Chainsaw chains?

[buck91]

Alright so what I've gathered is that I *believe* I'd prefer a semi-chisel grind to help my mid-power saws keep up speed. But I really have no use for a low kick back setup like the H30 or 95VP.

Anything out there fit that bill? Seems like semi chisel and low kick back tend to be hand in hand. FWIW I do mostly cut hardwoods, especially Oak with some birch and others. Doesn't mean I never see cottonwood or pine, though.

 

[meadows]

Astro14-mail them to him.

 

[spasm3]

Alright so what I've gathered is that I *believe* I'd prefer a semi-chisel grind to help my mid-power saws keep up speed. But I really have no use for a low kick back setup like the H30 or 95VP.

Anything out there fit that bill? Seems like semi chisel and low kick back tend to be hand in hand. FWIW I do mostly cut hardwoods, especially Oak with some birch and others. Doesn't mean I never see cottonwood or pine, though.

The semi-chisel chains I listed should work well. I think I listed 18 inch ,but double check the links. You can also use the chain selector link to see what is available for your specs.

 

[IndyIan]

Here's a good video on advanced sharpening techniques
It would be fun to tune up one of the thinner chains on a cheap saw and make some bets with your buddies with new factory chains on good saws!

 

[spasm3]

And old dry hard red oak log i
cut last year.

 

[HangFire]

Unless the links have full length rakers (shark fins), you can easily turn a low kickback semi-chisel into a standard semi-chisel... just file down the rakers a bit, as already described here.

 

[doitmyself]

Alright so what I've gathered is that I *believe* I'd prefer a semi-chisel grind to help my mid-power saws keep up speed. But I really have no use for a low kick back setup like the H30 or 95VP.

Anything out there fit that bill? Seems like semi chisel and low kick back tend to be hand in hand. FWIW I do mostly cut hardwoods, especially Oak with some birch and others. Doesn't mean I never see cottonwood or pine, though.

I'm very surprised that Oregon does not offer a semi-chisel professional (non low kickback) for your saws like Stihl chain does. Maybe consider other brands?

I have never heard/experienced that low kerf chain was more prone to pinching. I only use it on our Stihl top handle arborist saw and pole pruner. I judge it as less aggressive, but fast for limbing. Just my opinions.

On my slightly bigger Stihl 026's, I don't notice a difference in "aggressiveness" between .325 chisel and semi-chisel. Aggressive in this instance used as in requiring more power. The chisel cuts slightly better/faster, but dulls much easier with any dirt on low stumps or the logs. The semi-chisel only cuts very slightly slower and stays sharper noticeably better with dirty wood (very low stumps and/or logs laying/accumulating ground dirt). I've returned to using semi-chisel because of the sharpening characteristics and MY cutting needs.

On Stihl low kickback chain (I install for novices), their design cuts nearly as well as non safety chain. Nothing like the very old, original kickback designs, but slightly harder to file the rakers

In my opinion, going to an 18 inch bar on your smaller saws will affect power needs more than chisel vs. semi-chisel. It will certainly help for increasing your reach, but it will not power through a log using the entire 18 inches. For light trimming work, we sometimes go to a 14 inch bar on your size saw (Stihl MS250) to make it slightly more into a "screamer".

Again, just MY opinions and not really much help to you.

 

[IndyIan]

If you can learn to touch up your chains with a hand file and guide, round filed chisel teeth are a good way to go IMO. They are faster than semi chisel and if you get into some dirt a quick trip around the chain with the file on the next tank of gas, gets you back up to speed. Also hand filed chains last a long time compared to taking the chains in to get sharpened as often they take off quite a bit tooth on all of them to even them up with the worst tooth.

 

[spasm3]

If you can learn to touch up your chains with a hand file and guide, round filed chisel teeth are a good way to go IMO. They are faster than semi chisel and if you get into some dirt a quick trip around the chain with the file on the next tank of gas, gets you back up to speed. Also hand filed chains last a long time compared to taking the chains in to get sharpened as often they take off quite a bit tooth on all of them to even them up with the worst tooth.

Very true.

I prefer the full chisel for my time. I want to cut fast and get it done. I can sharpen on a rainy day, and touchups in between tanks of fuel. So much time saved for me. I stay out of the dirt with my saw.

One reason i kind of want my own chain grinder for when i hit nails. If the guy grinding, taps the cutters numerous times and does not heat them up, the cutter stays hard. If he just leans on it and grinds getting them hot, the cutters are soft from then on.

 

[maineiac]

As they say, "opinions are like asses, everyone has one"... here's one (my opinion, not my arse):

I cut a lot and have 2 primary go-to saws - a 50cc Stihl 261 and a 75cc Husky 372XP. The 50cc takes care of 75% of my needs - we don't have many big trees here in the east, so the 75cc is relegated to large firewood bucking jobs and the odd large tree. It pulls up to a 30" bar reasonably well in most kinds of wood.

My 50cc saw is a little more powerful than your 50cc class 246 (3.0KW vs 2.3KW) and I run an 18" bar with a semi-chisel (factory bar range for this saw is 16-20") - it balances out perfectly with the 18".

Your saw had a recommended range of 13"-18"(I believe). I cut about 10 cord of spruce and fir from the stump this weekend and bucked it up with a friend's 246 (we traded saws for the day) and I was very happy with the saw (running a semi-chisel and an 18" bar) so I think you'll be fine. It might be a touch nose-heavy, but overall it was fine.

I stick with semi-chisel and never recommend full chisel - they're much fussier for casual cutters to sharpen, dull more quickly in any dirty wood and chain corners seem to get more severe damage when they hit dirt, rocks, odd nail or screw. Keep a couple of spare sharp chains in reserve and rotate them (don't forget to flip your bar once in a while also!)

JMO

 

[spasm3]

Just cut up a pine blocking my drive. Freezing rain brought it down. I'm on generator power now.

The husky 390 cleared it quick!
I keep my saws ready to go !
This is where I like full chisel. Get it cut quick and get out of the rain!

 

[spasm3]

The are falling as fast as I can cut them.
I've moved 3 off the drive. One barely missed our power transformer to the buried power lines.
This is starting to get ridiculous.
I go on call Monday, have to keep the drive passible.

 

[bchannell]

I would agree the Woodland Pro chains are some of the best. If they're kept sharp they'll work on smaller saws with longer bars, just don't expect to buzz right thru as you don't have the power. Semi chisel chains are more durable and will cut very well when sharp. I know it is less bending to put a longer bar on a saw, but I like to use the shortest bar I can, it just makes it easier to not hit something you don't want to. I have two Echo saws set up for different thingss. One large 50+cc with an 18" bar and full chisel chain for felling and bucking. One 40cc with a 14" or 16' bar and semi chisel chain for general cleanup work, both work well, but both of the saws are modified to give more power, so I can get away with a 16"+ on a 40cc saw fairly well.
Keeping a chain sharp is the real key to a chainsaw. Even a crappy chain will cut fairly well sharp, but the best chain in the world won't cut worth a dang dull. I use the Pferd file guide below. I've tried almost everything, even the $200 file jigs and they're no better than what you get with this $40 guide. You simply open it up, drop in the files and have at it. I can use just a file, but even with that you get off just a bit each time and then you have to go to something like this file guide to straighten it up, so I just use it all the time.

 

[spasm3]

This is rediculous. Another one!
The ground is so wet they are just pulling the roots up. This is like the 5th or 6th one. I'm tired now.

 

[spasm3]

.

 

[spasm3]

Arnold and the Termite, ready for tonight's ice storm.

 

[wilhary]

Oregon makes a lot of replacement chain options for chainsaw models by Oregon as well as other brands. The power and cutting ability are very good. This is not an underpowered, flimsy chain saw. I've cut some very large trees with it, and it's worked like a champ. I think the battery life is good. I carry with me Oregon CS300 Cordless Battery Chainsaw whenever I need to cut wooden bricks. Many consumers disregard this chainsaw as not being as powerful before they have even used it, but its optimal performance, Oregon chain, and its professional touch make this one of the best chainsaws in the industry. Oregon chain is made in several pitches - 1/4" is the smallest, 3/8" is the most popular, and 3/4” is the largest.

 

[vwmaniaman]

I cut wood to heat our home for 7 years when I was younger. I still have those 2 saws. First saw was a Poulan XL? with the countervibe. I still have it and it still cuts great. Other saw is a Husqvarna Rancher 44 with 16" bar and a Windsor chain that came with it. Still have the original chain on the Husqvarna.. Just sharpen and go. The Poulan has gone thru about 5 chains. My oldest son and I cut oak and hickory mostly and some scrub trees. Keep them out of the dirt and they last a long time. Now days I mostly just trim our trees. My little Ryobi pole saw with a battery is really nice for that stuff.

 

[BISCUT]

Isn't the speedcut a narrower chain? Which requires a narrower bar? That's where the performance advantage comes in: narrower kerf, meaning cuts quicker, but at the expense of some room if you were felling. I can see a saw getting stuck quick in a thinner kerf, even if you're careful. Not a big deal if you're cross-cutting firewood, but a potential drawback for cutting down trees. A 16" Husky (I've got a 445) isn't a powerhouse saw. Nice saw, lightweight, but not a powerhouse, so I would avoid the most aggressive cutting chains.

I have had the same 445 Rancher for years. I agree! Save the thin kerf for your tablesaw.

 

[jhellwig]

Oregon makes a lot of replacement chain options for chainsaw models by Oregon as well as other brands. The power and cutting ability are very good. This is not an underpowered, flimsy chain saw. I've cut some very large trees with it, and it's worked like a champ. I think the battery life is good. I carry with me Oregon CS300 Cordless Battery Chainsaw whenever I need to cut wooden bricks. Many consumers disregard this chainsaw as not being as powerful before they have even used it, but its optimal performance, Oregon chain, and its professional touch make this one of the best chainsaws in the industry. Oregon chain is made in several pitches - 1/4" is the smallest, 3/8" is the most popular, and 3/4” is the largest.

Wow… haven't seen a blatant spam bot thread bump in a long time.