im not saying do it by anymeans, saws are designed to run out of fuel and have 1/4 tank bar oil left to ensure the bar/chain stays lubed, and used oil would run out way faster, on the flip side, oil is oil, and in the winter you want to run a thinner bar oil in the winter to ensure the bar/chain is properly lubed. like i said echo is on the thin side, and husqvarna offers a winter bar oil, now i doubt youll find it @ lowes, etc, but a servicing dealer SHOULD stock it
Chain saw bar oil??
- Thread starter daman
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I would never use used oil in my STIHLs,
i'll pay for bar oil...lol
can we put a shot of zddp in bar oil? hehe
can we put a shot of zddp in bar oil? hehe
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
daman, you like stihls, is it safe to say you like GM? i thought we liked each other?
Yea i'm a GM life longer and yea STIHLs are my saw's too..witch one don't you like?
and yes were buds!!!!
daman, you like stihls, is it safe to say you like GM? i thought we liked each other?
Yea i'm a GM life longer and yea STIHLs are my saw's too..witch one don't you like?
and yes were buds!!!!
I have my great-grandfather's old chainsaw. It's been passed down all these generations and I asked my grandfather what should I put in it? He said as long as it's wet, nobody cared. I know it's seen ATF, motor oil, PSF, and just about any leftover fluid they had laying around. It's over 50 years old and cuts without much of an issue, though it needs a new chain right now. As far as I know, it's on the original bar.
Not sure I'd do that with a quality tool, like a Stihl, though. I've used leftover HD30, HD15w40, and Poulan's bar/chain oil in my other gas chainsaw.
Not sure I'd do that with a quality tool, like a Stihl, though. I've used leftover HD30, HD15w40, and Poulan's bar/chain oil in my other gas chainsaw.
Originally Posted By: bigmike
I have my great-grandfather's old chainsaw. It's been passed down all these generations and I asked my grandfather what should I put in it? He said as long as it's wet, nobody cared. I know it's seen ATF, motor oil, PSF, and just about any leftover fluid they had laying around. It's over 50 years old and cuts without much of an issue, though it needs a new chain right now. As far as I know, it's on the original bar.
Not sure I'd do that with a quality tool, like a Stihl, though. I've used leftover HD30, HD15w40, and Poulan's bar/chain oil in my other gas chainsaw.
Mike look at the drive sprocket(hard to believe that's 50 years old) that tells the story of oil used any marks at all will be wear some deeper then others depending on oil used.
I have my great-grandfather's old chainsaw. It's been passed down all these generations and I asked my grandfather what should I put in it? He said as long as it's wet, nobody cared. I know it's seen ATF, motor oil, PSF, and just about any leftover fluid they had laying around. It's over 50 years old and cuts without much of an issue, though it needs a new chain right now. As far as I know, it's on the original bar.
Not sure I'd do that with a quality tool, like a Stihl, though. I've used leftover HD30, HD15w40, and Poulan's bar/chain oil in my other gas chainsaw.
Mike look at the drive sprocket(hard to believe that's 50 years old) that tells the story of oil used any marks at all will be wear some deeper then others depending on oil used.
Originally Posted By: daman
Mike look at the drive sprocket(hard to believe that's 50 years old) that tells the story of oil used any marks at all will be wear some deeper then others depending on oil used.
At the same time with that age, and if it had any amount of use, the drive sprocket will show signs of wear regardless of the oil that was used...things wear. Not to mention it probably has a manual oiler, which means operator error could inadvertently cause wear if they weren't squirting oil now and again.
Remember, even if it had chain oil used, it was chain oil formulated over the past 50 years...I'm sure they've made improvements during that time!
Mike look at the drive sprocket(hard to believe that's 50 years old) that tells the story of oil used any marks at all will be wear some deeper then others depending on oil used.
At the same time with that age, and if it had any amount of use, the drive sprocket will show signs of wear regardless of the oil that was used...things wear. Not to mention it probably has a manual oiler, which means operator error could inadvertently cause wear if they weren't squirting oil now and again.
Remember, even if it had chain oil used, it was chain oil formulated over the past 50 years...I'm sure they've made improvements during that time!
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: daman
Mike look at the drive sprocket(hard to believe that's 50 years old) that tells the story of oil used any marks at all will be wear some deeper then others depending on oil used.
At the same time with that age, and if it had any amount of use, the drive sprocket will show signs of wear regardless of the oil that was used...things wear. Not to mention it probably has a manual oiler, which means operator error could inadvertently cause wear if they weren't squirting oil now and again.
Remember, even if it had chain oil used, it was chain oil formulated over the past 50 years...I'm sure they've made improvements during that time!
Correct..i guess i meant to say deep wear in the drives,,we have a stihl here that has 3 years of cutting on a new clutch drive and the drive is like new yet,keeping the chain tight is key also.
Originally Posted By: daman
Mike look at the drive sprocket(hard to believe that's 50 years old) that tells the story of oil used any marks at all will be wear some deeper then others depending on oil used.
At the same time with that age, and if it had any amount of use, the drive sprocket will show signs of wear regardless of the oil that was used...things wear. Not to mention it probably has a manual oiler, which means operator error could inadvertently cause wear if they weren't squirting oil now and again.
Remember, even if it had chain oil used, it was chain oil formulated over the past 50 years...I'm sure they've made improvements during that time!
Correct..i guess i meant to say deep wear in the drives,,we have a stihl here that has 3 years of cutting on a new clutch drive and the drive is like new yet,keeping the chain tight is key also.
"keeping the chain tight is key also."
Actually, the above statement is incorrect.
Keeping the chain properly adjusted is what should have been said.
A chainsaw chain that's too tight will wear down the bar much faster than a loose chain. It will also put much more unnecessary stress on the engine and entire drive system.
Actually, the above statement is incorrect.
Keeping the chain properly adjusted is what should have been said.
A chainsaw chain that's too tight will wear down the bar much faster than a loose chain. It will also put much more unnecessary stress on the engine and entire drive system.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
"keeping the chain tight is key also."
Actually, the above statement is incorrect.
Keeping the chain properly adjusted is what should have been said.
A chainsaw chain that's too tight will wear down the bar much faster than a loose chain. It will also put much more unnecessary stress on the engine and entire drive system.
Yes yes thats wht i meant i know should have took the time and stated it properly....
"keeping the chain tight is key also."
Actually, the above statement is incorrect.
Keeping the chain properly adjusted is what should have been said.
A chainsaw chain that's too tight will wear down the bar much faster than a loose chain. It will also put much more unnecessary stress on the engine and entire drive system.
Yes yes thats wht i meant i know should have took the time and stated it properly....
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Remember, even if it had chain oil used, it was chain oil formulated over the past 50 years...I'm sure they've made improvements during that time!
Yeah, it was a bit sludged up with I got it. I dumped some MMO and HD30 in the oiler and cleaned it out as best I could, but it ran without any problems irregardless of what cleaning I was doing to it. I used it last year to cut up a pretty good sized stack of wood.
The problem I have is the oiler has a cap that was plastic. That broke last year and I've yet to find a replacement. I might just find a bolt that fits the hole/threads.
Remember, even if it had chain oil used, it was chain oil formulated over the past 50 years...I'm sure they've made improvements during that time!
Yeah, it was a bit sludged up with I got it. I dumped some MMO and HD30 in the oiler and cleaned it out as best I could, but it ran without any problems irregardless of what cleaning I was doing to it. I used it last year to cut up a pretty good sized stack of wood.
The problem I have is the oiler has a cap that was plastic. That broke last year and I've yet to find a replacement. I might just find a bolt that fits the hole/threads.
It's not just about the bar and chain life. The most important reason to use the bar oil your saw calls for is that's what your oiler was made to pump. Used oil, or any thing other than the bar oil your saws oil pump calls for can bomb the pump. It's tested by ounces per min @ 10000 rpms collected in a beaker. each saw has a different output. 10000 of 6sec times 10 gets the number.
I have declined to repair many saws over the yrs because the repair cost exceeds the value of the unit.
Stick to the brand of oil for your saw, and pick the one that applies to your air temp, as most good brands have different oils for different air temps.
Just cuz it has been working does not make it advisable.
I have declined to repair many saws over the yrs because the repair cost exceeds the value of the unit.
Stick to the brand of oil for your saw, and pick the one that applies to your air temp, as most good brands have different oils for different air temps.
Just cuz it has been working does not make it advisable.
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