at 383,000 miles. I'm not seeing a problem with my sample of two very high mileage cars.

I assume this would be your 540? What sort of major issues have you had - if any? Or maybe you have posted a thread about it already?

 

[f355spider]

I assume this would be your 540? What sort of major issues have you had - if any? Or maybe you have posted a thread about it already?

Normal preventive maintenance for high mileage daily driver. The only major repair was the timing chain guides failure, which happenned at 263,600 miles, which is probably 80k more than most people get out of them. Replaced guides, three chains, three tensioners, vanos rebuild, did a bunch of "while you are in there" work, and now over 115k miles later, still original engine and transmission...no rebuild yet. Three alternators. Did the starter last year, as it was original and simply made me nervous it could suddenly fail and leave me stranded.

I usually replace all cooling components every 100 to 110k, water pump, fan clutch, radiator, expansion tank, thermostat, all cooling and heater hoses, all drive belts, tensioners and pullies. Replace all suspension control arms, end links, ball joints, etc every 140k to 150k. I learned early on, labor is the killer, so when something goes or needs preventive replacement, just do everything, cause the additional labor is minor compared to paying a technician to go back in the same area to replace something else. So I prefer to do things like complete cooling replacement, or entire rear suspension. Then I'm good for a long while...rather than replacing peice meal as they fail or are needing replacement.

My basic maintenance since new is LL-01 (or LL-04) BMW spec oil, changed at half the factory recommended interval, which means every 7500 miles. Coolant change every four years, brake fluid every two years, transmission fluid and filter, and differential fluid every 30k for the first 150k miles, then started doing them every 50k, as I realized that was probably excessive and it was very expensive at the dealer.

My Indy bmw specialist will give the car an inspection every 12 to 18 months and give me advice on what to prioritize for future preventive or urgent maintenance. My Indy is okay if I use FCP Euro for most parts for the past 9 or 10 years, and only in the past three years have I taken advantage of the lifetime warranty...its saved me $1500 so far. I try not to take advantage of my Indy, so I buy about 1/3 of my parts from him so he can still make some money off parts on occasion.

I think I may start buying Odyssey batteries from FCP Euro for the lifetime warranty. They only carry H5, H6, H7 and H8 but that works for some of my needs.