Castrol High Mileage 10w40 SM. Flat Tappet safe?

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Hello all, my name is Rob.
I am a LONG time lurker. 10 years or more now.
I think it was even before BITOG had a forum as I never remember seeing one.

I am running out of my 275 GALLON stash that I bought in bulk a few years back. ~$4.00 a quart for Redline 10w40 back then. Now retail is $10+

I have been searching for three days now after realizing the Castrol High Mileage had an SM rating in the donut, but no definitive answer on weather or not the CHM SM rating is suitable for flat tappets.

I have a somewhat unique career that exposes me to a lot of information.
Aviation/Facility Maintenance, Heavy industry.
Lubes are some of the heart of everything I use, touch, see, smell, dream.

I have seen every "major" oil being tested at our in house test facility (48 test criteria)
Royal Purple and Amsoil included and the results were not impressive. Even had some ARX tested, and from what I have read on this site about it, I will keep my fingers from typing about it.

So, with all that, can anyone point me to some SOLID info of a VOA of the new SM rated CHM?
I am concerned mainly with the anti-wear and cleanser aspects.

Or, should I just return the oil and wait the few days to have some Redline shipped out to me?

I need a good all around 'fleet' oil, for which Redline has served me more than I expected. I prefer 10w40.

There are two Toyota sludgers in the 'fleet" that Toyota techs & engineers were greatly impressed with when they went in for that "recall".
Two are flat tappet Land Rovers. Discovery and Defender.
Toyota 4Runner and Tacoma... (The Tacoma is driven extremely hard on an almost daily basis)
and that is not including my small engines and friends vehicles I work on. Every Internal combustion engine I have or have serviced has had Redline for the last few years.

275 gallons lasts a long time, and they were mixed monthly with a heavy duty 55 gallon drum paint mixer. So, I have been out of the oil game for some time.

Do I make any sense?
Been awhile since I posted on a forum.

I run MMO or SL1 in the gas and that is it for lubes/fuels.
 
Current Castrol High Mileage is indeed SN, but for your purposes there will be little difference between SM and SN if flat tappets are your concern, the ZDDP in both will be near identical as far as I've been able to tell.

I'm a fan of Castrol High Mileage and in all honesty I'm not sure if the ZDDP levels are higher in the 10w40 or not. The thinner grades are no different than any other SM or SN oil as far as ZDDP goes. Very little data here on the Castrol High Mileage as far as used oil analysis go, so I'm personally working on that ha ha.

My Jeep is flat tappet but once broken in they don't really need more ZDDP as the spring pressures are relatively low. Is that the case for the Toyota's you mentioned? Anyway it seems to work well in my Jeep, I'm on my second OCI with it, very smooth and quiet but the UOA is still pending so all I have are impressions to share.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep


My Jeep is flat tappet but once broken in they don't really need more ZDDP as the spring pressures are relatively low. Is that the case for the Toyota's you mentioned? Anyway it seems to work well in my Jeep, I'm on my second OCI with it, very smooth and quiet but the UOA is still pending so all I have are impressions to share.


I am mostly concerned with the longevity of the Rovers and wear, something to keep the two Yota's sludge free... So maybe just stick with what has been serving best and return the Castrol?
As for the one Toyota X-runner I beat the living snot out of, I really don't care about it and will drive it till it's dead, but is has had the same Redline 10w40 since 350 miles. I am actually surprised I am at 130k on it.
10K OCI with a Pureone replacement at 5,000 miles.
 
Try looking at Castrol.co.uk , Mobil.co.uk or Shell.co.uk oil finder page details. Oddly enough you might find Magnetec 10/40 is OK, as most of the flat tappet trouble was break in oil related OR was the result of using very poor quality parts during re builds.
Do you have high oil consumption or leak concerns, if so the High Mileage oil is a good idea, also if you don't have cold start issues (where is NJJ?) even GTX 15w40 could be a cheaper option. Mobil and Shell are just as good and have similar products, but trying to pick an all purpose oil is tricky if the engines are different. Using an High Mileage oil in a good condition engine is not such a good idea sometimes.
 
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Originally Posted By: skyship
Try looking at Castrol.co.uk , Mobil.co.uk or Shell.co.uk oil finder page details. Oddly enough you might find Magnetec 10/40 is OK, as most of the flat tappet trouble was break in oil related OR was the result of using very poor quality parts during re builds.
Do you have high oil consumption or leak concerns, if so the High Mileage oil is a good idea, also if you don't have cold start issues (where is NJJ?) even GTX 15w40 could be a cheaper option. Mobil and Shell are just as good and have similar products, but trying to pick an all purpose oil is tricky if the engines are different. Using an High Mileage oil in a good condition engine is not such a good idea sometimes.


We don't have magnetec in the States. Also we don't have any 15w40 PCMOs. Again why do you always recommend oils and weights not commonly found or available in the US?
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
cold start issues (where is NJJ?)


I'm by Wayne, NJ... But I'm on the top of a mountain and nothing to block the wind... but I have more than enough to never worry about a cold start issue in the Rovers and some unbranded batteries that have an 8 year full warranty, and prorated after that.

Just wondering about these [censored] ratings that keep changing. I really can give two ishts about catcons, just want oil that will clean A LOT and protect A LOT. And I am second guessing this castrol, which I said, was bought in a pinch.
 
Originally Posted By: volk06


We don't have magnetec in the States. Also we don't have any 15w40 PCMOs. Again why do you always recommend oils and weights not commonly found or available in the US?


(Worldpac has an insane array of oils, most I never saw or heard of for different reasons. I had to make a few trips to one after hurricane Sandy to pick up drums and drums of oils and greases for all the generators, from small portables to units housed in 53' trailers to permanent units housed in about 650 sq ft)

At one point I know I saw Magnatec here. From my understanding, it was just some esters that have an affinity for metal in the adpack.

Just to reiterate, I need an all in one oil, and I guess I should just return the Castrol and get back to the Redline which has served well.
 
"I am concerned mainly with the anti-wear and cleanser aspects......Just to reiterate, I need an all in one oil, and I guess I should just return the Castrol and get back to the Redline which has served well.
"

I'm a big fan of HDEO. You might try Rotella T6 5w40. Nice dose of ZDDP too.
Walmart has it for about $22 a gallon. $5.50 a quart is not a bad deal.
 
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Best all around oil to replace that redline would be a 5w-40 hdeo such as rotella t6. My personal favorite is schaeffers 5w-40. I buy it in 6 gallon cases and 12 qt cases, but larger quantities are surely available if you are alreday set up for 55 gal drum. Free shipping over $375. Half price of Redline or Amsoil. Outstanding performance. I order from "salesrep" here on bitog.

I would prefer the quaker state defy High Mileage oil (over castrol green bottle) due it's advertised extra anti-wear additves like zinc and phosphorous, plus it is a syn blend.
 
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: skyship
Try looking at Castrol.co.uk , Mobil.co.uk or Shell.co.uk oil finder page details. Oddly enough you might find Magnetec 10/40 is OK, as most of the flat tappet trouble was break in oil related OR was the result of using very poor quality parts during re builds.
Do you have high oil consumption or leak concerns, if so the High Mileage oil is a good idea, also if you don't have cold start issues (where is NJJ?) even GTX 15w40 could be a cheaper option. Mobil and Shell are just as good and have similar products, but trying to pick an all purpose oil is tricky if the engines are different. Using an High Mileage oil in a good condition engine is not such a good idea sometimes.


We don't have magnetec in the States. Also we don't have any 15w40 PCMOs. Again why do you always recommend oils and weights not commonly found or available in the US?


Surprised there is no Magnetec in the US. The reason for checking UK sites is the silly CAFE game that gives the wrong grades, also you can see if an oil is a true synthetic by looking at the German sites.
 
If you need a source for cross checking OCI limits if you use the associated oil, the UK version of the majors still lists max OCI figures, BUT many US sites have removed them for legal reasons. The Castrol R&D folks think that the OCI for figures agreed with some US dealers or manufacturers should be zero if its a CAFE game 20 grade, so removing the OCI figures was a good move in legal terms as it will dodge a potential class action law suit one day.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Surprised there is no Magnetec in the US.


I think Castrol has more than enough varieties on the shelf in North America. They're almost as bad as SOPUS for that, but at least Castrol doesn't use 18 different brand names.
wink.gif


There's already GTX, GTX synthetic blend (I've recently seen it so it's still out there), HM, and two varieties of synthetic, all with plenty of grade choices. They offer one of the few readily available European spec oils (GC). They also have no less than three varieties of 15w40 HDEOs on my Walmart's shelf.

As for OCIs listed on oil sites, well, either they can stick to the automakers' recommendations verbatim, or they can offer an extended warranty (like Amsoil and Mobil). Both are reasonable options.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: skyship
Surprised there is no Magnetec in the US.


I think Castrol has more than enough varieties on the shelf in North America. They're almost as bad as SOPUS for that, but at least Castrol doesn't use 18 different brand names.
wink.gif


There's already GTX, GTX synthetic blend (I've recently seen it so it's still out there), HM, and two varieties of synthetic, all with plenty of grade choices. They offer one of the few readily available European spec oils (GC). They also have no less than three varieties of 15w40 HDEOs on my Walmart's shelf.

As for OCIs listed on oil sites, well, either they can stick to the automakers' recommendations verbatim, or they can offer an extended warranty (like Amsoil and Mobil). Both are reasonable options.


The extended warranties are a joke, if your engine goes bang because of bad oil it is one expensive big job that would take years to prove it was caused by bad oil. The oil company will just say the engine was defective or abused by over revving and you will have to prove it was not true in a court to get them to pay for the repairs or a new engine. No lawyer will touch that kind of case on a percentage basis even if you offered them 99%, because the costs involved in all the expert engineering reports have to be paid up front and the oil company lawyer will just play for time until you run out of money trying to bring the case to court.
If you have a new engine then there might be a better case, but it would still be very difficult to prove in a court. An engineering report saying it was probably caused by the oil is just no good in a legal sense and this difficulty in providing proof for older engines in particular is also allowing snake oil companies to escape on a regular basis.
 
If you want to up the zinc and phosphorous of your oil for the cam, I would add one or two qt's. of Mobil 1 0w50 racing oil. It has way to much zinc and phosphorous to run by itself on a D/D but if you cut it down with 0/20 or 0/30 oil, it works very good.
I use it(Mobil 1 0w50 racing oil and 0/20 Advanced Fuel Economy) in a 50/50 mix in my S2000, my brother uses the same mix in his '10 Corvette and his '71 Camaro.
 
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That's all true, but in the end, an oil company does have to stand behind their oil one way or another. I don't think the oil companies have much to worry about their oil causing a failure except in very limited circumstances, and most of those will not really be the oil's fault, but the fault of someone using the wrong product for the application. Just about every oil company offers some form of warranty, and the most attractive warranties I've seen are those that get the least marketing push (i.e. something like Mobil Super 100 - no fancy mileage guarantees, nor requirements to use their product solely - use it as directed is all they require).
 
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