Change Oil or Not? Sparkly!

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OriginHacker21

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I have a paper air filter in there now + a Wix oil filter. I've always noticed that the paper air filters always have stuff in them after 3,000 miles (dust, dirt, bird feathers? [Big Grin] ). The K&N was spotless after 4,000+ miles. (maybe because it is red/dark whereas paper = white). Another thing: When I did the scientific test of blowing through the K&N air filter with my hand on the other side - I could feel no air. I took the STP paper filter - I could feel the air. ?!?! Maybe I'm not doing this right but I thought K&N was "high flow" performance? [Big Grin] Oil consumption has been normal... About half a quart every 5,000 miles. Always been that way since day 1. I check the dipstick every Friday. My car's engine sounds perfect. I listen to it all the time for any irregularities. I just changed my oil last night. How long should I keep this fill in there then do a UOA? I had one mechanic tell me that my dipstick could be slightly magnetized - thats why I had those silver particles on it when I dropped oil onto the paper 3x5 card for testing. What do you guys think? I don't have a magnet at home to test it with [Razz] ^^^ I dumped some of the old oil I changed out last night on a 8'11 paper and saw no glittery particles. [I dont know]
 
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I've never had glitter on the dipstick. I see it in the oil drain pan, though. And it lessens for the first couple of oil changes until it gets un-noticeable. On a motorcycle, the glitter is BAD for the first couple of changes, then gets better, but never goes away...I'm guessing it is because of the wet-clutch I have: which is why I don't use synthetics, I think it is much more important in wet-clutch bikes to change the oil frequently rather than go synthetic with long oil change intervals.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by OriginHacker21: ...I've always noticed that the paper air filters always have stuff in them after 3,000 miles (dust, dirt, bird feathers? [Big Grin] ). The K&N was spotless after 4,000+ miles...
Your statement seems to be predicated on the notion that an air filter that remains free of debris is desirable. Hasn't it occurred to you that the real purpose of any air filter is to trap abrasive particulates, and by extension, if it's successful at that task it will necessarily dirty-up? That crap you see on the paper air filter is dirt that didn't make it into the engine. A clean looking K&N is an improperly oiled K&N merrily saying, "Permission granted." to dirt asking to come in. (By the way, the traditional test to judge whether a paper air filter is clogged is to remove it and look through it towards the sun. If you can see light through it, the filter's still useable.)
 

OriginHacker21

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Ray - You are exactly right. Thats what I was unsuccessfully trying to convey: After looking at the spotless K&N I could tell something was wrong. I'll never put a K&N in any vehicle that I drive... The filter didn't even look oiled - K&N media looked like the clothes lint you take out of the washer & dryer filter. [Big Grin] Thanks for the traditional test info - never knew that. Pre-BITOG, every Friday that I washed my car I took out the paper air filter and hit it on my leg or blew between the media to get dust out (excessive I know). Being overly excessive on car care - I sure sleep better with a paper air filter [Razz]
 
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Try a oil filter magnet. It will hold the metal shavings along the side of the oil filter and your oil will run cleaner. I use one. They are a little pricy but they do work. I think I got mine at filtermag.com
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Parrothd34: Try a oil filter magnet. It will hold the metal shavings along the side of the oil filter and your oil will run cleaner. I use one. They are a little pricy but they do work. I think I got mine at filtermag.com
Maybe for ferrous (SIC?) metals. But will it catch non-ferrous metals, tins, lead, brass, copper, aluminum. ( Note, I'm not a metalurgist, so if I have my lists mixed up I apologize in advance. ) I don't think the magnet will be effective for non-ferrous metals. T
 
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Oil magnets do a great job of messing with your relief valve. The better the magnet works the worse your filter works. Great idea. Drain plug magnet -ok but that what you oil filter is for. Overall - what else can you do than what you've done. You dumped the oil, tried a UOA and sound like you'll do another. Good oil & filters. Try to limit how many times you look at your dipstick or you'll drive yourself crazy even by our BITOG standards. A quicker check than dumping your oil in a short OIC is to pull your oil filter and put on another. You can look it over, drain oil and reuse if its ok or even cut it up if you're still hitting shiny stuff. You can even dump the oil and put it back in. IMO the ecotec is just fine but will get more attention for awhile and put a dent in your GC stash. My worst case guess is you'll use up 2 OIC early and 2 UOA but paying under $80 is worth peace of mind.
 

OriginHacker21

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I agree wtih you m2200b. I didn't find any shiney metal in the oil filter. I put some of the dumped oil on a big piece of paper - didn't find anything there either. I could have gone 4,000+ miles on that oil... I agree - the less I look at things the better I'll feel all over. Less to worry about. LOL [Big Grin] All that $$$ does add up after awhile. I'll post the UOA here as soon as I get it from BlackStone. I'm guessing (along with friends) that there won't be anything wrong. [Razz]
 
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