Challenging bike pedal removal

Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
5,156
Location
Winnipeg MB CA
Thought I'd get a jump on the bike maintenance and do some maintenance on Jr's winter bike some months before it's required.

The bottom end still seemed fine, but I wanted to make sure I could remove the cartridge when the time comes. The cranks came off OK, and the plastic holder on the non-drive side came out OK, given that rust was not an issue. The cartridge itself was challenging, and as I've had to do before, had to use the impact gun. I found myself questioning the unconventional LH thread (and so R to loosen), but after a few seconds it spun out fine. I reinstalled it with lots of anti-seize compound.

The pedals - Oy! The non-drive side with its LH thread was tough but not terrible, but the drive-side pedal put up quite a fight. Finally took a propane torch to the crank, and was able to break it free thereafter with lots of leverage. Without the 15 mm flats, there's no way I could have removed it just using the hex recess and an Allen wrench.

Needless to say, I reinstalled the pedals with lots of anti-seize.

I would like to rebuild both pedals, which sound dry and are a bit sloppy. What size are those tiny ball bearings?

Thanks in advance!
 
As much trouble as you had it sounds like a mid-season overhaul might be considered. Is it always this difficult?

The ball bearings could be metric or SAE depending on the pedals. Got calipers?
 
I ground down a 15MM combination wrench on the open end side to make it thin enough to remove pedals. I use a dab of wheel bearing grease on the threads which is good enough for me. A quick Google if it is accurate came up with this:

Copy & paste FYI 5/32″, 1/8 ″, 3/16″ and 1/4″. Oh, and some Shimano pedals even use 3/32″ size balls.
 
Rebuilding pedals? Is it worth the effort? I mean, nothing lasts forever and all. On my SPD's I had to buy a tool to open them up. I think I rebuilt mine once; recently I had one get loose and I had to tighten it up, not sure why, but the grease looked just fine to me.

Might have to mic them to find out size, then you can order more. But I'm dubious as to need, just slap some grease in there and go. As for ball bearings, jeez, it's been years but I bought a bag of multiple sizes once. Something like this. That way if one got loose and disappeared on me, I could just quickly replace. YMMV.

Not sure if anti-seize is required, seems like most of the bicycle repair pages I've read indicate to use grease. Not sure if it is because they (bike mechanics) would not normally have anti-seize lying around, or if grease is simply good enough. I use regular old marine grease for my bikes and it seems to work just fine.

Now if I could just keep the darn chain clean...
 
McMaster-Carr stocks a HUGE selection of bearings if you ever need them and can't find them anywhere else.

They have an online catalog, and a very special deal with UPS. Very low shipping cost that they pass on the there customers, and extremely fast shipping for that very low price. Call before 1 PM EST and expect it to arrive at your location before the close of business the next day 95 % of the time, and the other 5 % the day after that. They have been around for over 100 years and are a very good company to buy all kind of mechanical parts and tools from.
 
Unless they are super expensive Dura-Ace pedals, I wouldn't think they are worth your time rebuilding. If you're rebuilding them for the experience, then go for it (I too rebuild things, because I just have to know).

I have noticed if pedals are over tightened, then they can be a real challenge to get off. There is no reason to tighten them more than about 1/4 turn past finger tight.
 

had a set so corroded they pulled the aluminum threads out of the cranks. A few winters of commuting will do that.
 
I ground down a 15MM combination wrench on the open end side to make it thin enough to remove pedals. I use a dab of wheel bearing grease on the threads which is good enough for me. A quick Google if it is accurate came up with this:

Copy & paste FYI 5/32″, 1/8 ″, 3/16″ and 1/4″. Oh, and some Shimano pedals even use 3/32″ size balls.
These guys have a wide enough flat that I had no trouble getting a Craftsman 15 mm wrench in there.

Looks like I'll have to take one apart and mic the ball bearings.
 
From previous posts #35 & son are hardcore cyclists and year round commuters. Rebuilding pedals instead of tossing them and buying new ones seems like it would align with their lifestyle. At least for #35 since he's servicing son's bike.
 

This is the best pedal wrench out there in my opinion.


These pedals are fantastic for the cost.

You may want to chase the threads in the crank arms with a tap or thread file.
 
This is the best pedal wrench out there in my opinion.


This is the best pedal wrench out there in my opinion.

It better be, wow! :oops:💲💲

I've beat the snot out of a pair of these in the woods for around 1500 miles now waiting for something to fail. Lots of rock strikes and dust but I don't think they've ever been muddy. 100% Race Face Chester knock-offs visually.

Fooker pedals
 
From previous posts #35 & son are hardcore cyclists and year round commuters. Rebuilding pedals instead of tossing them and buying new ones seems like it would align with their lifestyle. At least for #35 since he's servicing son's bike.
As with cars, it's the winter riding that's hard on the bikes. The mild days are probably the worst, as that's when you get to ride through salty slush.

Jr broke the non-drive-side crank arm on the winter bike the winter before last. The replacement arm is the one I didn't have as much trouble with the other day, given that the pedal only had 1.5 winters on it.

I'd replaced the pedals perhaps three or four years ago, and it looks like I had neglected to use grease or anti-seize. I think that's why I had such a hard time this time on the drive-side crank. Anyway, lesson learned!

Rebuilding the pedals, if possible, fits with my aversion to waste. Saving money is nice too!
 
This is the best pedal wrench out there in my opinion.



It better be, wow! :oops:💲💲
It’s kinda like buying Snap On. Once you use it a couple of times, the sting goes away.
‘I got one for my buddy at the bike shop. He loves since it fits everything.
 
Back
Top