Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though. Anyway, what are your thoughts, and can you back them up with proof?
Synthetic or Dino oil for better clinging ability?
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Group V, a la Redline = "clings" (stays on after, unsure if during) use. Theory is to help at start-up, etc.
People also say Lucas Oil Stabilizer does the same thing, though that product has other issues.
What is your concern, oil lubrication at start-up? I'd use Redline.
People also say Lucas Oil Stabilizer does the same thing, though that product has other issues.
What is your concern, oil lubrication at start-up? I'd use Redline.
Ever get stp on your hands?
MoS2
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Ever get stp on your hands?
No...I dont want to make the oil "thick". Just curious as to which would protect better when starting your car. I know the synthetic will flow better, but just wondering which would leave a protective oil film behind LONGER.
Ever get stp on your hands?
No...I dont want to make the oil "thick". Just curious as to which would protect better when starting your car. I know the synthetic will flow better, but just wondering which would leave a protective oil film behind LONGER.
ester synthetic oil clings. pao synthetic do not cling
While some base oils exhibit better polarity than others, the additives also play a role in how well an oil adheres to ferrous surface. Highly reactive additive compounds like sodium and magnesium will increase the oil's ability to adhere to ferrous components. Oils that utilize high levels di-esters and polyolesters will also cling to ferrous components.
Therefore, overall engine oil chemistry is more important than the base oils alone when it comes to start-up protection.
Therefore, overall engine oil chemistry is more important than the base oils alone when it comes to start-up protection.
MolaKule
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Quote:
Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though.
I think you're looking at the wrong issue. What vehicle, what engine, how many miles?
Cling has nothing to do with your problem.
You have either a worn oil pump (what is oil pressure?), or your lifters need adjustment, or you have worn piston skirts, or wrist pin wear, or worn bearings, or oil filter.
I once had a Bosch oil filter go bad and my TrailBlazer knocked on startup. I now use PureOne filters exclusively.
Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though.
I think you're looking at the wrong issue. What vehicle, what engine, how many miles?
Cling has nothing to do with your problem.
You have either a worn oil pump (what is oil pressure?), or your lifters need adjustment, or you have worn piston skirts, or wrist pin wear, or worn bearings, or oil filter.
I once had a Bosch oil filter go bad and my TrailBlazer knocked on startup. I now use PureOne filters exclusively.
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MolaKule
Staff member
A tackifier provides cling and is only good for certain applications such as certain gear boxes, chain lubricaton, etc.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though.
I think you're looking at the wrong issue. What vehicle, what engine, how many miles?
Cling has nothing to do with your problem.
You have either a worn oil pump (what is oil pressure?), or your lifters need adjustment, or you have worn piston skirts, or wrist pin wear, or worn bearings, or oil filter.
I once had a Bosch oil filter go bad and my TrailBlazer knocked on startup. I now use PureOne filters exclusively.
Its a 2006 Honda Accord 2.4 4 cylinder 111,000 miles. I hope its none of those issues you have mentioned. It has a plain old Napa Pro Select filter on it now. Thats what the mechanic always uses. In about a week Ill be putting in Castrol Edge w/ Titanium and Fram Ultra oil filter. I had a used oil analysis done and the wear was good.
Quote:
Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though.
I think you're looking at the wrong issue. What vehicle, what engine, how many miles?
Cling has nothing to do with your problem.
You have either a worn oil pump (what is oil pressure?), or your lifters need adjustment, or you have worn piston skirts, or wrist pin wear, or worn bearings, or oil filter.
I once had a Bosch oil filter go bad and my TrailBlazer knocked on startup. I now use PureOne filters exclusively.
Its a 2006 Honda Accord 2.4 4 cylinder 111,000 miles. I hope its none of those issues you have mentioned. It has a plain old Napa Pro Select filter on it now. Thats what the mechanic always uses. In about a week Ill be putting in Castrol Edge w/ Titanium and Fram Ultra oil filter. I had a used oil analysis done and the wear was good.
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
Thats what the mechanic always uses.
Have your mechanic check the exhaust system for telltale signs of an exhaust manifold leak as well.
Thats what the mechanic always uses.
Have your mechanic check the exhaust system for telltale signs of an exhaust manifold leak as well.
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From my understanding,dino GRP II and synthetic GRP V/ester clings the best,while GRP III/pao has no clinging qualities.
Are you parking on an incline? Reason I ask,the only time I've ever had startup tick was when I parked on a steep hill overnight.
Are you parking on an incline? Reason I ask,the only time I've ever had startup tick was when I parked on a steep hill overnight.
The exhaust leak check idea is a good one. I was given an old car because no one could find a ticking noise and the owner was tired of the problem. It was an old ugly car. Lifters were ruled out. Some thought it was a piston or a wrist pin. When I got the car one of my dogs would not ride in it. So I started double checking everything and after everything was checked and there was nothing wrong I discovered an exhaust leak. Problem fixed. Dog happy.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though. Anyway, what are your thoughts, and can you back them up with proof?
There is no real difference in cold start wear from using a synthetic or a conventional base oil of the same viscosity (There is not even much difference with oils of different viscosities until you get down near the pour point temp figure).
All oils, even an 0W are far too thick for the first few minutes of a cold start, so what matters is the anti wear layer (Mostly a mix of Zinc and Moly additives, although Boron also helps). Most good quality oils will have a suitable add pack, although some of the major brand High Mileage oils do contain higher levels of anti wear additives, if your exhaust system is OK with them.
I never use a non OEM supplied oil filter, as it's very difficult to figure out if the design of the relief valve or media quality is as good as that demanded by the manufacturer, although some of the, "Made in Germany" ones seem to be OK, although they are nearly as expensive as OEM ones from a main Internet dealer (The walk in dealers are expensive in Switzerland).
Just wondering which would cling better to parts of an engine, conventional or synthetic (as in group III synthetic) Car is started 5+ times per day and there is almost always some ticking going on for the first few seconds, sometimes it lasts for 10 seconds. Might be the filters fault though. Anyway, what are your thoughts, and can you back them up with proof?
There is no real difference in cold start wear from using a synthetic or a conventional base oil of the same viscosity (There is not even much difference with oils of different viscosities until you get down near the pour point temp figure).
All oils, even an 0W are far too thick for the first few minutes of a cold start, so what matters is the anti wear layer (Mostly a mix of Zinc and Moly additives, although Boron also helps). Most good quality oils will have a suitable add pack, although some of the major brand High Mileage oils do contain higher levels of anti wear additives, if your exhaust system is OK with them.
I never use a non OEM supplied oil filter, as it's very difficult to figure out if the design of the relief valve or media quality is as good as that demanded by the manufacturer, although some of the, "Made in Germany" ones seem to be OK, although they are nearly as expensive as OEM ones from a main Internet dealer (The walk in dealers are expensive in Switzerland).
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Did the ticking start suddenly? Did you notice it after the most recent oil change, or has it been going on for multiple oil changes?
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
From my understanding,dino GRP II and synthetic GRP V/ester clings the best,while GRP III/pao has no clinging qualities.
Are you parking on an incline? Reason I ask,the only time I've ever had startup tick was when I parked on a steep hill overnight.
I think that your understanding is incorrect.
From my understanding,dino GRP II and synthetic GRP V/ester clings the best,while GRP III/pao has no clinging qualities.
Are you parking on an incline? Reason I ask,the only time I've ever had startup tick was when I parked on a steep hill overnight.
I think that your understanding is incorrect.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Did the ticking start suddenly? Did you notice it after the most recent oil change, or has it been going on for multiple oil changes?
It just happens randomly...usually an hour or too after the car has been heated up...its a single tick tick tick tick tick tick that goes away after about 5 seconds usually. It does not happen all the time. it does not happen when the car is cold either. thats when the piston slap happens
Did the ticking start suddenly? Did you notice it after the most recent oil change, or has it been going on for multiple oil changes?
It just happens randomly...usually an hour or too after the car has been heated up...its a single tick tick tick tick tick tick that goes away after about 5 seconds usually. It does not happen all the time. it does not happen when the car is cold either. thats when the piston slap happens
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