Sorry for another thread...Im new and Im unsure of how to delete other threads...After reading on here that group III synthetics dont cling to metal, but its the add packs that help it to cling, its got me a little concerned...I start my car many many times per day, and from what Im drawing about group III oils is that they just all leak down into the pan leaving your engine parts dry for the next start...This cant be good! especially with all the many starts I do per day. How well does the Castrol Edge w/ Titanium cling to parts? will there be sufficient oil film for morning starts and the multiple starts per day I put it through? Its 5W20 by the way, I dont want to move up to 5W30 and I dont want to put Lucas or anything in the oil. Is this a legitimate concern like Ive been told, or is it just bunk?
Castrol Edge w/ Titanium 5W20 clinging ability..
- Thread starter gregk24
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EDGE with TI is Castrol's best oil. you have nothing to worry about. your engine will outlast your cars body using it.
its just as good as anything in your honda. I run it in my S2000 and so far i love it.
IMO EDGE FST is on par with every other quality synthetic you can buy. It aslo has a high TBN which means it is great for long drain intervals.
its just as good as anything in your honda. I run it in my S2000 and so far i love it.
IMO EDGE FST is on par with every other quality synthetic you can buy. It aslo has a high TBN which means it is great for long drain intervals.
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Every oil leaks down into the pan, trust me, even if a tiny bit of something "clings" to your engine parts, it is nowhere near the same as having full oil pressure.
Get a good filter with a quality anti drainback valve that will keep oil at the ready to be forced into the motor by the oil pump. Other then that every oil in the market will work totally fine.
Thicker oils won't fix it either, Lucas is a scam, as is most oil additives.
Get a good filter with a quality anti drainback valve that will keep oil at the ready to be forced into the motor by the oil pump. Other then that every oil in the market will work totally fine.
Thicker oils won't fix it either, Lucas is a scam, as is most oil additives.
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Use the Castrol with total confidence.
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Every oil leaks down into the pan, trust me, even if a tiny bit of something "clings" to your engine parts, it is nowhere near the same as having full oil pressure.
Get a good filter with a quality anti drainback valve that will keep oil at the ready to be forced into the motor by the oil pump. Other then that every oil in the market will work totally fine.
Thicker oils won't fix it either, Lucas is a scam, as is most oil additives.
Seemed to quiet down my wife's Gran Prix's engine knocking when I used it way back when...
Every oil leaks down into the pan, trust me, even if a tiny bit of something "clings" to your engine parts, it is nowhere near the same as having full oil pressure.
Get a good filter with a quality anti drainback valve that will keep oil at the ready to be forced into the motor by the oil pump. Other then that every oil in the market will work totally fine.
Thicker oils won't fix it either, Lucas is a scam, as is most oil additives.
Seemed to quiet down my wife's Gran Prix's engine knocking when I used it way back when...
Okay, then Lucas is a scam for properly working engines. It is however, a useful technique for certain situations when you for instance, have rod knock and don't want to disassemble the entire bottom end of an engine.
Its to say Lucas is the big hammer you never need if you're making sure to go the extra mile fixing things right.
Its to say Lucas is the big hammer you never need if you're making sure to go the extra mile fixing things right.
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I like the Edge with Syntec, as I don't do too much extended drain stuff. I would be wasting money.
Sometimes, ignorance is bliss.
Before the advent of BITOG, many people slept better at night and their cars never knew the difference.
Before the advent of BITOG, many people slept better at night and their cars never knew the difference.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Sometimes, ignorance is bliss.
Before the advent of BITOG, many people slept better at night and their cars never knew the difference.
Agree ^
Sometimes, ignorance is bliss.
Before the advent of BITOG, many people slept better at night and their cars never knew the difference.
Agree ^
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Sorry for another thread...Im new and Im unsure of how to delete other threads...After reading on here that group III synthetics dont cling to metal, but its the add packs that help it to cling, its got me a little concerned...I start my car many many times per day, and from what Im drawing about group III oils is that they just all leak down into the pan leaving your engine parts dry for the next start...This cant be good! especially with all the many starts I do per day. How well does the Castrol Edge w/ Titanium cling to parts? will there be sufficient oil film for morning starts and the multiple starts per day I put it through? Its 5W20 by the way, I dont want to move up to 5W30 and I dont want to put Lucas or anything in the oil. Is this a legitimate concern like Ive been told, or is it just bunk?
Your over thinking this "clinging" thing way to much. Even after the oil drains down, there will still be a coat of oil on every part of the engine. Nothing is "dry".
Sorry for another thread...Im new and Im unsure of how to delete other threads...After reading on here that group III synthetics dont cling to metal, but its the add packs that help it to cling, its got me a little concerned...I start my car many many times per day, and from what Im drawing about group III oils is that they just all leak down into the pan leaving your engine parts dry for the next start...This cant be good! especially with all the many starts I do per day. How well does the Castrol Edge w/ Titanium cling to parts? will there be sufficient oil film for morning starts and the multiple starts per day I put it through? Its 5W20 by the way, I dont want to move up to 5W30 and I dont want to put Lucas or anything in the oil. Is this a legitimate concern like Ive been told, or is it just bunk?
Your over thinking this "clinging" thing way to much. Even after the oil drains down, there will still be a coat of oil on every part of the engine. Nothing is "dry".
Originally Posted By: volk06
Your over thinking this "clinging" thing way to much. Even after the oil drains down, there will still be a coat of oil on every part of the engine. Nothing is "dry".
+1 . You can let your car sit for days and then take the valve cover off and the moving parts will still have a film of oil on them. Its not the "clinging ability" you need to worry about but the "pumping ability" of the oil i.e. how fast can the oil pump get the oil to where its needed at start up. Higher VI oils make this easier since they tend to flow better on "cold starts".
Your over thinking this "clinging" thing way to much. Even after the oil drains down, there will still be a coat of oil on every part of the engine. Nothing is "dry".
+1 . You can let your car sit for days and then take the valve cover off and the moving parts will still have a film of oil on them. Its not the "clinging ability" you need to worry about but the "pumping ability" of the oil i.e. how fast can the oil pump get the oil to where its needed at start up. Higher VI oils make this easier since they tend to flow better on "cold starts".
Originally Posted By: gregk24
After reading on here that group III synthetics dont cling to metal, but its the add packs that help it to cling, its got me a little concerned...I start my car many many times per day, and from what Im drawing about group III oils is that they just all leak down into the pan leaving your engine parts dry for the next start...This cant be good! especially with all the many starts I do per day.
You REALLY misread your other replies.
Why don't you do a little experiment? Find a bottle of oil that has been sitting upright for a few weeks/months/years and open the cap. The inside top of the cap will have a film of oil on it. You car sitting for a couple of hours is not a big deal.
After reading on here that group III synthetics dont cling to metal, but its the add packs that help it to cling, its got me a little concerned...I start my car many many times per day, and from what Im drawing about group III oils is that they just all leak down into the pan leaving your engine parts dry for the next start...This cant be good! especially with all the many starts I do per day.
You REALLY misread your other replies.
Why don't you do a little experiment? Find a bottle of oil that has been sitting upright for a few weeks/months/years and open the cap. The inside top of the cap will have a film of oil on it. You car sitting for a couple of hours is not a big deal.
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
Okay, then Lucas is a scam for properly working engines. It is however, a useful technique for certain situations when you for instance, have rod knock and don't want to disassemble the entire bottom end of an engine.
Its to say Lucas is the big hammer you never need if you're making sure to go the extra mile fixing things right.
Haha well put, and I agree.
Okay, then Lucas is a scam for properly working engines. It is however, a useful technique for certain situations when you for instance, have rod knock and don't want to disassemble the entire bottom end of an engine.
Its to say Lucas is the big hammer you never need if you're making sure to go the extra mile fixing things right.
Haha well put, and I agree.
wemay
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Originally Posted By: surfstar
Sometimes, ignorance is bliss.
Before the advent of BITOG, many people slept better at night and their cars never knew the difference.
This could not have been better stated.
Sometimes, ignorance is bliss.
Before the advent of BITOG, many people slept better at night and their cars never knew the difference.
This could not have been better stated.
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