Castrol HM in old Olds

[vronline]

I put Castrol HM in my 1967 Olds Cutlass a couple of weeks ago. I'm noticing quite a bit more leakage (main seal) with this oil than before when I was using Havoline 10W30. Has anyone had this experience?

I've only driven it a couple hundred miles on this change so far.

 

[vronline]

Also, could you recommend a good year 'round oil for this application. I appreciate any thoughts on this topic.

 

[dave1251]

Auto-Rx your ride and use shell rotela 5W-40. If your main seal is still leaking replace the seal. That is my suggestion.

 

[Ron AKA]

My thoughts on oil for older vehicles may be a bit unconventional. I'm presuming this is just an older vehicle and not a rebuild hobby or hot rod. I have a 1988 Olds 88 and it is a car for my kids. Still under 100,000 miles and running well.

For an older vehicle like this that does not owe me much I start to cut back on cost. I just buy on grade, latest API rating, and price. I'm not hung up on using the same oil, change after change. I have not stooped to using a 10w30 oil grade to save $$'s, as I think the 5w30 especially for all season is a far better choice at only a small cost increase. Has been so for more than a decade.

So last oil change I put in plain Pennzoil 5w30, API SM from Wallymart. I've also used Castrol GTX, ESSO (Exxon), and even some house brands which I'm sure were ESSO. I avoid Quaker State, and can say I've never put a quart in my vehicles.

Can't help you with oil leaks as I have never been convinced the oil used has much to do with it if anything. Obvious answer is to replace the seal, but in an older vehicle that is much easier said than paid for.

 

[schwartr88]

Try Maxlife.

 

[dave1251]

Ron AKA
Member
Member # 13322

posted 15 August, 2006 08:59


I avoid Quaker State, and can say I've never put a quart in my vehicles


Oh you just started it.

 

[Ron AKA]

quote:

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Originally posted by dave1251:
Ron AKA
Member
Member # 13322
posted 15 August, 2006 08:59
I avoid Quaker State, and can say I've never put a quart in my vehicles
Oh you just started it.

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Before you lite the fire around the stake, let me provide a bit of colour. Consumer Reports test oils many years ago (1986 if I had to guess), and based it on two factors. One was a viscosity breakdown test that found significant differences between the oils tested. There was also the taxi driving test and teardown wear measurements which showed no significant differences between tested oils. If I recall correctly Quaker State failed the viscosity breakdown test in a miserable fashion and was last or near last. Mobil 1 finished first - the only synthetic tested. A number of oils failed the low temp pour test, and Mobil 1 was highest rated. Not surprising knowing what we do now about synthetics.

In those "ancient" times if you asked the "man on the street" Quaker State was likely to be described as a premium conventional oil and commanded a premium price. Just a personal decision but I blacklisted Quaker State for the deception in the quality/price game and never have or will buy it. Of the conventional oils, Pennzoil, Castrol, and Valvoline faired quite well, and I continue to buy them. Simple outdated prejudice? Probably! Nothing more to it than that.

 

[schwartr88]

IIRC there was a post on here not to long ago stating that Pennzoil and QS were almost the same oil.

 

[dave1251]

schwartr88
Member
Member # 11659

posted 15 August, 2006 09:35
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IIRC there was a post on here not to long ago stating that Pennzoil and QS were almost the same oil.
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Posts: 286 | From: Morrice, MI | Registered: Jan 2006 | IP: Logged |


No from the same company. Shell Oil Products or SOPUS.

 

[Stoney57]

I would avoid using any SM oil in a 67 olds engine. An engine that old is not designed to run on SM oil. I only run shell rotella T 15w40 in my olds 350's. Any high quality diesel 15w40 would be a good choice.

 

[Clyde65]

Why are you running a 10W-30 oil in a 1967 Olds Cutlass anyway? You should be running a minimum of straight 30 for break-in after a rebuild, then onto 10W-40.

 

[dave1251]

Stoney57 but HDEO may not be either. I dont buy into the SM oil and older engine debate. I did recommend shell rotella 5W-40 because it's a good 40WT oil cheaper than most synthetics. It does have a robust HDEO add pack and it dual rated SL. But then again I dont have a pre 2006 engine.

 

[vronline]

Clyde, 10W-30 is what the manual recommends. However, I have no problems with running an xW-40 oil in it. That's actually the weight that's in it now.

 

[m2200b]

Castrol HM 10w-40 is pretty thick so I'm guessing using thicker oil including hdeos won't help the main seal leak. I'd give the HM a short OCI and if it doesn't slow the leak go back to Havoline.

 

[bighead]

quote:

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Originally posted by Clyde65:
Why are you running a 10W-30 oil in a 1967 Olds Cutlass anyway? You should be running a minimum of straight 30 for break-in after a rebuild, then onto 10W-40.

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That wouldn't happen to be....Maxlife 10w-40, would it?

 

[Clyde65]

quote:

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Originally posted by bighead:
That wouldn't happen to be....Maxlife 10w-40, would it?

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You got it brother!